I was getting my car tuned at COBB friday and ran into a problem. From around 4500-5200 RPM, somewhere in that range, the knock would drop from 100, down to 0 instantly, and it was only at WOT in that range. They said they've never seen anything like that before, because it would cut boost and dump a lot of fuel at the same time, which is weird. They said first step would be a new knock sensor, then we could go from there. I was thinking maybe a ground issue, which is 90% of electrical problems anyways, but it was consistently happening at the RPM range.

Any thoughts?

 

Strange, but my honest opinion is to listen to whatever Calvin and Chris suggest since I'm sure they've encountered just about every issue you can imagine.

 

Strange it is, but I will be buying a new knock sensor soon, any ideas on where to get one, besides dealer? I know COBB sales them for like $195.

 

Is this what you need??

http://www.mitsubishiparts.net/catal...ction=690#1823

Edit: Nevermind. I see you have a 2009 Ralliart.

 

$152 from Mitsuparts...

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/200...gramCallOut=10

I'd call Don's part guy and see if he'll match the price for you.

 

Don Herring with the NTEC club discount is generally the same or cheaper, especially after you factor in MitsuPart's insane shipping charges.

 

From Don Herring's online parts site: http://www.trademotion.com/parts/200...icleid=1442155

 

That's exactly what you want in a high knock situation. The added fuel is needed to richen up the mixture and cool the cylinder off.

When you say "drop from 100, down to 0," do you mean it would go from a zero count at 4500rpm, and then have a 100 count, and then zero count? That sounds like they could possibly need to mess with the knock multiplier tables if you have enough modifications done. If you are close to stock in parts, such as the motor, turbo, boost pressure, etc, then it definitely sounds like the knock sensor. Just my $0.02.

-Acree

 

I'm just going by what I was told at COBB. I'm assuming it went from 100 at 4500RPM to 0, because he toldme the knock was always supposed to be 100.

 

Are you driving around a broken car instead of getting it fixed?

 

Absolutely not, hasn't been driven since.

 

Also throwing a code now, saying "knock sensor 1 circuit low". Ill confirm actual code tomorrow.

 

Why haven't you purchased a new knock sensor yet? Stop driving the car until you fix it before you damage something that isn't as easily replaceable.