im going to have to look into that.

plenty of people have had great luck with the AMS ring with the ACT clutches so far so I'm not in a huge hurry. Hopefully the AMS one will be out before mine craps out.

we have the whiteline bars in stock, its easy to change the front out with the tranny out of the car if you want to do that as well.


also, the whiteline bump steer correction kit helps a lot. the difference in snap oversteer for joshs TTAX was huge. went from being a consistant 1-2 seconds behind the lead vette to dead even with him, with only changing the steering rack rod ends.

the control arm ball joints are also a big help for lowered cars. the camber curves get very non linear under deep compression and the ball joints at least keep you in the linear range longer. Jose, we can measure your camber curve and bump steer curve while its being worked on. i'm sure you would love some graphs of suspension travel

KevinD, go ahead and plan on installing the front sway if it isn't much more time/work. I don't want to go back in later, the next time it is on a lift it should be for a new motor (NOT wishful thinking BTW). I will let you know the initial setting I want on it Monday when I stop by. I will do the rear and end links and such later when I have time.

What is involved in measuring the curves? I just recently had an alignment so everything should be close to those settings, I have only done about 30 laps since getting it dialed in.

FYI I have both my front and rear sways set to medium. I think most people autocrossing liked soft front and stiffest setting in the rear, so I may try that for next season. I'm still on stock endlinks right now but plan on replacing them sometime next year. Also I got an alignment afterwards just to be on the safe side.

Kevin, Can you PM me price for bump steer and roll center kit. Might as well add that in if it's not too expensive.

Yeah, it depends on their setup. What works for me won't necessarily work as well for you, etc. I am on 12k/10k coilovers and you are on Eibachs. I may need a bit more torsion to compress or overcome the spring rate...it is all trial and error. But I intend to play around a bit and find what suits me. We (Me, Walter, Brett, Bill and anyone else who wants to join) are talking about renting Mineral Wells in the coming months to do some test-n-tune stuff.

I have to get an alignment anyhow, I am going to drop the car another 1/2" since I have the camber maxed out. The passenger side is sitting lower due to all the counter-clockwise autocrosses and normal spring/strut wear.

Actually after reading some reviews and comments I am going to go with the Hotchkis sway bar setup. That is what I originally wanted to go with but since EvoD had a Whiteline setting around I figured whatever get the car back running quicker. I may as well wait a day or two more and get what I want.

Sounds like the rail selector.You can inspect it without removing the tranny.

It was the CMC.

Hope the ams ring hold for you, I've seen reports of them not really doing any good though. Unfortunately the magnus is the only real way currently to fix the problem, and as you said, it requires alot of work. I had it done, but it was easier for my b/c my engine wasn't in the car at the time :-)

Yeah I hear you, I would really like to do the Magnus but I am going out on a limb already with everything else I shouldn't be having done right now. I hear I think AMS is working on a replacement CMC, so I guess we will see. I am still amazed at how SSP cannot seem to fabricate a working CMC replacements after 3 revisions. I wanted their solution but I hear there are bleeding and moving target issues with their product.

As a side note, I wonder if many of the '10 X's have had stock CMC issues. I heard from MRT and a few other sites that Mitsubishi had a recall on CMC's and the current OEM one has had a modification made to it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4TP3Z1kn-ik

Back to the front sway and RCC kit discussion....

I had both done at the same time and it made a big difference. For one, the car stays nice and flat through the turns. Second, understeer is far less than what it used to be so I have more turning grip.

I will just have the front sway done for now, I already had confirmed I don't need the RCK. I don't have any problems with bump steer even out at Mineral Ring.

Richard just updated me, CMC did not fail! The clip holding the clutch line in came out and the hose popped off.

So what's the fix? Going to upgrade anyway or just reconnect the hose and be done with it?

Upgrade everything anyways, I already paid for the parts...