Guys I drive a Evo X. I need some help or suggestions. I paid a fortune to have my brakes changed and rotors surfaced..But after a few thousand miles My wheel shakes like crazy when I am braking. I have approx 31 k miles on my evo.. Any suggestions on where can I buy new drilled and slotted rotors...not too expensive..for front and rear..

Thanks

Choko

 

you don't want drilled. Those crack.

GSR or MR?

Your main choices for the X are Girodisc and RacingBrake. Check the vendor forums here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-handling-288/

Brakes are SUPER easy to change on the X. You should be able to do it yourself.

What pads do you have in there now? What are your driving/braking habits (ie. lots of start and stop braking, riding the brakes, etc.)? Take and post a picture of your rotors (I want to see how bad the pad transfer is).

Mine did this at 12k (I turned the rotors) then again at 20k (I replaced the rotors). Now they do it when the car's really dirty. My pads also required a bit of grinder work because they wer binding up in the caliper.

 

I drive an MR..Brakes are OEM from Don herring..I drive my evo daily driving no racing unless..its someone with a honda civic ;-) .. I will take pictures ...I just had my rears turned..its the front ones that are paining me..What do you say about this company..rotorwork.com
They look good..Would you recomend them..

Thanks alot goofy..will try get some pics on by today..

So you would not suggest drilled and slotted correct..

 

Are you sure it isn't pad transfer? I frankly don't see the MR 2-piece rotors warping unless you're doing some hardcore track driving or daily-drive on race pads. Its possible the machinist F'ed them up while turning them too. Can you buy a new friction ring from Mitsu?

As far as drilling and slotting goes, slotting is ok but drilling is recommended against. For the majority of drivers though the slots will do nothing but wear the pads faster.

 

The MR 2 piece don't have replaceable rings. It's a whole shebang thing. Pretty lame IMO.

I agree that I think there's pad transfer (which is why I asked about the driving habits of the OP).

It could also be the lugs being torqued incorrectly leading to warping rotors.

re: rotorwork.com... um, those just look pretty generic. Personally I'd not use them (but I'm running the pricey girodisc 2 piece ones).

 

That's ridiculous! Fail Mitsu.

To the OP, brakes are not something you want to skimp on, your life and the lives of others depends on it.

 

take it back to whoever did your brakes and tell them to fix and dont take no for an answer

 

Thank you guys for all your help.. I am sorry to say this I took this to Don herring in Dallas to get my fronts fixed. I paid a fortune like I said. It's barely been 2000 miles after my rotors got turned and replaced brakes with OEM...So I will be taking it there before I get new rotors..thinking of the Giro's

 

Something is definitely wrong and I'm sure the guys on Don Herring will get you taken care of.

 

I agree with the theory of uneven pad material transfer. <Edit> In your case (street driving), you won't be able to see this uneven buildup. It's microscopic, so your rotors will look fine. <End Edit> There is no way a 31k mile Evo, driven gently, is going to wear out a set of rotors. I've had the same issue on my Evo while driving many miles on the street, because I brake so easy.

Here's what should fix it. One corner at a time, remove the wheel (jack up and use jack stands), and use #80 grit sand paper to scuff the rotor surface (by hand) to rough the surface on both sides. <Edit> Don't get overly aggressive with sanding. You just want to rough the surface by hand, so you can see the light scratches you're putting in the rotor surface. Don't use power tools for this. <End Edit> I had this recommended by one of the major brake pad manufacturers (perhaps Stoptech or Carbotech) several years ago and it worked. Rotate the rotor so you get the entire surface. I'm not sure, but you may need to lift both front wheels off the ground to rotate it fully. After doing this on all four rotors, with the wheels reinstalled , re-bed the pads on the rotors.

I use the following rotor bedding procedure (provided by Stoptech):
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
I read my Carbotech procedure and it was a bit different, so I'm sure I used the Stoptech procedure.
Make certain you find an area where you can reach 60mph safely without much traffic. Braking from 60mph is not safe if you have other drivers around. I actually used a fairly deserted Interstate frontage road north of Denton. The current Stoptech procedure says to do 10 back-to-back stops from 60mph to 10 mph, drive around to cool the brakes(about 10-15 minutes), then repeat the 10 stops from 60 to 10, and once again drive around to cool the brakes.

The procedure I use, is slightly different in that I do 8 rather than 10 back-to-back stops for each of the two braking sets. After the last drive around cool down, I carefully drive home (hopefully it's not too far and uses minimal braking), park in the garage and let the rotors totally cool with the car in gear and no emergency brake on (overnight is good).

This should fix your problem. Give me a call if you have any questions (469-323-7278).
MORE GOOD INFO:
The Stoptech website contains many good technical white papers about braking technology. The one that stood out when I read it several years ago, was by legend Carroll Smith. He says warped rotors is a myth, propagated by lack of knowledge. Specifically his paper says the following and you can trust it:

Myth # 1 – BRAKE JUDDER AND VIBRATION IS CAUSED BY DISCS THAT HAVE BEEN WARPED FROM EXESSIVE HEAT.
The term "warped brake disc" has been in common use in motor racing for decades. When a driver reports a vibration under hard braking, inexperienced crews, after checking for (and not finding) cracks often attribute the vibration to "warped discs". They then measure the disc thickness in various places, find significant variation and the diagnosis is cast in stone.

When disc brakes for high performance cars arrived on the scene we began to hear of "warped brake discs" on road going cars, with the same analyses and diagnoses. Typically, the discs are resurfaced to cure the problem and, equally typically, after a relatively short time the roughness or vibration comes back. Brake roughness has caused a significant number of cars to be bought back by their manufacturers under the "lemon laws". This has been going on for decades now - and, like most things that we have cast in stone, the diagnoses are wrong.

With one qualifier, presuming that the hub and wheel flange are flat and in good condition and that the wheel bolts or hat mounting hardware is in good condition, installed correctly and tightened uniformly and in the correct order to the recommended torque specification, in more than 40 years of professional racing, including the Shelby/Ford GT 40s – one of the most intense brake development program in history - I have never seen a warped brake disc. I have seen lots of cracked discs, (FIGURE 1) discs that had turned into shallow cones at operating temperature because they were mounted rigidly to their attachment bells or top hats, (FIGURE 2) a few where the friction surface had collapsed in the area between straight radial interior vanes, (FIGURE 3) and an untold number of discs with pad material unevenly deposited on the friction surfaces - sometimes visible and more often not. (FIGURE 4)

In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures.

<<END OF CARROLL SMITH TEXT>>

Good luck,
Mark

 

On the X you have to jack up all 4 corners to turn one by hand. I found this out wen rolling fenders.

 

Thanks guys..Your info has helped me out alot.

What is your take on the one piece rotors. I know X MR comes with 2 piece. will they make a difference if I can get the one piece GIRO's. Goofy may be you know since you have Giros on there..

 

driving habits change will help you out lots. when you brake hard ( or even semi hard), and come to a stop, allow the car to roll slightly forward again. this will put the pad on a different part of the rotor and reduce the heat. and if able release foot off brake pedal. this will help to minimize the hot spotting that happens when you leave the brakes depressed at a stop after they get really hot.

 

I replied to your email, but figured I'd reply here too for the benefit of everyone else:

The 1 piece will work fine on the MR. They just won't be as light so you might notice a slight decrease in acceleration performance (braking likely will be better honestly).

 

Make 2 or 3 hard stops at 80-90 mph, drive for a bit to cool 'em down and see if it gets better.
When I get a buildup of pad material, this always seems to work.