When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I’m about to do my first HPDE after getting my engine built. I’ve done a bunch in the past but not in a fully built car. I’m more paranoid than ever about the oil pressure drop on right handers or during any extreme G’s for that matter. The engine is a built buschur 2.0 LR with stock oil pan but I did the kiggly HLA and the tomei oil slicing baffle. Car will be running e85 and makes 765awhp. Tires are Yokohama neova and I don’t exactly plan on pushing the car too hard. I also have a haltech elite ecu with the failsafes, I.e. oil pressure turned on. So should I just go out there, have fun and stop worrying? Or since I have a built motor pushing more rpms, oil pressure and g forces be concerned?
I never saw oil pressure issues when using the stock pan/200tw tires/stock aero but I don't live near any tracks with long right handers either.
Since you've already got the failsafe stuff turned on why would it be a problem?
I’m paranoid because I can only assume the failsafe will only protect it so much. Also,the tuner put it in my head that the stock pickup has serious issues especially on high HP builds and even just under acceleration but that’s the way I am. Figured I would ask the people who track regularly what it really takes to have the oil starvation issue.
Last edited by notenoughhp; Feb 5, 2021 at 09:05 AM.
You spent all this money already on the build, you should protect your investment by upgrading the oil system. If you want to go fast you're going to have oil pressure issues with the stock system.
Much beyond 500hp and you almost require a dry sump. But for the DE car turning a few laps a baffled oil pan like Racefab works well. But yes, less then 30lbs...really less then 27lbs if you want to stay in once piece without knowing the rest of your mods.
sorry for my ignorance but why the dry sump based on power? I understand the oil starvation under high g turns due to the factory oil sump design but what else? Also let me be clear that I’m not planning to go ***** to the wall on the track. This is more just for me to have some safe legal fun on the track and get a better feel for it, not to set a lap record.
Originally Posted by Balrok
Much beyond 500hp and you almost require a dry sump. But for the DE car turning a few laps a baffled oil pan like Racefab works well. But yes, less then 30lbs...really less then 27lbs if you want to stay in once piece without knowing the rest of your mods.
sorry for my ignorance but why the dry sump based on power? I understand the oil starvation under high g turns due to the factory oil sump design but what else? Also let me be clear that I’m not planning to go ***** to the wall on the track. This is more just for me to have some safe legal fun on the track and get a better feel for it, not to set a lap record.
If you have built a balanced car, at that power level you are consistently seeing enough G's to need it. If you haven't....well you aren't going to be able to utilize the HP, your brakes will overheat, or you won't have the traction to carry speed etc.
Run the turbo on gate pressure. You don't need more than 300hp to have fun in one of these cars on a track. Go out, have fun, learn how to drive. Get an instructor if the group you're running with offers them and soak in as much as you can.
^^ all that should be a concern before oil starvation really becomes an issue. Not to mention Oil cooling, water cooling, transmission/tcase/rear mods, fluids used, shock settings, Spring settings, seat setup, seat belt setup, hans/rollbar setup, data and/or video capture you plan on running, for hells sake the TIRE or Tire pressure, cool suit in summer days, these are just examples of mods people go for before getting enough G's in a corner to worry about oil pressure. So if you can bear with us, start from the beginning and everything you've done to the car to prepare. Because if you're running that much hp and 245 all season tires I wouldn't worry as much about oil pressure as I would about grip and brake pressure.
If it's your first track day with a 700+ hp Evo then I will say it going to go exactly like my first track day with my 350 hp Evo. The first full session will be slow because you are learning the track lines and track etiquette. The second full session will be faster but you will be trying to figure out when and how hard you should brake for each turn and how to carry enough speed through the turn without going off the track. The third session is probably where you are more confident in the Evo but you will be basically driving the track in slow motion because of the lack of seat time. I don't even think oil pressure is a concern at this point.
As already mentioned, your not going to need 750hp on the track. It will actually slow you down.
Wind the car right down to wastegate pressure and learn its limits first. Not to mention i am going to assume you have no cooling upgrades and ur running factory brembos with street pads which will last half a lap at 750hp.
As long as the oil cut is set up properly in the haltech youll be okay. Just make sure he has got it set so u can cycle power to clear the fault and carry on. If u do hit an oil cut last thing u want is for it to latch on and u have to get towed in.
Ur limit is going to be ur brakes and tires so i dont think ull have too many issues with oil cut. If you were on slicks id be worried.
The only real way to be safe in an evo due to its **** oil pickup n sump design is to go dry sump. If ur serious bout track stuff u should consider it. Theres street car friendly setups where the tank mounts behind the front bumper these days
again this isn’t my first HPDE..maybe 10+ In evos, e46m3’s e92 m3’s, e60 m5 etc
jic coilovers 12k/10k
whole Cusco suite of bracing front front to rear
whiteline front and rear sway bars and end links
project mu front brake kit with b spec pads
Project mu rear rotors and b spec pada
ss lines
tre 12 plate max lock rear diff
wheels are volk ze40 with ado8r’s 255-35-18
im probably gonna run it on 93 so it’ll drop power levels down closer to 600awhp. I have no way of controlling wastegate pressure