im obviously not an expert but i tend to agree. plus 600+ whp is pretty absurd for a DD. i tend to think 400/450 is mroe than enough for a pump gas DD.

 

if i had a buschur build with a built head and reinforced internals, i would have no issue pushing it to 600+ on pump.


granted i would be more than happy enough with 400+ on a stock block.

 

exactly...it might still be "safe" but not nearly as safe as a car running 8 lbs less boost. the EGT at that much boost on pump gas is way higher. the whole point of pump gas is to have something not running on the ragged edge, and can be fill 'n' go, worry free - where one bad tank of gas won't cost you 10k.

 

yet you have an AMS built car with all AMS components, tuned by AMS only pushing 450 because AMS doesn't think it's safe enough....just food for thought.

 

i guess it depends what you call ragged edge. EGT's shouldn't be that much of a problem on a daily driver / drag car. and 30lbs isn't 30lbs when you're not boosting. my car rarely sees 22psi. maybe a couple times a week for a very short time. its just not practical.

 

weaksauce

 

also a valid point...but then again, maybe the 30 psi can't withold to constant long-term boosting. I've done a pull up to 170 on 22 psi pump gas. My car still runs strong and has no issues - would your motor still be intact after a stunt like that at 30psi? I'd think not.

Anyway...I think I'll be going alky this summer...I currently have the autometer dual gauge pod with wideband and boost gauge. How would you guys mount the DDS3 unit from the aquamist kit? I don't want to mount it on the pillar and not a fan of the 3 pod center dash kit. Do I have any other options? I thought of going to zeitronix to consolidate things but not sure if that would help either...

 

Was nice meeting most of you guys and nice seeing you again Dex.

The Scooby group ended up with only 5 people. I think we should make it an Evo Scooby meet during the winter since our groups get smaller when the weather is colder.

 

i started writing a longer response and browser crashed GRRRRR

bottom line is if a tune doesn't knock, you motor should last a while, or at least until you find the limit of some stock internal. i personally would always push boost for all it's worth (advancing timing requires flame propagation to start earlier and earlier, causing pressure spikes since the overlap between the time when the kernel ignites and the piston is still traveling upwards is increased. higher boost doesn't have the same effect.

the only problem with higher boost levels is that the ecu doesn't have the ability to lower them if you get a tank of bad gas. it can pull timing, so that may be enough.

to make a given amount of torque at the wheel, you need a certain cylinder pressure. it's simple. how you get there is another story.

that being said, i ran in excess of 25 psi on my subaru for a long time. the first 30k miles had a stock turbo at 18+ psi and the last 45k were a 16g turbo at over 25psi (some of that time on pump, some on pump/meth). the compression on the motor was fine when i finally upgraded. i probably could have used some upgraded head studs, but most people i talked to were shocked that i had showroom-like compression after all that time.

the moral of the story? boost doesn't break things- bad tunes to. the more power you make, the less of a margin for error you have.

 

agreed, that's what it comes down to. I just like having some peace of mind on pump gas

regarding your statement regarding knock - that was one of the things AMS and Buschur were arguing - that the stock ECU's algorithm for knock is really complex/advanced therein safe, where the EMS just has a knock voltage sensor - which could often NOT pickup knock.

 

yeah, thats just asking for it. but - thats what EGT gauges are for.

 

agreed on the EMS. i wish we had better knowledge of how to adjust the stock filter parameters. i am a huge fan of the stock ECU. with the ability to reprogram every part of it, there should be no reason it can't be as powerful or more powerful than any standalone.

 

well isn't that where the resolution comes in? the timing resolution is really poor on the stock ECU compared to standalones. That was the main advantage of the now defunct XEDE - the timing resolution was vastly superior compared to the stock ECU's.

 

i know some people do some funny rescaling of the tables to get more resolution in the more critical upper rpms/higher load areas. there is a good amount of unused space in the stock ECU. bez or tephra could extend the resolution if it was really important, i just don't think it has been as critical as other features like map switching. or real time tuning.

 

kinda feelin this http://www.topgear.com/content/news/stories/2687/