2013 Aluminum Crank Pulley install. detailed.
Jun 23, 2013, 02:44 PM
#16
I have the RRM Pulley installed on my 2011 Outlander Sport, sorry for not making that clear. To date the car has done 15k miles with zero vibration or oil seal leaking issues with it installed.
Probably if someone called RRM they could find out if the only workaround is grinding down the aluminum. Assuming that it wasn't added for structural reasons you are probably safe grinding it off for clearance. Sometimes manufacturers introduce new revisions of their parts without thinking of all the possible conflicts.
Probably if someone called RRM they could find out if the only workaround is grinding down the aluminum. Assuming that it wasn't added for structural reasons you are probably safe grinding it off for clearance. Sometimes manufacturers introduce new revisions of their parts without thinking of all the possible conflicts.
Jun 24, 2013, 06:08 AM
#17
Evolved Member
I have the RRM Pulley installed on my 2011 Outlander Sport, sorry for not making that clear. To date the car has done 15k miles with zero vibration or oil seal leaking issues with it installed.
Probably if someone called RRM they could find out if the only workaround is grinding down the aluminum. Assuming that it wasn't added for structural reasons you are probably safe grinding it off for clearance. Sometimes manufacturers introduce new revisions of their parts without thinking of all the possible conflicts.
Probably if someone called RRM they could find out if the only workaround is grinding down the aluminum. Assuming that it wasn't added for structural reasons you are probably safe grinding it off for clearance. Sometimes manufacturers introduce new revisions of their parts without thinking of all the possible conflicts.
Jun 25, 2013, 10:01 PM
#18
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Well, I spoke with the people at RRM, and they have confirmed that their pulley has been put on several vehicles "personally" 2012-2013 with the ridges, and it "does" fit.
It's close, but it "does" fit.
So, for me, I'm on the task of trying to get OBX racing to change their pulley design and hopefully exchange them. I'd be happy to provide them some measurements.
Since I already installed it and now it's got wear on the back side, I'm not able to send it back to the ebay supplier I bought it from.
So maybe I'll have to post it up in the 4-sale section for you pre 2012 owners if I can't get it exchanged.
I still haven't heard from OBX on the issue, but I was able to call RRM first ring. Perhaps they are researching the issue 1st.
It's close, but it "does" fit.
So, for me, I'm on the task of trying to get OBX racing to change their pulley design and hopefully exchange them. I'd be happy to provide them some measurements.
Since I already installed it and now it's got wear on the back side, I'm not able to send it back to the ebay supplier I bought it from.
So maybe I'll have to post it up in the 4-sale section for you pre 2012 owners if I can't get it exchanged.
I still haven't heard from OBX on the issue, but I was able to call RRM first ring. Perhaps they are researching the issue 1st.
Jun 25, 2013, 10:26 PM
#19
Well, I spoke with the people at RRM, and they have confirmed that their pulley has been put on several vehicles "personally" 2012-2013 with the ridges, and it "does" fit.
It's close, but it "does" fit.
So, for me, I'm on the task of trying to get OBX racing to change their pulley design and hopefully exchange them. I'd be happy to provide them some measurements.
Since I already installed it and now it's got wear on the back side, I'm not able to send it back to the ebay supplier I bought it from.
So maybe I'll have to post it up in the 4-sale section for you pre 2012 owners if I can't get it exchanged.
I still haven't heard from OBX on the issue, but I was able to call RRM first ring. Perhaps they are researching the issue 1st.
It's close, but it "does" fit.
So, for me, I'm on the task of trying to get OBX racing to change their pulley design and hopefully exchange them. I'd be happy to provide them some measurements.
Since I already installed it and now it's got wear on the back side, I'm not able to send it back to the ebay supplier I bought it from.
So maybe I'll have to post it up in the 4-sale section for you pre 2012 owners if I can't get it exchanged.
I still haven't heard from OBX on the issue, but I was able to call RRM first ring. Perhaps they are researching the issue 1st.
Jun 28, 2013, 10:08 AM
#20
ok so RRM pulley is a close fit on the 13 but works.... I will be ordering directly. I had one of these on my evo and it made a huge difference! 3lbs. less roational mass off the crank should def feel the difference and see it in MPG when you drive easy.
Jun 28, 2013, 12:09 PM
#21
Evolved Member
A BIG Thank You to everyone who's installed, called and/or confirmed the issues with the lightweight crank from the two vendors.
I'm not at the point of doing this mod, but very appreciative to the heads-up on what model to get AND what to look out for..
I'm not at the point of doing this mod, but very appreciative to the heads-up on what model to get AND what to look out for..
Jul 9, 2013, 08:25 PM
#22
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Well, I've tried 2 different ways of contacting OBX racing about the pulley issue and offering to help with some new dimentions/specs for them, but no luck. They say a tech will get back with you, but I have yet to hear from anyone from either of the inquiries I've left, so one can only conclude that they just don't care, or there's really no one getting back to you.
I've been out on vacations for the past 2 weeks, but I still get emails on my phone and I left my number, so I guess I'll put them in the "Don't bother doing business with" category.
Shame tho, you'd have thought they would appreciated the FREE help and info on the new motors so they could sell more products. I guess some people look at it differently.
So now I have a new pulley with a slightly noticeable smear on the back doing me no good. Crap.
I've been out on vacations for the past 2 weeks, but I still get emails on my phone and I left my number, so I guess I'll put them in the "Don't bother doing business with" category.
Shame tho, you'd have thought they would appreciated the FREE help and info on the new motors so they could sell more products. I guess some people look at it differently.
So now I have a new pulley with a slightly noticeable smear on the back doing me no good. Crap.
Last edited by Krakker; Jul 9, 2013 at 08:28 PM.
Jul 9, 2013, 09:12 PM
#23
Evolved Member
Well, I've tried 2 different ways of contacting OBX racing about the pulley issue and offering to help with some new dimentions/specs for them, but no luck. They say a tech will get back with you, but I have yet to hear from anyone from either of the inquiries I've left, so one can only conclude that they just don't care, or there's really no one getting back to you.
I've been out on vacations for the past 2 weeks, but I still get emails on my phone and I left my number...
I've been out on vacations for the past 2 weeks, but I still get emails on my phone and I left my number...
Their loss..
(Level of Commitment)
Jul 10, 2013, 05:22 AM
#24
Evolved Member
I still have my RRM pulley, been budgeting for a while since the last set of mods to be able to put it on at tge same time I install the wide ban O2 and get a solid tune. Was going to do it last month, but now Im holding out till I get a evoX throttle body, iridium plugs, possible injectors too so I dont have to tune twice. I will let yall know over performance gains with all the mods pretty soon.
Jul 10, 2013, 09:45 AM
#25
I found this company RPW out of Australia that also sells pulley's for the 4B11/Lancers and they have this on their website:
I was led their by a comment in the Lancer section here ( Post #10 ). The member speaks of this company making a good product and ensures the pulley is balanced, allegedly unlike the competition 
Either way, hopefully RPW will get the newer 4B11 pulley issue addressed and released soon for you guys.
Originally Posted by Racing Performance World
Please Note : Mitsubishi has altered the timing cover on the 2012 models with an additional raised section which interferes with the current range of Alutec Pulleys. This can be resolved by machining away approx 1 - 2mm of material to provide sufficient clearance. We are working with Alutec to produce a revised version of the pulley which will fit both early and late model engines.
Either way, hopefully RPW will get the newer 4B11 pulley issue addressed and released soon for you guys.
Jul 13, 2013, 10:29 AM
#26
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Well, after giving it my best shot to help the consumer and a company with their design, I decided not to give up on the current pulley. (and not waist the money already spent.
As I said in the beginning, I'm not afraid to grind on the block. So,,,,,, today I ground on the block. Some mods just take some actual work VS. just bolting on some parts.
I did use a plastic cap from a spray air freshener at any auto parts store. I cut it down and cut a slit in the side so it would fit over the crank and into the seal. I then put duct tape over the cap and around the seal area and trimmed with a razor blade.
On the bottom ridge, I was able to use my 4" angle grinder W/ C/O wheel, went pretty quick. On the top, I used my dremel with a burr tool to slowly work away the metal.
After I was done, I put some Dykum on the ridges (it's a machinists best friend when checking for clearance) so that when I turned the motor over it would show if there were any rubbing. You can see in the 2 pictures there are NO shiny spots after the grinding. I took off about 2-3 mils.
I hand tightened the crank bolt and then centered the washer as best I could see, then hit with the impact a couple seconds..
NOTE: I put some oil on the bolt threads and the pulley surface before installing it into seal.
Throttle response is noticeably smoother AND quicker. I'm pretty happy with this mod. VERY easy to do if you have a pre 2012 4b11 motor, only a little more tool required and not being afraid to grind on the block near the crank.
YOU CAN DO IT!!!!
As I said in the beginning, I'm not afraid to grind on the block. So,,,,,, today I ground on the block. Some mods just take some actual work VS. just bolting on some parts.
I did use a plastic cap from a spray air freshener at any auto parts store. I cut it down and cut a slit in the side so it would fit over the crank and into the seal. I then put duct tape over the cap and around the seal area and trimmed with a razor blade.
On the bottom ridge, I was able to use my 4" angle grinder W/ C/O wheel, went pretty quick. On the top, I used my dremel with a burr tool to slowly work away the metal.
After I was done, I put some Dykum on the ridges (it's a machinists best friend when checking for clearance) so that when I turned the motor over it would show if there were any rubbing. You can see in the 2 pictures there are NO shiny spots after the grinding. I took off about 2-3 mils.
I hand tightened the crank bolt and then centered the washer as best I could see, then hit with the impact a couple seconds..
NOTE: I put some oil on the bolt threads and the pulley surface before installing it into seal.
Throttle response is noticeably smoother AND quicker. I'm pretty happy with this mod. VERY easy to do if you have a pre 2012 4b11 motor, only a little more tool required and not being afraid to grind on the block near the crank.
YOU CAN DO IT!!!!
Jul 13, 2013, 12:34 PM
#28
Evolved Member
Well, after giving it my best shot to help the consumer and a company with their design, I decided not to give up on the current pulley. (and not waist the money already spent.
As I said in the beginning, I'm not afraid to grind on the block. So,,,,,, today I ground on the block. Some mods just take some actual work VS. just bolting on some parts.
I did use a plastic cap from a spray air freshener at any auto parts store. I cut it down and cut a slit in the side so it would fit over the crank and into the seal. I then put duct tape over the cap and around the seal area and trimmed with a razor blade.
On the bottom ridge, I was able to use my 4" angle grinder W/ C/O wheel, went pretty quick. On the top, I used my dremel with a burr tool to slowly work away the metal.
After I was done, I put some Dykum on the ridges (it's a machinists best friend when checking for clearance) so that when I turned the motor over it would show if there were any rubbing. You can see in the 2 pictures there are NO shiny spots after the grinding. I took off about 2-3 mils.
I hand tightened the crank bolt and then centered the washer as best I could see, then hit with the impact a couple seconds..
NOTE: I put some oil on the bolt threads and the pulley surface before installing it into seal.
Throttle response is noticeably smoother AND quicker. I'm pretty happy with this mod. VERY easy to do if you have a pre 2012 4b11 motor, only a little more tool required and not being afraid to grind on the block near the crank.
YOU CAN DO IT!!!!
As I said in the beginning, I'm not afraid to grind on the block. So,,,,,, today I ground on the block. Some mods just take some actual work VS. just bolting on some parts.
I did use a plastic cap from a spray air freshener at any auto parts store. I cut it down and cut a slit in the side so it would fit over the crank and into the seal. I then put duct tape over the cap and around the seal area and trimmed with a razor blade.
On the bottom ridge, I was able to use my 4" angle grinder W/ C/O wheel, went pretty quick. On the top, I used my dremel with a burr tool to slowly work away the metal.
After I was done, I put some Dykum on the ridges (it's a machinists best friend when checking for clearance) so that when I turned the motor over it would show if there were any rubbing. You can see in the 2 pictures there are NO shiny spots after the grinding. I took off about 2-3 mils.
I hand tightened the crank bolt and then centered the washer as best I could see, then hit with the impact a couple seconds..
NOTE: I put some oil on the bolt threads and the pulley surface before installing it into seal.
Throttle response is noticeably smoother AND quicker. I'm pretty happy with this mod. VERY easy to do if you have a pre 2012 4b11 motor, only a little more tool required and not being afraid to grind on the block near the crank.
YOU CAN DO IT!!!!
Thank you so much for taking the risk and attempting this grind for the benefit of us all.
Glad to see it worked for you AND that you're getting noticeable RPM response.
We definitely appreciate it!
Jul 13, 2013, 02:09 PM
#29
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
yeah, pretty much. Sorry, I didn't think you were interested and by the time I read your reply, I had already been to the dealer and made up my mind to go ahead and mod the block. The back of the pulley only had a slight smear so I figured what the heck, just do it. Hope you don't hold it against me.
You're welcome. Just glad to con tribute and share some experience.