Ya I'd run the 93 tune but with 2-3 gallons of 100 or run your flex tune if you have that instead. Keeping things cool is key, the lower the boost the better. What track/event are you going for?

Typical setups include:
Kiggly HLA
Racefab oil pan
10an side cover catch can - vented or sealed
15w50 syn oil of choice.

The accusumps can't...really....keep up with today's speeds and corner transitions.

 

it’s literally a for fun/hpde at homestead motor speedway but I got this thing in my head about oil pressure drops and need some people to ease my worries lol. I have a fully flex tune so I can mix as much as I want but it’s my only way to lower power levels as I can’t control boost (it’s an ecu controlled boost solenoid) so that’s why I was thinkingto just run 93. As stated I have the kiggly HLA, tomei oil slicer/baffle but stock pan and 10an vented catch can and running synthetic 20w50 vr1. also added a B&m oil cooler.

 

My old hood/track. Who tuned it? I'd look at getting a "road racing tune" if the guy is reputable that still uses e85 but lowers the timing/boost to a safer but still enjoyable range. Then use your own laptop/cable to reflash before a track day. Also the BOV may become an issue more often. Esp on longer turns like 2 and 5. I had SD with a Tial and the part throttle bucking was unbearable, no matter how soft of a spring I ran. But yes on those "4 turns connected by drag strips" it can cause concern but since you can't really modulate throttle and the tires aren't slicks it ...technically....shouldn't become one yet.

 

Crispeed tuned and AG Autosports built aside from the buschur short block. So very reputable people behind the car. He locks the ecu so I can’t really do much and that’s kind of a problem.
My main concern was at what point or what does it really take for those who’ve seen the drop in oil pressure from high sustained g’s. But it sounds like I shouldn’t have an issue.
Where’d you move to, assuming you left south Florida.

 

Up to Atlanta. Much more affordable lol.

Ya Chris (I believe) is pretty good so ask him to run the two tunes and leave it unlocked for you to swap back and forth or to give you the switch, shouldn't be an issue. A lot of the time the "street" tune with him/that setup is a hair away from knock to give you the most power so it's not exactly optimized or safe for sustained 25min sessions.

 

yea I told them my intentions before they built and tuned it that I want it safe and reliable not pushing to it’s limits as it’s a weekend/occasional dragstrip and HPDE car. I also plan on short shifting really early as it’s definitely a lot of power for a road course.

you think it makes sense to dilute the e85 with 93 to maybe 40% ethanol and help keep sustained cylinder pressures and power levels down? It’s too late to go in and change adjust the tune as the event is on Sunday. I figure with more 93 in the tank it’ll bring my power level down to closer to 600wheel along with the short shifting be easier on the motor

 

you could always just plumb the compressor housing straight to the wastegate, bypassing the BCS and running wastegate pressure.

 

That's part of the problem with the idea of adding 93 to flex - it doesn't...actually... help protect anything because it's pulling timing back due to DILUTING high octane fuel with a lower octane. So you're just as close to the edge in e15 as you are with e85. In that case I'd opt for dumping in the Sunoco 98 at Homestead since it has 0 ethanol with your 93/e10. 2-3 gallons per fill up. That way you trick the timing to be lower but your octane is much higher/safer in reality.

 

ah the mod list changes things a bit.
/
Im not familiar with the circuit layout but if theres any sweeping or high speed right hand turns then youll probably have oil issues. Can you not set up an oil pressure cut table via the ecu? Assuming ecu is aftermarket,

 

You’re not really paranoid till you do this.

 

How would an "oil pressure cut" table work? I've got a warning light/buzzer in my car, but I'm not sure I'd want the car to lose power mid-corner unexpectedly. Engine saved. Bodywork destroyed!

FWIW, there is a new motoiq video on YouTube featuring Sean K's Street Mod Evo. I caught a glimpse of a Accusump in the rear footwell, as well as a RaceFab sump, although I think I also saw something somewhere on social media about him planning a dry sump.

 

For the OEM ecu it'd basically be a hobbs switch like the double pumpers use. If the oil sending pressure drops below 10 it cuts fuel which wouldn't create a "sudden" shift in weight I don't think, it's like hitting the rev limiter. For aftermarket ECU same principle just without the extra wiring and the ability to jump into a "limp mode" map depending on the severity. The other thing to consider is the quality of sensor and wiring for said oil pressure, and spares to boot.

 

Go do a WOT pull and turn the key off at 5500rpm. Its not exaclty a smooth loss of power when you go from 400whp to 0 in an instant. It would definitely upset the car. A rev limiter is on-off-on-off-on-off-on. This would be a hard cut, all off. But with it being just off of a hobbs switch, it would be pretty ineffective. you have to have it set at like 8-10psi so the car could start and idle. And, well, 10psi on track and its already doing damage...

A stand alone is needed for this to be effective, and it would need a 2d table of pressure vs rpm.

 

Ya you wouldn't want to do a full cut and kill steering, braking, and the like. With a standalone you'd almost need a DBW throttle too.

 

LOL. Might as well fire off the air bag as a coup de grace when the "failsafe" deploys.

In my car, the low oil pressure warning I get incorporates RPM and boost in determining whether to go off. I think I have it set at like 60 psi. It's through a Zeitronix ZT-2 datalogger. To me, a warning is enough to know what's going on and to adjust driving accordingly if it recurs next lap.