Need motor rebuild help
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From: huntington beach
Need motor rebuild help
anyways guys my motor is almost out of my 03 EVO VIII....anyways...i'm trying to deciede what to do....i need it strong....everyone says its oiling issues....any help would be great....i know i need a crank....I'm just afraid to get it back to stock and have the motor blow again...HELP and try to save me money....i have a friend of a friend that wants to rebuild it for me and just charge me for parts..thats a really good deal...but any suggestions will be helpful...thanks...wayne
Baffled oil pan. This is a pic of Road Race Engeneering's 1g oil pan. I think a clever fab. person could modify a stock oil pan, maybe. Note the trap doors that allow oil to flow into the pickup area, but not away from it.
Something really important I found while looking at the shop manual. The minimum spec. for oil pressure at idle is about 4 psi. This makes me ask the question, how low does the oil pressure have to be before the oil warning light comes on? obviously below 4 psi if the light is not on at idle. 4 psi is not enough for an engine under load.
I was looking at the oiling system on the car to find a place to put an oil temp sensor to measure the tempreature of the oil as it comes back into the engine. This is the only oil temp that really matters. While I'm at it i'm going to wire a new warning light with a pressure sensor set at something reasonable. Even if you have an oil pressure gauge I would strongly recommend a warning light, or even a buzzer. Your oil pressure problems are going to come in hard corners where you shouldn't be looking at a gauge. I'll post a how to when this all gets done.
Something really important I found while looking at the shop manual. The minimum spec. for oil pressure at idle is about 4 psi. This makes me ask the question, how low does the oil pressure have to be before the oil warning light comes on? obviously below 4 psi if the light is not on at idle. 4 psi is not enough for an engine under load.
I was looking at the oiling system on the car to find a place to put an oil temp sensor to measure the tempreature of the oil as it comes back into the engine. This is the only oil temp that really matters. While I'm at it i'm going to wire a new warning light with a pressure sensor set at something reasonable. Even if you have an oil pressure gauge I would strongly recommend a warning light, or even a buzzer. Your oil pressure problems are going to come in hard corners where you shouldn't be looking at a gauge. I'll post a how to when this all gets done.
Last edited by Scottybob; Jun 18, 2004 at 07:54 AM.
does anyone do a dry sump for the Evo? would be nice to know.
Baffled sump will help or you could increase the size of the sump. you could also build in a "trap door". these are pretty DIY mods so wouldn't cost to much to have done by a pro.
what regs are you running to? could you go for a stroker? how about a stock crank thats nitried coated? Moses's engine is running 600bhp and thats on a stock 4G64 crank.
have a word with some of the builders on MLR (www.lancerregister.com). its comon practice to upgrade your internals over here once you get to 400bhp so see what people have done.
hope this helps Chris!
PS i will have a look around and see what i can dig up on proven bottom ends.
Baffled sump will help or you could increase the size of the sump. you could also build in a "trap door". these are pretty DIY mods so wouldn't cost to much to have done by a pro.
what regs are you running to? could you go for a stroker? how about a stock crank thats nitried coated? Moses's engine is running 600bhp and thats on a stock 4G64 crank.
have a word with some of the builders on MLR (www.lancerregister.com). its comon practice to upgrade your internals over here once you get to 400bhp so see what people have done.
hope this helps Chris!
PS i will have a look around and see what i can dig up on proven bottom ends.
http://www.bjscylinderhead.com/
http://www.buschurracing.com
Both shops put out the best quality shortblocks. Although both will cost you upwards of $3,000 for the block. If you add a fully built head you'll be in for $5,000, but you will be able to rev to 9K and handle 30Psi everyday.
http://www.buschurracing.com
Both shops put out the best quality shortblocks. Although both will cost you upwards of $3,000 for the block. If you add a fully built head you'll be in for $5,000, but you will be able to rev to 9K and handle 30Psi everyday.
does anyoone do an uprated oil pump? higher presure and flow. Scottybob, that looks very good, whats the price? dont forget it doesnt matter how well built the motor is if it doesn't get oil it will still go bang! no news on the dry sump?
thanks Chris.
thanks Chris.
The oil pan I posted is a 1gen DSM part. I have not seen anything for the EVO. The pic was to show what I ment by baffled oil pan.
Personally I think a dry sump would be way too much trouble and expense. It would have to be pretty much all custom fab. That means an oil pan, and some way to mount the pump. The pump would need a custom crank pulley to drive it, because you would want to have a toothed belt (V belt or serpintine belts would not be reliable enough IMHO) you would have to redo the entire accessory drive belt system. Plus finding room for the oil tank and all the associated plumbing.
Put some baffles in the oil pan OR use an accusump. The accusump is a pressureized oil tank that takes over if the oil pump is sucking (edit) air.
accusump info
If you like to go to the track I think one of the first things you need to do is wire a good oil pressure warning light.
Personally I think a dry sump would be way too much trouble and expense. It would have to be pretty much all custom fab. That means an oil pan, and some way to mount the pump. The pump would need a custom crank pulley to drive it, because you would want to have a toothed belt (V belt or serpintine belts would not be reliable enough IMHO) you would have to redo the entire accessory drive belt system. Plus finding room for the oil tank and all the associated plumbing.
Put some baffles in the oil pan OR use an accusump. The accusump is a pressureized oil tank that takes over if the oil pump is sucking (edit) air.
accusump info
If you like to go to the track I think one of the first things you need to do is wire a good oil pressure warning light.
Last edited by Scottybob; Jun 21, 2004 at 08:30 AM.
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I would defiantly agree with the warning light. As this thread shows low oil pressure can lead to serous damage. I have seen the accusump used a lot over here. Lots use it in Lotus 7 type cars that are running bike engines as it’s much cheaper than a dry sump. There is one thing to be said about them though, they are not the be all and end all. I have read reports about testers seeing oil warning lights come on even with these things fitted! This was on a small block V8 in an Ultima GTR that was probably pulling near to 1g around a long, fast corner! They say the biggest problem is under braking. This is where the highest G is pulled and often where the engine can be revved high on the down shift!
Chris.
Chris.
I agree with the comments about ensuring proper oiling and a good warning light. I'd like to add another quick thought, too. Is your friend an experienced high performance engine builder? I don't want to discount your friend, but getting the experience of a proven race engine builder who has worked on the 4G63 or the Evo in particular could pay for itself in avoiding "trial and error" mistakes; especially if you plan to really push the car.
Originally Posted by Scottybob
Something really important I found while looking at the shop manual. The minimum spec. for oil pressure at idle is about 4 psi. This makes me ask the question, how low does the oil pressure have to be before the oil warning light comes on? obviously below 4 psi if the light is not on at idle. 4 psi is not enough for an engine under load.
As for the engine, I think RRE would be a good shop for engine work. MikeW of RRE tends to post on EvoM from time to time as well. Maybe he can chime in. If your friend has a lot of experience that may not be a bad idea, but since you've had issues with the motor up to this point, you may want to have an experienced shop take a look at things and see what can be done to prevent further oil issues.
Good luck,
Mark
what about an accusump? for those unfamiliar, it's basically a secondary oil pump that engages under high Gs.
btw, those trap doors in the oil pan above would be properly called a "windage tray".
btw, those trap doors in the oil pan above would be properly called a "windage tray".
all an accuasump is (to my knowladge), is an cylinder/piston with a spring in it (may be compressed gas). when the engine is running mormaly, it will "charge" the acuuasump up with oil. then, when the oil pump cant pull any more oil from the sump (under high g corners or under heavy braking), and the presure drops, the accuasump "disscharges" its contence, thus pumping say 2 piants of oil around the system. the problem with them is that they have a limited volume. you could make them bigger, but you would have to top your oil up once they were "charged" so they would be a little impratical!
Chris.
PS may be wrong, please correct me if i am!
Chris.
PS may be wrong, please correct me if i am!
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