looking around to see what shops are dong this bc it seems like if your not in washington or florida its not happening very often...open for discussion

Ivey Tuning is in NJ, or you can go with a remote tuning like Mellon or any other. There are alot out there.

there are plenty of remote tuning shops i could go through im just looking to see what shops other are actually venturing into the speed density world because it seems that more and more people just dont want to even try it

e spec at tach motorsports

any more? pretty hard to believe that sd is HUGE out west and down south but not up here?

you should just let me tune it on MAF for now and then once it gets warmer out wait and see how my SD results are once i convert my personal evo to SD and if they are good you can come here in person and we can do your car..

If not the only place i recommend for SD is Espec.

If i can get the numbers i got (29psi) at 590whp on maf it cant be that bad. Mine is however gutted from the screen though and stuff.

thats the plan, just trying to see why no major shop in the tristate area ( not naming any names) aren't willing to even attempt it

SD is so fickle in the winter time. I am finding that out the hard way right now. It is really best to get it tuned spot on a MAF and then hone your skills and learn to do it yourself. I am tweaking so many logs and such that I just didn't have the time to keep up with changing things, so I just paid a remote tuner to do it. Now I log to and from my drive to work and he tweaks things and sends me the new map for the drive home. You need a subscription service for sure with a remote tuner, because you will be doing countless changes. I just started sending them to someone and we have made at least a dozen changes since Saturday via E-mail.

You need to have one SD map for winter and one for summer. The mild weather and temperature changes in between can be compensated for with the IAT sensor, but the huge jumps (fall to winter) cause problems. For instance I was going really lean, so we have had to spend some serious time tweaking the fuel maps, but also my ECU boost tables too.

SD is good for drivability and is very smooth, I also agree it helps free up more horsepower. In return you have to really stay on top of the tune until it is dialed in 100%, and this can be a real PITA. It is just all a question of if you want to spend the time...

Most dont want to spend the time to learn it, or dont feel its worth doing because they offer better solutions in their own opinion. From my understanding, its alittle time consuming, but so is everything else when you are just learning how to do it.

buchnerj, ya i can just imagine with how the weather has been back in pa that your car is going nuts...good part is i dont drive the evo in the winter anymore, atleast not up here in maine

tscompusa,
ya every major shop says to ditch the ecu and go standalone which i dont doubt is limiting in its factors of tunability compared to those standalones but is still able to be realiable, safe, and make big power if the time is invested

Sounds like E85. Except E85 bounces up and down .5 afr from daytime to night in the summer, and summer vs winter is almost 2 points jump.

damn i did not know that...goox info

no its not limiting any factors.. i would say to them where are the bottlenecks? ive had this discussion with Sean many times. there are none.. even with the maf it is capable of over 700whp probably close to 800.

theres nothing holding the stock ecu back. i can run whatever timing i want, i can run whatever fuel i want. i can run whatever load i want, and etc.

Heres where the standalones beat the stock ECU:

Look at it like this. You have a pentium 3 laptop with 128mb of memory, 512kb cache and you're running applications and while its enough to get by you want something quicker..

So you upgrade to say a dual core processor with 3gb of memory and a motherboard with more frontside bus, 3mb cache etc.. just more hardware horsepower if you will to run your applications faster and quicker..

The stock ecu would be the pentium 3.. it has limitations on how fast it can log and how accurately it can spit out data, where is a standalone such as the AEM is a modified ECU, it has more memory and it has a faster processor which allows you to log 1000x faster and more accurately the the stock ecu which is limited like crazy.

Some will argue that doesn't matter because the stock ecu still has more failsafe protection then any EMS out there because its designed specifically for the evo and they implemented things so its safe when things fail. for example if the cam angle sensor fails the timing doesnt go black while it would on a aem if you didnt have the crank trigger plate for AEM.

So theres just one example where a stock ecu is beat by a aftermarket EMS, but i still prefer the stock ecu because the car is designed around it, and the hardware is good enough to get by.. while it may not be the best, it works and thats all that matters to me.

wouldnt the accuracy come into place? i would think that would be a serious factor...correct me if im wrong

i dont know, you tell me? i made 655whp on it with no issues, and map has over 1000whp and mellon 700whp, and so many other guys with high HP. If you're smart enough you dont even need logs to tune a car once you got a good idea where it stands you can tune it blind as long as you have a power reader when adjusting timing.

If I do one pull on my car, and i see the afr curve and timing curve.. you can pretty much take away my datalogging and i will still make good power without blowing my car up as long as i have an accurate power readout showing gains/losses. its just about knowing how to tune for the fuel you're using and specific engine in general.

Its something thats not necessary, you dont need a dual or quad core processor just to browse the web if you get me. if i had a car with over $100,000 mods i sure as **** wouldn't be running a stock ecu though. there are advantages over the stock no doubt. but none we will ever experience on our power levels.

I managed 370whp on a evo3 16g without a wideband with a road tune just logging based off narrowband o2 voltages.. i mean if you know what you're doin you can do it lol. it may have been not the proper way to do it, but i took my chances.