KIDO Racing Coilovers...lowering our OS/RVR/ASX confirmed.
Mar 19, 2014, 03:43 PM
#31
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So here's my report on the ride so far. Like I said, the wife drives Dory for the most part and she told me she was hearing a little scuff noise coming from the rear. She was right. At the ride height you see, there is a noticeable scuffing noise from the inner portion of the tire rubbing in the right rear wheel-well. It ONLY HAPPENS WHEN making faster than normal right hand turns, like on onramps(cloverleafs). It's very minor, and can be addressed by raising the rears up a notch, or putting spacers on the wheels. The small camber difference, really did make a difference.
This past weekend, we went back to Walt Disney World, and I can definitely tell you, she rides much stiffer even at it's softest setting, than when we went to the park just a month ago. Going through downtown Orlando where I knew there was a lot of turbulence on the interstate was going to be a test. There is no rubbing noise going straight at all times, no matter how severe the dips and uneven pavement were.
You definitely feel the road a lot more and the front has the typical "thump" noise as you hit even the smallest crack at under 5mph, but that's the kind of stuff I notice, that most people probably wouldn't care less. I had to dodge a huge limb at 45mph and let me tell you, if this car had more *** to it, I'd probably consider autocrossing it on a weekend basis. Other than that, rides awesome in my standards and still looks great to me!
This past weekend, we went back to Walt Disney World, and I can definitely tell you, she rides much stiffer even at it's softest setting, than when we went to the park just a month ago. Going through downtown Orlando where I knew there was a lot of turbulence on the interstate was going to be a test. There is no rubbing noise going straight at all times, no matter how severe the dips and uneven pavement were.
You definitely feel the road a lot more and the front has the typical "thump" noise as you hit even the smallest crack at under 5mph, but that's the kind of stuff I notice, that most people probably wouldn't care less. I had to dodge a huge limb at 45mph and let me tell you, if this car had more *** to it, I'd probably consider autocrossing it on a weekend basis. Other than that, rides awesome in my standards and still looks great to me!
Mar 20, 2014, 05:45 AM
#32
So here's my report on the ride so far. Like I said, the wife drives Dory for the most part and she told me she was hearing a little scuff noise coming from the rear. She was right. At the ride height you see, there is a noticeable scuffing noise from the inner portion of the tire rubbing in the right rear wheel-well. It ONLY HAPPENS WHEN making faster than normal right hand turns, like on onramps(cloverleafs). It's very minor, and can be addressed by raising the rears up a notch, or putting spacers on the wheels. The small camber difference, really did make a difference.
This past weekend, we went back to Walt Disney World, and I can definitely tell you, she rides much stiffer even at it's softest setting, than when we went to the park just a month ago. Going through downtown Orlando where I knew there was a lot of turbulence on the interstate was going to be a test. There is no rubbing noise going straight at all times, no matter how severe the dips and uneven pavement were.
You definitely feel the road a lot more and the front has the typical "thump" noise as you hit even the smallest crack at under 5mph, but that's the kind of stuff I notice, that most people probably wouldn't care less. I had to dodge a huge limb at 45mph and let me tell you, if this car had more *** to it, I'd probably consider autocrossing it on a weekend basis. Other than that, rides awesome in my standards and still looks great to me!
This past weekend, we went back to Walt Disney World, and I can definitely tell you, she rides much stiffer even at it's softest setting, than when we went to the park just a month ago. Going through downtown Orlando where I knew there was a lot of turbulence on the interstate was going to be a test. There is no rubbing noise going straight at all times, no matter how severe the dips and uneven pavement were.
You definitely feel the road a lot more and the front has the typical "thump" noise as you hit even the smallest crack at under 5mph, but that's the kind of stuff I notice, that most people probably wouldn't care less. I had to dodge a huge limb at 45mph and let me tell you, if this car had more *** to it, I'd probably consider autocrossing it on a weekend basis. Other than that, rides awesome in my standards and still looks great to me!
The thumb noise you should really look into. is it in the front? I had this issue on my genesis with coilovers and the sway bar end link came loose partially on one side, damaged the threads and a new one had to be ordered. make sure everything is still tight. I usually recheck everything around 200-500 miles after install.
Mar 20, 2014, 07:13 AM
#33
Well I have more than one reason to wait. Im really happy there is finally something that works to lower the Outlander but for one, Im not excited enough like you guys to pay more shipping on a box of coilovers than I paid for a set of wheels from Japan. Second, I want to actually make sure these work correctly and are quality made before I spend the money and the only way to tell is time. Im not so worried as its my wife's vehicle that I barely drive. I feel like they are charging that price because they know nobody else has made a set and supply and demand sets in. Ill wait a while for the cost to drop.
Mar 20, 2014, 07:56 AM
#34
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The rubbing can be solved by raising the rear a little or playing with the adjustable dampeners. I always start about half way on each dampener and then adjust to my driving and road conditions. so play with it and see what you come up with so you dont damage you fender and or tire.
The thumb noise you should really look into. is it in the front? I had this issue on my genesis with coilovers and the sway bar end link came loose partially on one side, damaged the threads and a new one had to be ordered. make sure everything is still tight. I usually recheck everything around 200-500 miles after install.
The thumb noise you should really look into. is it in the front? I had this issue on my genesis with coilovers and the sway bar end link came loose partially on one side, damaged the threads and a new one had to be ordered. make sure everything is still tight. I usually recheck everything around 200-500 miles after install.
Well I have more than one reason to wait. Im really happy there is finally something that works to lower the Outlander but for one, Im not excited enough like you guys to pay more shipping on a box of coilovers than I paid for a set of wheels from Japan. Second, I want to actually make sure these work correctly and are quality made before I spend the money and the only way to tell is time. Im not so worried as its my wife's vehicle that I barely drive. I feel like they are charging that price because they know nobody else has made a set and supply and demand sets in. Ill wait a while for the cost to drop.
Mar 23, 2014, 07:11 AM
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LUNARFX, Very nice. Thanks for the insight and confirmation. I am about 90% ready to pull the trigger on these. Also, congrats on your photos making it to the EBAY listing!!!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kido-Coilove...-/221389898782
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kido-Coilove...-/221389898782
Mar 23, 2014, 08:04 PM
#37
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LUNARFX, Very nice. Thanks for the insight and confirmation. I am about 90% ready to pull the trigger on these. Also, congrats on your photos making it to the EBAY listing!!!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kido-Coilove...-/221389898782
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kido-Coilove...-/221389898782
Sep 20, 2014, 06:57 AM
#38
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can you please tell us which exactly will be removed in our trunk to find the bolts of the rear coilover??? many thanks here!
Well, after researching for a year, reading a good amount of threads here, I finally buckled down and asked for the Kido Racing coilovers for Valentine's Day.
I highly considered going air ride, talking with friends who have airbags on their respective rides, and even considered locating the compressor and hardware forward the engine bay, to keep the trunk space free. I've talked with reps from AirLift and AccuAir and was still not convinced after weighing out my options.
I refused to cut or heat the springs as I come from the lowrider world in the early 90's, and have seen a good amount of bad mishaps happen to cars when lowered in that fashion. Considering my wife drives Dory more than I do, it wasn't even a consideration. Not to mention, I'm not cutting springs on a $20,000 when there are other options.
When it came down to it, the research I did with Kido Racing was worth taking a shot.
So today, I found time to install the setup, and must say, it's very easy(if you have experience with doing suspension work before.) Installing the front did not have any surprises, and the Kido Racing coilover setup is a perfect application with no kind of fabrication. The rear was even easier in that you only have to take the false floor surrounding the spare tire to obtain the bolts holding the struts in from the interior. You do not have to take the subwoofer or any of the side panels off in the trunk.
I do not plan on autocrossing, nor even racing Dory, in that I already have a DSM for that purpose. With that said, I can't honestly give an opinion in the area of "competitive racing." In other words, I can't tell you if the coilover setup gives understeer, or oversteer. I can tell you, that at the softest setting, the street ride is nice and firm, so I can only imagine if I balanced out the front and rear with some added stiffness to the setting. I can also comment that on circular/cloverleaf onramps/offramps, there is much less body sway or side to side roll.
Some may justify that the front strut tower brace gives the same improvement, but that's just hard for me to believe. Then again, I opted to go with the coilover setup before a strut tower brace to give my opinion on body roll. It would be nice in the future if an aftermarket sway bar can be offered, but again, who needs it unless you'll actually be autocrossing. It was just a note I put in the back of my head when I noticed how small the sway bar was.
The quality looks and feels very nice, and definitely looks as expensive as some of the higher end coilovers in the market. Only time and mileage will tell on how truly good of a quality this setup is and worth the money. So feel free to ask any questions, as the pictures should answer it all...
Opened up the trunk this sunshiny morning...
I started with what I thought was going to be the harder side to do first. The rear setup...
After realizing that I didn't have to take the entire trunk apart to get to the bolts, I was good to go...
Then of course came the front side, which I wish I had a scale to weigh the difference as the OEM strut was obviously heavier than the aftermarket setup. I extended the setup to try and match the OEM setup if you wanted the ride height to stay in bubba mode...
It's somewhat hard to see, but the bottom adjustable collar on the front is black in color, where the rear is a matching blue to the locking collar. In the picture on the rear, you can see, there is still more room to go lower.
Here's a picture almost a year ago in April when we first got her...
And today after I washed Dory...
Measurement-wise, I went with a safe 5" from the bottom of the fender to the top of the center of the rim on both front and rear.
I highly considered going air ride, talking with friends who have airbags on their respective rides, and even considered locating the compressor and hardware forward the engine bay, to keep the trunk space free. I've talked with reps from AirLift and AccuAir and was still not convinced after weighing out my options.
I refused to cut or heat the springs as I come from the lowrider world in the early 90's, and have seen a good amount of bad mishaps happen to cars when lowered in that fashion. Considering my wife drives Dory more than I do, it wasn't even a consideration. Not to mention, I'm not cutting springs on a $20,000
when there are other options.When it came down to it, the research I did with Kido Racing was worth taking a shot.
So today, I found time to install the setup, and must say, it's very easy(if you have experience with doing suspension work before.) Installing the front did not have any surprises, and the Kido Racing coilover setup is a perfect application with no kind of fabrication. The rear was even easier in that you only have to take the false floor surrounding the spare tire to obtain the bolts holding the struts in from the interior. You do not have to take the subwoofer or any of the side panels off in the trunk.
I do not plan on autocrossing, nor even racing Dory, in that I already have a DSM for that purpose. With that said, I can't honestly give an opinion in the area of "competitive racing." In other words, I can't tell you if the coilover setup gives understeer, or oversteer. I can tell you, that at the softest setting, the street ride is nice and firm, so I can only imagine if I balanced out the front and rear with some added stiffness to the setting. I can also comment that on circular/cloverleaf onramps/offramps, there is much less body sway or side to side roll.
Some may justify that the front strut tower brace gives the same improvement, but that's just hard for me to believe. Then again, I opted to go with the coilover setup before a strut tower brace to give my opinion on body roll. It would be nice in the future if an aftermarket sway bar can be offered, but again, who needs it unless you'll actually be autocrossing. It was just a note I put in the back of my head when I noticed how small the sway bar was.
The quality looks and feels very nice, and definitely looks as expensive as some of the higher end coilovers in the market. Only time and mileage will tell on how truly good of a quality this setup is and worth the money. So feel free to ask any questions, as the pictures should answer it all...
Opened up the trunk this sunshiny morning...
I started with what I thought was going to be the harder side to do first. The rear setup...
After realizing that I didn't have to take the entire trunk apart to get to the bolts, I was good to go...
Then of course came the front side, which I wish I had a scale to weigh the difference as the OEM strut was obviously heavier than the aftermarket setup. I extended the setup to try and match the OEM setup if you wanted the ride height to stay in bubba mode...
It's somewhat hard to see, but the bottom adjustable collar on the front is black in color, where the rear is a matching blue to the locking collar. In the picture on the rear, you can see, there is still more room to go lower.
Here's a picture almost a year ago in April when we first got her...
And today after I washed Dory...
Measurement-wise, I went with a safe 5" from the bottom of the fender to the top of the center of the rim on both front and rear.
Oct 10, 2014, 01:15 AM
#39
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This is a pretty informative thread. Are there any more updates like lighting adjustments, hardware issues, or just overall settings of the coilovers? BTW, 800-1000 seem to be the going rate for a good set of coilovers with or without shipping. Just my 02¢.
Dec 15, 2014, 09:59 AM
#42
Evolved Member
Kido Racing Coilovers are now For Sale here...
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...aillights.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...aillights.html
payment sent for the Kido coil overs,
that's soooooo much Ernie
