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Has anyone, without the glass roof, put any sound deadening material on the roof of their OS?
I feel like i have a lot of road noise up there due to the crossbars and roof basket, that someone with the glassroof wouldnt have.
If you have, what material did you use?
I have read people using "quickroof" - roofing material as a substitute to dynomat... also wondering if that will hold up to Texas heat.
From: Out towards the countryside of Dallas, TX (USA)
Originally Posted by jono119
Has anyone, without the glass roof, put any sound deadening material on the roof of their OS?
I feel like i have a lot of road noise up there due to the crossbars and roof basket, that someone with the glassroof wouldnt have.
If you have, what material did you use?
I have read people using "quickroof" - roofing material as a substitute to dynomat... also wondering if that will hold up to Texas heat.
If you're sticking anything on the roof of your vehicle (Especially here in Texas), I wouldn't recommend using that.
The adhesive that's used on those things give off a vapor/smell when heated and it tends to liquidize as well, so that 'roofing mat' (when it's upside down on your roof) will eventually decouple from its own weight**.
Spend the money and go with a proven brand/material that are designed for the "heated" environment, like Dynomat Extreme or similar product. Install and don't have to worry about it 'de-laminating' in the heat.
- now if you're using that material in the floorpan or spare wheel well that should be more than fine.
** If you don't believe it or just want to test it out, apply a strip of that material to a piece of scrap metal and place it upside down in the sun for a week or two and see if that 'mat' is still in place (or have slipped off)
I have not done the roof but applied sound deadening on the doors.
I used a cheaper ebay alternative for dynamat: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/39-x-10-Car-T...mtr&rmvSB=true
For the roof you are going to need two of those.
One side note: It is butyl rubber layered on an aluminum foil and I received mine without completely vulcanized. If you go with this and experience rubber smell wait two weeks or so with the installation. Unroll the package and leave it in a well ventilated dry place before putting it on.
You may have a more serious problem with construction materials as they contain tar/bitumen. The bad odor comes back every summer as the tar softens at high temperatures.
New to the forum, but I am definitely interested in sound deadening the roof of my 2020 OS. I have sound deadened almost everything with dynamat, and added closed cell foam inside the plastic panels, and it has made an incredible improvement. The only thing left is the rear hatch, and the roof... mainly because I ran out of time... and sound deadening material. I used 108 sq/ft of dynamat so far and will probably need another 36 sq/ft to do the roof and back hatch. This is definitely not a project for the faint of heart... it's a ton of work, but in my opinion has made a great improvement to the interior ride quality due to the reduction in outside noise. Will definitely be looking for tips/tricks/how-to information so I don't screw up the headliner.
Dynamat doesn't block sound, it only dampens sheet metal vibrations. So you probably need at most six 1'x1' pieces. You only need to cover 25% of a panel to stop it from vibrating.
That by itself will help quite a bit. You'd then need some sort of a noise blocker. You can't put a mass loaded vinyl layer as it's too heavy. Adhesives will eventually let go. So the only thing you really can do is some light weight foam or woven wool type material to block some of it. Remember you don't have road noise to block up top, so you don't really need great noise isolation there.
But this combined with the dynamat-type Butyl adhesives made a pretty big difference.
If you're trying to block noise from stuff on the roof, like cross bars, or luggage, make the stuff quiet (windshield for cross bars, or use aero cross bars, get an aerodynamic roof box. Roof baskets with bags on top will by nature be noisy).
Thank you for the response, that definitely looks like the way to go for the roof. I used the dynamat throughout due to the speaker install, and then used the closed cell foam which is probably where I'm getting most of the sound deadening. The dynamat was used on the inner door skin, as well as sealing up the holes on the door panels to act as a vapor barrier, and help with acoustics, as I replaced all of the stock factory speakers.
This was the foam I used over the Dynamat, and inside the plastic panels:
For the most part the OS had no insulation/sound deadening at all from the factory. The foam I used was pretty thick, as I wanted maximum effectiveness... but be prepared to do some trimming in a few places to allow you to get proper fitment on the plastic panels.
I want to do a roof rack, and probably some lights for trails in West Texas, so I was going to try and be proactive... since I probably went overboard on the rest of deadening.
Last edited by drlloyd76; Nov 24, 2023 at 06:32 AM.
That looks great, and similar to what I did with the dynamat extreme on the doors. I guess I need to start my own build page so I can show some pictures. Honestly I never thought of MLV for sound deadening, but can see where it would be very effective. I guess my thought on the roof was to use the dynamat extreme, and then a layer of the closed cell foam as it is very light and would not weigh down the headliner over time... basically just filling the void between the metal and the headliner. Definitely not in a hurry to pull the headliner...mainly just don't want to mess it up, but I think taking my time it should be fairly straightforward.
Damn! That looks very similar to what I did. I put down a layer of the dynamat extreme. and then put the closed cell foam over that. You did an incredible job of piecing all of the foam together... looks much prettier than mine, but once I got it back together it looks OEM... other than the nice solid "THUD" when you close the door now. This was my first vehicle to venture into the world of sound deadening, but it really did make an incredible difference. I closed up the holes on the doors to provide a vapor barrier, as well as try and minimize any noise from the outside of the vehicle. Just ran out of time and material... the only thing I have left is the back hatch and the roof. The closed cell foam I used was a little thick (394 mil):
... You could go with something a little thinner and probably have a little easier time fitting the plastic panels back on, but with a little trimming and some persistence, it has filled the gap between the panel and the door very well. The foam is very light, but kills a considerable amount of outside noise.
Last edited by drlloyd76; Nov 25, 2023 at 05:19 AM.
There are different engineering approaches to doing this. When I do my projects I am almost always adding a powerful subwoofer with a ported box, tuned very low. The last box I built was engineered with a tuned note of 31.5hz. As a result- I want to lower the resonant frequency of the body panels. When you increase the mass- it will raise the energy required to vibrate at that given frequency- hence it will sound less rattle-ish. The foam and blanket material will do little for bass vibration, but it will eliminate more of the road noise- which is why many luxury cars are full of "teddy bear stuffing" material behind the trim pieces. Personally I'm not so interested in doing this- I am more interested in the car not sounding like a someone is trying to escape out of the trunk when the subwoofer hits.
