Towed the boat to a lake approx 45 min away. Was a bit sluggish on the highway but that is to be expected when towing on any vehicle. Brakes worked great, no issues there. Just a bit sluggish. Guess we'll see how things go. Interested to see if they find anything on first ever oil change/inspection which will be coming up soon. So Id say as long as you stay under 1000 lbs and arent towing in 'hilly' areas, you're ok. Don't even notice it in the city. Just on the highway. Was also quite windy.Def want to give yourself time to get up to highway speed when merging etc.

 

The 2013 was suppose to have a "Tow Package"

This is from their website back in August last year
http://media.mitsubishicars.com/chan...c-10e1b971fe6a

 

Oh nice. I tow towed my wave runner several times this summer, she handles it just fine.

 

If you have any power train issues whether it's towing related or not, I would highly recommend removing your hitch every time you get your vehicle serviced.

 

Why? The hitch is "just for my bike rack". Plus, a guy I know told me you can't tow anything with a 4 cylinder, you need a diesel or a V8 or it won't even move. ;-)

 

The service center doesn't know that. All they know is that you have a hitch that CAN 'tow' and once they annotate something into their systems, such as over sized wheels or a hitch receiver when the service manual specifically recommends you not to tow. They can refuse warranty coverage if any future power train repairs comes up.

I know this because I went through hell with Toyota when I needed a new transmission. I had oversized rims, but I kept the overall diameter the same, and it actually states in their limited warranty that any modification RELATED/CONNECTED to the power train can void your warranty. I tried reporting it to the FTC, I tried using the Magnuson Moss Act and nothing worked. I ended up 8 grand out of pocket, and having to sell the vehicle to finance a new one due to debt from that repair.

 

Well the hitch is a pain in the *** to remove lol. It's not going anywhere.

 

What a freaking pain! Sorry to hear you went through that experience. Just show how some dealerships would rather hide behind some vague warranty verbage than to provide fair service, when a customer needs help.
$8K is extreme... That's enough for a whole new motor and trans plus suspension components.

 

Unfortunately, from the posts I've read here, the Outlander section of Mitsu Forum, and the Lancer section here... Mitsubishi dealers really suck. It seems like the majority of members have local service writers that are not willing to help out at all.

My local dealership had a great, polite, nice guy working there for the first year I had my car, and the new guy was also awesome to deal with, unfortunately, the guy that replaced him... is a total snake and a typical stealership *******.

 

Wes,
Just double checked your link. It should be noted that the Tow Package (from your above link) is for the Outlander... NOT our Outlander Sports

 

Yeah... I found the limit:



U-Haul 5x8 Cargo Trailer

Empty weight: 900lbs

I was HOPING to be able to use this to get a few larger but not too heavy items up to my new apartment (~110 miles each way). Mainly my desk (ikea particleboard L-shaped desk, pretty light, not like solid oak or anything) and my mattress & box spring, so a couple hundred pounds at most.

Unfortunately, after towing it from the U-Haul place to my parents house, roughly 2 miles, I've decided against it. Even empty I feel like the trailer is enough to make the Outlander Sport "huff and puff" a little. Around town or for short distances it would be OK, but 100+ miles at highway speeds (65-70 MPH once north of Chicago) and adding in wind resistance from that massive wall I'd be dragging and I don't think it's a good idea.

I'll be using my brothers friends' 2004 Ford F-350 Super Duty instead. 6.0L Power Stroke turbo diesel with 350HP/560TQ and almost 7k lb towing capacity... should be enough (although I'll be getting like 10-15 MPG)


Now the OS will tug my jet ski or motorcycle no sweat (each ~700 lbs w/ trailer), but again, at 900 lbs it felt... different. It was noticeable that there was a trailer there, unlike with the ski/bike. Therefore, I will make the following statement that is for MY reference ONLY. This is NOT a "recommendation" or "guideline" and you should make any/all towing decisions at your OWN risk.

• Up to ~700 lbs is no problem
• 800-1,000 lbs should be limited to local use only - i.e. short distances at lower speeds
• Over 1,000 lbs is not a good idea

And just for fun:

 

Unless that's the amount of fat stacks I'm hauling home from a Lotto winning.

 

Well that's just silly! You could just call me and we can put half in my car and I'll, uh, follow you... I'm a slow driver though, so don't be concerned if I fall behind... or stop at a bank...

 

I have a 2013 outlander sport. I checked with Uhaul and they have a hitch designed for the outlander sport.
Part number: 78197

And a quick connect kit also
Quick Connect 118538
2011 - Mitsubishi, Outlander Sport, All Styles (Works with all year models )

So I say as long as you keep a low Pay load and use paddle shifting to make sure you stay out of overdrive ( 6th gear ) you should be fine.

I'm having my hitch installed tomorrow at my local Uhaul.

 

Its very strange that at least for USA or Canadian models they don't allow/recommend towing with our models. My dealer told me that I would void warranty right away if I tried to do any towing or added a hitch. I looked at other sites and I know diesel models can tow for sure but also the gasoline models have a tow rating.

The dealer told me its because the engine/transmission isn't sized for towing. I really don't understand why in some countries its allowed and others its not? Do these countries defy the laws of towing physics?

A bit weird since as far as I can tell all the models around the world are pretty much the same other than some are diesel and have a ton of torque so thats understandable.

Is everyone else getting the same from their dealers?