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Sorry, but it just doesn't feel like Thanksgiving is all that special this year, seeing as how it's been a generous helping of turkey EVERY Sunday this fall!!
Happy Thanksgiving
Happy Thanksgiving
Sup guys,
Howdy...My name is Dan..I own a 05 Saturn Ion Redline...I'm the guy that tunes all the cobalts and such. I'll be out Sat for sure...Denny talked me into it. BTW my clutch is ultra ghey so only highway pulls for me lol...Comeon...its just a saturn lol
Dan
Howdy...My name is Dan..I own a 05 Saturn Ion Redline...I'm the guy that tunes all the cobalts and such. I'll be out Sat for sure...Denny talked me into it. BTW my clutch is ultra ghey so only highway pulls for me lol...Comeon...its just a saturn lol

Dan
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Originally Posted by dennyt4
Has anyone installed an Innovative LC-1 wideband? I'm looking for tips - I want to install it tomorrow.
Thanks
Thanks
I have.
Mounting the sensor:
The sensor cable isn’t too long, so pick your position carefully. I put mine right behind the LCA. I zip tied the LC1 (it has provisions to do so) to my power steering line. I used a 7/8” step bit to go through the heat shield and then into the DP. I removed the heat shield and MIG welded the bung into the DP at this point.
Routing wires:
Plug the one 1/8” phono jack with the terminator supplied. Run the power/input/output cable past the firewall. I ran it through the OEM supplied grommet in front of the glovebox. Wire as necessary for your application. I wired up the calibration switch and status LED as specified by innovative. I drilled two small holes in the upper lip of my glovebox for switch and LED placement. Wire power/ground as necessary. I grounded off the ecu screws. Follow directions for separate power and signal grounds to avoid a grounding loop issue. I mounted a NAPA fuse box in the plastic case that houses the dimmer switch. I supply power to this fuse box from the “radio” fuse on the OEM fuse box marked 10 or 15A I forget. I cut up a mini fuse and soldered it to the end of a 12 guage wire to feed power to the fuse block to avoid hacking into anything. This fuse box is how I supply fused circuts to my boost guage and LC1. I then looped up the 1/8 phono jack for LC1 communications and left 4” dangling in the glove box. I then simply plug in my serial to USB cable I got at best buy to talk to the laptop for datalogging. Easy sheezy super clean OEM install. Plenty of heatshrink to make even the Mitsubishi engineers jellous.
Last edited by dan l; Nov 24, 2006 at 03:52 PM.
I actually had the bung welded in by the mechanic before he put the exhaust back in, so I should be good there, but everything else looks good.
Thanks!!!
Thanks!!!
Originally Posted by dan l
I have.
Mounting the sensor:
The sensor cable isn’t too long, so pick your position carefully. I put mine right behind the LCA. I zip tied the LC1 (it has provisions to do so) to my power steering line. I used a 7/8” step bit to go through the heat shield and then into the DP. I removed the heat shield and MIG welded the bung into the DP at this point.
Routing wires:
Plug the one 1/8” phono jack with the terminator supplied. Run the power/input/output cable past the firewall. I ran it through the OEM supplied grommet in front of the glovebox. Wire as necessary for your application. I wired up the calibration switch and status LED as specified by innovative. I drilled two small holes in the upper lip of my glovebox for switch and LED placement. Wire power/ground as necessary. I grounded off the ecu screws. Follow directions for separate power and signal grounds to avoid a grounding loop issue. I mounted a NAPA fuse box in the plastic case that houses the dimmer switch. I supply power to this fuse box from the “radio” fuse on the OEM fuse box marked 10 or 15A I forget. I cut up a mini fuse and soldered it to the end of a 12 guage wire to feed power to the fuse block to avoid hacking into anything. This fuse box is how I supply fused circuts to my boost guage and LC1. I then looped up the 1/8 phono jack for LC1 communications and left 4” dangling in the glove box. I then simply plug in my serial to USB cable I got at best buy to talk to the laptop for datalogging. Easy sheezy super clean OEM install. Plenty of heatshrink to make even the Mitsubishi engineers jellous.
Mounting the sensor:
The sensor cable isn’t too long, so pick your position carefully. I put mine right behind the LCA. I zip tied the LC1 (it has provisions to do so) to my power steering line. I used a 7/8” step bit to go through the heat shield and then into the DP. I removed the heat shield and MIG welded the bung into the DP at this point.
Routing wires:
Plug the one 1/8” phono jack with the terminator supplied. Run the power/input/output cable past the firewall. I ran it through the OEM supplied grommet in front of the glovebox. Wire as necessary for your application. I wired up the calibration switch and status LED as specified by innovative. I drilled two small holes in the upper lip of my glovebox for switch and LED placement. Wire power/ground as necessary. I grounded off the ecu screws. Follow directions for separate power and signal grounds to avoid a grounding loop issue. I mounted a NAPA fuse box in the plastic case that houses the dimmer switch. I supply power to this fuse box from the “radio” fuse on the OEM fuse box marked 10 or 15A I forget. I cut up a mini fuse and soldered it to the end of a 12 guage wire to feed power to the fuse block to avoid hacking into anything. This fuse box is how I supply fused circuts to my boost guage and LC1. I then looped up the 1/8 phono jack for LC1 communications and left 4” dangling in the glove box. I then simply plug in my serial to USB cable I got at best buy to talk to the laptop for datalogging. Easy sheezy super clean OEM install. Plenty of heatshrink to make even the Mitsubishi engineers jellous.
Last edited by dennyt4; Nov 24, 2006 at 06:42 PM.


