Evo X o2 housings/downpipes
#17
You guys are missing the entire point, yes there are "cheap" O2/downpipe alternatives, and they are all welded which opens the door for failure due to heat and possible bad welds. Save yourself the headache and get the AMS O2/Downpipe. There are too many documented failures for welded O2/downpipes to not get the AMS pipe.
#18
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Kracka,
I'm gonna go out on a limb and say the welded pipes will probably work for the 8s and 9s due to the turbo being up front in the engine bay. Maybe the 8s and 9s receive for airflow across the downpipe reducing the heat load.
As for the X, everything is crammed in the back of the engine bay, possibly reducing air flow, raising temps, which could play apart in the broken welds.
I'm gonna go out on a limb and say the welded pipes will probably work for the 8s and 9s due to the turbo being up front in the engine bay. Maybe the 8s and 9s receive for airflow across the downpipe reducing the heat load.
As for the X, everything is crammed in the back of the engine bay, possibly reducing air flow, raising temps, which could play apart in the broken welds.
#19
I don't believe that. No matter how you cut it, its underneath the exhaust manifold attached to the turbo. I even have mine behind a heatshield holding in even more heat. The only potential airflow its getting its coming from the radiator, but when you think about it the X has the scoop designed to cool the turbo area and my guess is the undertray was designed in conjunction with that scoop to help draw air through that area. I understand that Goofy was having issues with that one certain brand, but have there been any reported failures of Megan's? MAP's? ETS'? Or are you just generally classifying things as either AMS or junk?
#20
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Hey guess what! The AMS downpipe has welds on it too
I've had a cheap megan/buschur o2 housing (ceramic coated) on my evo8 for 2.5 years now, I was skeptical at first too, but at the time I put it on, people were saying how no one were having issues, and now 30+ months later I have yet to hear of one failing, or even cracking.
I call BS. Links to said failures please.
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I've had a cheap megan/buschur o2 housing (ceramic coated) on my evo8 for 2.5 years now, I was skeptical at first too, but at the time I put it on, people were saying how no one were having issues, and now 30+ months later I have yet to hear of one failing, or even cracking.
I call BS. Links to said failures please.
#21
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I've broken 2 of the UR pipe (both times were at or soon after a track day). Another guy on here broke his UR o2 housing. Another guy here in Dallas broke the T1R pipe (welded). A few UR test pipes have split or fallen apart as well. ETS has had at least one of their X welded manifolds crack.
The pipe listed above is a much poorer design than the AMS pipe and I guarantee it will make less power simply due to the size of it's outputs from the turbo. The AMS pipe you can put your kid's head in it. That welded one is much, much smaller.
The biggest issue here is that an o2 housing on an 8/9 is about a 6" piece. It has the downpipe bolted onto it and gets some flexibility due to that. The pieces for the X are almost 3' long and have very little support until you get to the hanger for the cat/test pipe. I personally believe that this is the cause of most of the welded pieces -- the exhaust is able to move way too much.
For most people a welded o2 housing for the X will likely be just fine. But I can attest to the fact that ANY cost savings goes right out the window when you have to replace a broken one. Even with the part replaced under warranty (UR replaced both mine) it's a cast iron ***** to replace them and you have, what I say would be a 75% chance of breaking or stripping a bolt which means you then get to pull the hotside of the turbo off (which makes replacing the o2 housing look like a walk in the park).
ETA: here are the pictures from both instances of my o2 housing cracking: http://mpghead.com/evo/o2/
ETA2: UR has also redesigned their o2 housing to look more like the AMS housing (i.e. where the flex section is). This might impact it's ability to handle stress: http://mpghead.com/evo/urhousing.jpg
The pipe listed above is a much poorer design than the AMS pipe and I guarantee it will make less power simply due to the size of it's outputs from the turbo. The AMS pipe you can put your kid's head in it. That welded one is much, much smaller.
The biggest issue here is that an o2 housing on an 8/9 is about a 6" piece. It has the downpipe bolted onto it and gets some flexibility due to that. The pieces for the X are almost 3' long and have very little support until you get to the hanger for the cat/test pipe. I personally believe that this is the cause of most of the welded pieces -- the exhaust is able to move way too much.
For most people a welded o2 housing for the X will likely be just fine. But I can attest to the fact that ANY cost savings goes right out the window when you have to replace a broken one. Even with the part replaced under warranty (UR replaced both mine) it's a cast iron ***** to replace them and you have, what I say would be a 75% chance of breaking or stripping a bolt which means you then get to pull the hotside of the turbo off (which makes replacing the o2 housing look like a walk in the park).
ETA: here are the pictures from both instances of my o2 housing cracking: http://mpghead.com/evo/o2/
ETA2: UR has also redesigned their o2 housing to look more like the AMS housing (i.e. where the flex section is). This might impact it's ability to handle stress: http://mpghead.com/evo/urhousing.jpg
Last edited by goofygrin; Feb 25, 2010 at 07:40 AM.
#22
Thanks for the pics. I wonder if UR is using a low quality steel (maybe too thin?) or if their welds aren't fully penetrating?
Manifolds and o2 housings are two totally separate issues; even the nicest welded tubular manifolds crack. I'd personally never run anything but a cast exhaust manifold since it is them carrying the weight of the turbo, o2 housing, and downpipe.
Last edited by Kracka; Feb 25, 2010 at 07:59 AM.
#23
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Honestly the UR piece came out fully 9 months before the AMS one and I wanted it THEN (I got one of the first ones). I'm not sure that if I had to do it again if I'd have waited or not though.
#26
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Great pics, sorry the UR one cracked. I'd honestly trust the megan one, it is only the o2 section so it is less likely (imo) to see the same stress some of the other units see. Also, Megan != UR, maybe MR's welds or pipe stock is better? Who knows. That UR has a LOT of welds on it though, I honestly wouldn't trust it either (but they do make power!).
#27
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I'm twice burned so twice shy. I'll keep pushing people to the AMS one (until it fails). And like I said, most people would likely be fine with the welded ones... but I personally can't recommend them any more. Given the amount of broken welds on all UR products I can't recommend them at all any more.
#29
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I called UR few days ago and asked them about this problem (Cracking) They said the new ones doesn't have this problem anymore, Actually i won't trust them and I'll buy AMS DP although i live in Canada
#30
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As with any part it is best to research first and get reviews on specific parts before purchasing. my o2 housing is actually the buschur which is basically an ebay copy of megan. and as kevin pointed out for the 8 & 9s it would be wise to make the merge hole a bit larger. for the 10s i think the major advantage of the ams o2 downpipe is that its a cast part which helps keep the temps in and in turn helps with under hood temps.