Very nice. I will contact Emery also and see what he says.

if you guys are pushing that much oil the compressor side seal may be bad.

turbos brand new. maybe 250 miles on it. was just rebuilt. i called fp, they said that the vband is not designed to seal for a reason, so if you have extreme crankcase pressure it will leak past the vband. if it continues after i get a proper crankcase ventilation i will send it back to them again, but i doubt it has anything to do with the seal, theres no smoke out the tailpipe at all.

another thing to consider is a good catch can. a lot of people go for some exotic baller brand and 99% dont work good. i strongly recommend this one. it works better than anything i have ever used. even $200+ ones.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-85470/

i think i need atleast 5/8 - 1" fittings tho. i plan on running 40psi+ eventually. I was initially gonna go with this: Attachment 290600

but JID2 told me not to because it fills up the can so fast and he had to make something on his dipstick to drain the oil back to the pan similar to br's catch can.

so he said just drill out the existing holes on the valve cover and bring them to a catch can and vent to atmosphere with a air filter.

I just want to go the best route possible. the least amount of oil loss, and the most ventilation possible.

with the 3/8 npt fittings you can run a pair of 1/2" i.d. hoses. that should be plenty unless the engine is in really poor health. and i agree, hog out the stock baffled fitting holes and mount the can as high as possible.

well the engine only has 250 miles on it as well. it cant do pulls without having a spring holding down the dipstick, so it has lots of blowby, but the compression is 150 across right now. i think thats about right since i have big cams and 9:1 compression.

it will get a lot better with more miles, but that moroso can with a pair of 1/2" hoses can pass a lot of air and catch a lot of oil.

I've posted this pic a couple times in catch can threads before but since you mentioned Saikou Michi I'll throw it up again.

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/1509/img0362a.jpg

After a year of beating the car on the track I was getting a little smoke when going into boost, oil in the intake yada yada yada :D so I installed this guy.

After a couple days of driving I noticed that the smoke was gone, cleaned out the intake (turbo) and ran the car hard. I checked a couple more times in 1000 miles or so and the intake was clean.

This was on my stock turbo setup that saw a spike of 30psi and tapered to 25psi. For my new build (EFR 9180) I will be drilling out the cover where the factory ports come out and install either -8 or -10 lines going to a vented can with a baffle and a breather. I'll make a return to the oilpan as well just so I won't have to drain it manually.

it wont work properly if you have it plumbed into the oil pan unless that line has a check valve in it.

Thats right. I just didn't throw that in the post! :lol: Wouldn't want to misinform anyone! Running one without some sort of valve would be a waste. {thumbup}

This should help

http://www.mellontuning.com/index.ph...roducts_id=191

BUSCHUR RACING CATCH CAN

Included in the kit is a modified, new dipstick. You simply remove your old dipstick, replace it with the new one and run the hose from the bottom of the catch can back into the dipstick. This also acts as another port to relieve crank case pressure. You end up with 3 ports to vent crankcase pressure rather than the 1 factory port. This does free up some horsepower.

this cans known to get water contaminated. when i was gonna get one i got 10 pm's from people saying not to get it cause they had milky substances coming out of their can. dont know if its cause they installed it wrong or what, but thats why im avoiding it. anyone else wanna comment why this happens with this can?

There was a guy who had the water issue but he said it only happened if he used the dipstick return to oil pan port.. not sure if this is accurate .. :updown:

All cans get that, thats why i wouldnt drain it back to the pan.