Need some opinons... Safe to run Race gas..
Need some opinons... Safe to run Race gas..
hey All,
Might be a silly question, but i would rather pick the minds of you all instead of going about it unsure...
Is it a bad idea to be running race gas without an EMS??'
My ECU has been flashed for all my Mods, but i understand it might be a pain to tune when i switch around from race gas to pump gas..
Any input here??
Might be a silly question, but i would rather pick the minds of you all instead of going about it unsure...
Is it a bad idea to be running race gas without an EMS??'
My ECU has been flashed for all my Mods, but i understand it might be a pain to tune when i switch around from race gas to pump gas..
Any input here??
Hi Trish, how've you been
? racegas = detonation insurance. Even without any changes to your tune, the ECU will adjust timing somewhat to take advantage of the better knock resistance. It's mostly useful for road racing where things get really hot, on drag YMMV without a specific tune.
? racegas = detonation insurance. Even without any changes to your tune, the ECU will adjust timing somewhat to take advantage of the better knock resistance. It's mostly useful for road racing where things get really hot, on drag YMMV without a specific tune.
Can you switch maps on your ecu from a pump gas to race gas map? If not the car will really not benefit from race gas unless the car is running high enough air fuels to cause the car to knock and pull timing. Race gas is fine on the car as long as you are not running a catalytic converter. It will mess up the 02 sensors as well but over long periods of extended use.
You dont need ems to run race gas. You do however needs a way to monitor what changes are taking place. Alot of people get the flash for pump gas then put in race gas and make changes with a safc II, but you need a way to know what the hell your changing and what effects its having.
Originally Posted by Jim_Patterson
You dont need ems to run race gas. You do however needs a way to monitor what changes are taking place. Alot of people get the flash for pump gas then put in race gas and make changes with a safc II, but you need a way to know what the hell your changing and what effects its having.
I was hoping somebody with all the basic bolt ons and a dynoflash like herself would have already done this in the past and knew a good mixture of gas + what is safe boost.
Anybody?
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Wait, why the F did you post this in this forum of all places? ANYWAY. Warr said he used to do this, and he got her taken care of.
He said 24-25 psi + 2-3 gallons of 100 octane will get the job done.
PERFECT!
Edit: Nope, no logging methods available.
He said 24-25 psi + 2-3 gallons of 100 octane will get the job done.
PERFECT!
Edit: Nope, no logging methods available.
If you REALLY want to get the benefits of race gas, it going to cost you. When you reset your ECU (i.e. disconnecting your battery), it takes about a tank of gas for it to "set" itself. By that I mean that the ECU learns what it is capable of. If you drive in a cooler climate, it will adjust its "base" maps to compensate for it.
So, if you fill up with a tank of race gas, reset your ECU and let it adjust to that fuel, the next tank will be optimized for those specific conditions. Now, when you switch back to regular fuel, it will notice that it cannot advance timing, or run on the new "settings" that it learned on the race gas, and will retard timing and adjust for the new parameters it has to deal with.
If you are just going to run race gas as an added safety precaution, I wouldnt go through all these steps. Get close to empty, put in X amount of race gas, fill up, and be on your way. And while you dont need an EMS to run race gas, you will definently need some sort of logging ability while tuning to see any real gains from pump to race gas. You should have an experienced tuner to help you with that. And make sure that you know how to operate all of your logging equipment.
So, if you fill up with a tank of race gas, reset your ECU and let it adjust to that fuel, the next tank will be optimized for those specific conditions. Now, when you switch back to regular fuel, it will notice that it cannot advance timing, or run on the new "settings" that it learned on the race gas, and will retard timing and adjust for the new parameters it has to deal with.
If you are just going to run race gas as an added safety precaution, I wouldnt go through all these steps. Get close to empty, put in X amount of race gas, fill up, and be on your way. And while you dont need an EMS to run race gas, you will definently need some sort of logging ability while tuning to see any real gains from pump to race gas. You should have an experienced tuner to help you with that. And make sure that you know how to operate all of your logging equipment.
running leaded fuel will hurt your power, it will run better but with out tuning you will be slower.
un-leaded fuel, the higher the octane the better, thus less detination as said befor. so you can run more boost and timiming.
un-leaded fuel, the higher the octane the better, thus less detination as said befor. so you can run more boost and timiming.
Well I recently added some race gas to my trips to the track and believe I have the kind of results you want to see.
This is with the mods in my sig and a basic mail in flash. No additional tuning. The only change was a increase in my boost from 21lbs to 24lbs. This was a mixture of 110 and 92 about 50/50.
Best run with pump.
11.98@114 best mph is 115 on pump
Best run with race
11.77@117 best mph is 119 on race
This is with the mods in my sig and a basic mail in flash. No additional tuning. The only change was a increase in my boost from 21lbs to 24lbs. This was a mixture of 110 and 92 about 50/50.
Best run with pump.
11.98@114 best mph is 115 on pump
Best run with race
11.77@117 best mph is 119 on race



Or just add some 100 octane to a near empty tank and turn the boost up to 25 psi...