Evo X o2 housings/downpipes
#1
Evo X o2 housings/downpipes
Since there was some talk of X o2 housings and downpipes at the last meet I started looking into them a bit and figured I might as well post my findings.
The Megan o2 housing seems to be a great value, $195 retail so I figure $150 from an online retailer sounds about right, then maybe an additional $50-75 for ceramic coating. I saw Buschur is selling a ceramic coated one for $280 but that seems a bit high to me. Couple that with a Megan or Ultimate Racing downpipe for ~$160 and you have a pretty damn nice setup; especial when ceramic coated.
Otherwise, as far as the o2 elim downpipes are concerned the MAP for $399 or Ultimate Racing for $370 seem to both be a great value. The AMS one for $460 isn't bad either.
Overall seems cheaper to buy the o2 housing and downpipe separately though, so might as well take that difference and put it towards ceramic coating. The advantage of paying more for the o2 elim dp's though would be less weight, less chance of an exhaust leak, and slightly less turbulence since there is one less connection.
The Megan o2 housing seems to be a great value, $195 retail so I figure $150 from an online retailer sounds about right, then maybe an additional $50-75 for ceramic coating. I saw Buschur is selling a ceramic coated one for $280 but that seems a bit high to me. Couple that with a Megan or Ultimate Racing downpipe for ~$160 and you have a pretty damn nice setup; especial when ceramic coated.
Otherwise, as far as the o2 elim downpipes are concerned the MAP for $399 or Ultimate Racing for $370 seem to both be a great value. The AMS one for $460 isn't bad either.
Overall seems cheaper to buy the o2 housing and downpipe separately though, so might as well take that difference and put it towards ceramic coating. The advantage of paying more for the o2 elim dp's though would be less weight, less chance of an exhaust leak, and slightly less turbulence since there is one less connection.
#4
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I saw the Megan up close a few weeks ago and it seems like nothing more than a shiny OEM look alike. Considering the amount of work, time, and effort it takes to change this piece on the X as opposed to the ease of installing one on an VIII or IX, it has zero value in my opinion. Try to look at one in person before making any decisions and compare it right next to a stock one. I would be surprised if you were still interested after doing so
#5
I thought it looked nice in pictures at least, and the Megan is still my favorite choice for the 8/9. Maybe someone local should buy one so I can see it and help install it
Looking like stock is fine as long as it flows more air and the design seems to be pretty decent from what I can tell.
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#6
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we've come to the conclusion that the ultimate racing stuff is junk. welds breaking is the norm. just ask sean how fun it is to replace it ![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
haven't installed anything megan for the X yet. we've done a bunch of the ams cast o2/downpipe combos though, its super heavy, but a very nice piece.
as for the 8/9 the MAP one piece downpipe/o2 housing combo is cool, but a major PITA to work around. if you ever need to do any work where the downpipe has to come off, you need to take the who o2 out too. a simple V band would remedy this easily and not disturb flow.
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haven't installed anything megan for the X yet. we've done a bunch of the ams cast o2/downpipe combos though, its super heavy, but a very nice piece.
as for the 8/9 the MAP one piece downpipe/o2 housing combo is cool, but a major PITA to work around. if you ever need to do any work where the downpipe has to come off, you need to take the who o2 out too. a simple V band would remedy this easily and not disturb flow.
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#8
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I'll repeat what Kevin said. The o2 housing on the X is the ONE thing you only want to do ONE time.
Having pulled it 4 times now (initial install, clutch, 1st crack, 2nd crack), I'm not super thrilled with the thought of swapping it again so I went with the heavier AMS piece this time.
The UR piece has been reworked since I purchased it (bigger flex section in a different place), so I'd say that those likely are less likely to crack. HOWEVER given the temperature changes and high heat seen by this piece, I'd be wary of any welded elements on it... especially poor quality welds like the UR welds.
My UR is not the only one to crack. Another guy on here's one cracked and it was a T1R I think (another welded one). He replaced his with an AMS one as well. SilverEvoX's UR test pipe de-welded itself, as did a couple other peoples...
The AMS is $$, but I think it is worth the extra initial investment.
Cobb is supposedly in the works with one too FWIW.
Having pulled it 4 times now (initial install, clutch, 1st crack, 2nd crack), I'm not super thrilled with the thought of swapping it again so I went with the heavier AMS piece this time.
The UR piece has been reworked since I purchased it (bigger flex section in a different place), so I'd say that those likely are less likely to crack. HOWEVER given the temperature changes and high heat seen by this piece, I'd be wary of any welded elements on it... especially poor quality welds like the UR welds.
My UR is not the only one to crack. Another guy on here's one cracked and it was a T1R I think (another welded one). He replaced his with an AMS one as well. SilverEvoX's UR test pipe de-welded itself, as did a couple other peoples...
The AMS is $$, but I think it is worth the extra initial investment.
Cobb is supposedly in the works with one too FWIW.
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i would agree for the most part. i always take a grinder and increase the size of the wastegate port where it merges with the turbine outlet stream. its often times to small and can cause large boost creep issues. and i always run a tap through all the holes as they are nortorous for having burrs in the threads which as many people know means you wont get the bolts out. a resonated test pipe isn't hard to make though, so its really hard to mess that up.
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You guys are missing the entire point, yes there are "cheap" O2/downpipe alternatives, and they are all welded which opens the door for failure due to heat and possible bad welds. Save yourself the headache and get the AMS O2/Downpipe. There are too many documented failures for welded O2/downpipes to not get the AMS pipe.