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I'm going to install an inverter in the cabin and am going to run 2 power cables from the battery. But I'm unable to find a spot that allows me to pull 2, 8-gauge wires through. I looked at the main wiring grommet, there was no way to fit 2 8-gauges through that hole. I didn't want to poke a hole there....
I've looked at another forum that said if it's a Lancer, there is a small grommet somewhere around the lower left of the engine bay which allows wires to come out from underneath the glove box. I wonder if the Outlander Sport has the same grommet.
NICE! So it does have the similar grommet somewhere there.
Thanks for the help!
I am happy to help if I can. It is not a grommet but rather a rectangular (with rounded corners) cover with foam sealing. You should be able to fish your cables (vertically) across. This is why a coat hanger is a great tool for this job. With this method you will need longer wires though but no drilling is required. Good luck.
So I've tried to look for that rectangular shape opening as AWCAWD described last night. I looked from behind the glove box as well as from the engine bay, but I had no luck finding it. I did peep behind those lining by pulling them down a bit but I didn't pull them all out. Is that hole way under those engine bay linings? If anyone could show a picture with some pointers or just circle the area where I should be looking at, that would be greatly appreciated !!!
So I've tried to look for that rectangular shape opening as AWCAWD described last night. I looked from behind the glove box as well as from the engine bay, but I had no luck finding it. I did peep behind those lining by pulling them down a bit but I didn't pull them all out. Is that hole way under those engine bay linings? If anyone could show a picture with some pointers or just circle the area where I should be looking at, that would be greatly appreciated !!!
Thanks for the help..
This opening is not visible, so looking and peeping will not help.
You have to remove the plastic gutter underneath the windshield (outside)and reach into the opened space under the windshield until you get to the vertical metal sheet (firewall). Then move your finger until you feel the mentioned opening with a foam insulation. It is tight. You will be able to pull the wire in from inside after removing the glove box and reaching up to the upper corner just under the windshield.
For reference I insert my description again from post #869 "I found a spot above the glove box on the passenger side that can be accessed by removing the glove box (inside) and the plastic gutter below the front wipers (outside; coat hanger is needed again). "
Last edited by AWCAWD; Sep 12, 2017 at 02:36 PM.
Reason: added a picture
Did you mean to run the wires thru this big hole? This is an air duct or something and there is no space to pull any wire thru it.... I'm kinda confused.... :\
Yes. Just reach in and up and you will be able to feel a foam isolated piece. I am attaching three diagrams from the body repair manual. I pulled two wires through this although it is tight as I explained.
Last edited by AWCAWD; Sep 13, 2017 at 06:54 AM.
Reason: updated with added diagrams
Thanks. I will take a good look again. On the other hand, however, I'm also trying to feed the power cables from behind the fender to the cabin. Since running the cables all the way from the battery, through that air duct and go back into the cabin, the cables will be quite long (which lead to greater lost in power). If it's possible to feed them through behind the driver side fender, that would be a significantly shorter route.
Thanks. I will take a good look again. On the other hand, however, I'm also trying to feed the power cables from behind the fender to the cabin. Since running the cables all the way from the battery, through that air duct and go back into the cabin, the cables will be quite long (which lead to greater lost in power). If it's possible to feed them through behind the driver side fender, that would be a significantly shorter route.
I understand and looking forward to seeing your solution.
I would be more concerned about the cost of the wire than the loss of power. If my quick calculation is correct, with your 8 gauge copper wire (cross sectional area and specific resistance are available on the web) you would lose a little over 1% more power with 4 m of wire than with 2 m provided you want to draw 30 A current. In other words you would need more than 8 m wire to see 0.5 V drop in voltage at 30 A load. I assume you will not draw 30 A unless you plan to use a hair dryer with the inverter. How critical is the stability of voltage for your proposed application?
Just a reminder: in a modern car we have something like 1 mile long cables total, whereas in a Boeing 747 about 170 miles.
Tried to take off the drive side fender, but nope! couldn't do it... I was too chicken doing it LOL. I'm no autobody shop guy, I don't wanna break the panel or crack the paint by pulling it it out by force. I'm gonna seek for help on that...
Nah, I'm not planning to plug any power thirsty tool like a 1600W hair dryer there...LOL. But since the inverter has 300W output, I just wanna maximize it in case I need it.
Tried to take off the drive side fender, but nope! couldn't do it... I was too chicken doing it LOL. I'm no autobody shop guy, I don't wanna break the panel or crack the paint by pulling it it out by force. I'm gonna seek for help on that...
Nah, I'm not planning to plug any power thirsty tool like a 1600W hair dryer there...LOL. But since the inverter has 300W output, I just wanna maximize it in case I need it.
Yes. Just reach in and up and you will be able to feel a foam isolated piece. I am attaching three diagrams from the body repair manual. I pulled two wires through this although it is tight as I explained.
Sep 11, 2017, 01:58 PM
