Im thinking about picking one up
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I have the whiteline front sway bar(26mm) and the whiteline rear sway bar(24mm). I have found through my auto-x experience that the size of the bar is going to make your suspension stiffer in the corners but only if the end-links are setup properly.
I was experimenting with my end-link position in the rear and I adjusted the bar to soft and spaced out my endlinks as far as possible away from the bar. Leaving a safe amount of thread so the nut could be properly tightened. With this setup I found that the rear end would tripod way less but the tendency to under-steer was high. I have tripoded on the stock setup before and it felt less responsive than the stock rear sway bar. Suspension tuning can do wonders. |
Originally Posted by BEKevo
(Post 10904920)
Interesting product from Whiteline. Called a "lateral lock" for the swaybar. Looks like another nice option as well.
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=KLL122 Buy them and see if they install easily and work to keep the bar from moving laterally. :-) |
Originally Posted by deylag
(Post 10904933)
I have the whiteline front sway bar(26mm) and the whiteline rear sway bar(24mm). I have found through my auto-x experience that the size of the bar is going to make your suspension stiffer in the corners but only if the end-links are setup properly.
I was experimenting with my end-link position in the rear and I adjusted the bar to soft and spaced out my endlinks as far as possible away from the bar. Leaving a safe amount of thread so the nut could be properly tightened. With this setup I found that the rear end would tripod way less but the tendency to under-steer was high. I have tripoded on the stock setup before and it felt less responsive than the stock rear sway bar. Suspension tuning can do wonders. What springs are you using for this,Deylag? What LSD ? What front endlinks are you using? Im guessing the spring rate upfront is not enough and allows the car to roll over in the front and overload the outside front despite the thicker bar there. This will also unload the inside front tire and cause some spin on the inside front. All this adds up to loss of total grip on the end you need it most. softening the rear bar wont really help much as you have not addressed the overall roll of the car. Having the rear tires on the ground works best when the LSD is active and that is under throttle...IMHO. it also requires the lsd to function well which is why the TRE or Shep diffs transform the car from the apex forward and the acd tune fixes the turn-in by unlocking, and to the apex and forward by locking up better Other than that you might be going into the corner too late too hot, Scotty :-) JK |
Originally Posted by WRC-LVR
(Post 10909000)
spacing the endlinks out from the bar puts undue pressure on the bolts and creates angular forces you dont want. I see what you were trying to do, basically soften the rear bar enough but I would not do it that way..
What springs are you using for this,Deylag? What LSD ? What front endlinks are you using? Im guessing the spring rate upfront is not enough and allows the car to roll over in the front and overload the outside front despite the thicker bar there. This will also unload the inside front tire and cause some spin on the inside front. All this adds up to loss of total grip on the end you need it most. softening the rear bar wont really help much as you have not addressed the overall roll of the car. Having the rear tires on the ground works best when the LSD is active and that is under throttle...IMHO. it also requires the lsd to function well which is why the TRE or Shep diffs transform the car from the apex forward and the acd tune fixes the turn-in by unlocking, and to the apex and forward by locking up better Other than that you might be going into the corner too late too hot, Scotty :-) JK You have a couple good points. Here is some info on my setup: Suspension Mods All around: Carbing Six Point Ladder Brace JRZ RS1 Coilovers JRZ Camber Plates Eibach Tender Springs Eibach Springs Spring Rates: FR:600 Lb/in RR:650 Lb/in Tires: 255/40/17 Hankook RS3 Wheels: Jungle Grey 17X9 +35 5ZIGEN FNO1R-C Front: Whiteline Roll Center Kit: KCA395 Whiteline Steering Precision Kit: KCA387 Perrin PSRS-Offset: PEPSUS400 Whiteline 26mm Front Sway Bar: BMF48 Robispec Control Arm Lower Inner Front Spherical Bushing Homemade Adjustable Front Endlinks Ultra Racing Front Fender Braces AMS Front Cross Beam Member Rear: DME Rear Toe Arms AFI Adjustable Lower Control Arms Robispec Rear Trailing Arm Sphericals Homemade Adjustable Rear Endlinks Whiteline 24mm Adjustable Rear Sway Bar Weir Performance 12 plate Rear Diff Swap EM Racing Z-bar Trunk Cage Suspension tuning is an ongoing educational process for me. To be clear, I only noticed the touch of understeer on maybe the first turn but after my tires warmed up it was similar to driving a FWD car. It didn't have the complete FWD characteristics but the rear had way less response than my previous rear end-link setup. I am sorry in advance for being off-topic. |
Originally Posted by WRC-LVR
(Post 10908988)
Yeah those have flatws on the sides to help install.....other than that they look identical to those from McMaster Carr.
Buy them and see if they install easily and work to keep the bar from moving laterally. :-) Also,those look pretty beefy and clearance between the bar and the subframe might be questionable. If those things rub couldn't it bind up the natural motion of the bar changing the way it performs? Ive heard of some folks who have had issues with the small bolts that hold the two piece collar just stripping out or not clamping down tight enough to actually stop the bar from sliding. These folks later ditched them for regular hose clamps,lol -just what I been told, ymmv. |
I feel like sway bars are one of the best mods on any car.
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Originally Posted by MTevo05
(Post 10910717)
I feel like sway bars are one of the best mods on any car.
Ya. With the evo its all about what type of racing and what the rest of your current setup is. For example I have a stock rear swaybar and at this point with my setup, I don't feel upgrading to a larger rear bar would be beneficial. |
^ same here. I see it too often where people have ridiculous sway bars and don't have the suspension to compliment the benefits of having one.
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Originally Posted by TommiM
(Post 10910586)
The tanabe is a 25.4mm, maybe I missed it but I didn't see that size on there.
Also,those look pretty beefy and clearance between the bar and the subframe might be questionable. If those things rub couldn't it bind up the natural motion of the bar changing the way it performs? Ive heard of some folks who have had issues with the small bolts that hold the two piece collar just stripping out or not clamping down tight enough to actually stop the bar from sliding. These folks later ditched them for regular hose clamps,lol -just what I been told, ymmv. Dont ask me how to orient them as I havent tried it |
Originally Posted by MTevo05
(Post 10910717)
I feel like sway bars are one of the best mods on any car.
IMHO :-) Sorry back on topic. |
Robispec springs and TRE max lock rear diff, awesome first mods to your evo{thumbup}
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Originally Posted by WRC-LVR
(Post 10914532)
Yep hose clamps can work as well and cheaper but id use t bolts to get a bit more holding power.
Dont ask me how to orient them as I havent tried it I tried using high torque clamps, and iirc I ended up putting them both on the inner side of each bushing. Once the bar was centered as best as possible, the inner section provided the most level surface to put a clamp on. What I didn't like was that since the clamp itself is reather flat except for the screw section, it ends up digging into the bushing and can cause premature tearing. Something like a collar works better as it wont tear into the bushing, but your just more limited to space. Between the firewall, power steering lines, and the crossmember, your limited to space. Im not saying those collars wont work, I honestly don't know since I haven't tried them. Im just saying whatever you chose to use just be cautious that theres not a whole bunch of room to work with. |
Originally Posted by BEKevo
(Post 10898228)
Is it a "good bang for your buck"? Absolutely. I've driven a couple Evo's on the track (buttonwillow/ laguna seca) with them and I'm convinced this is the sway bar that I'd love to put out front of my Evo as well. And for some credibilty, I also know out of the several Evo 8/9's that have won the solo2 SCCA series, they were using these sway bars as well. So they're doing something right ;)
Originally Posted by WRC-LVR
(Post 10903448)
I have a recollection that the Tanabe is a hollow bar that is welded together in the middle. This failed on someone's track car, not sure But i thought it was Evolutionary too.
That being said, I'm going with a different setup now, and my Tanabe front bar is for sale, if anyone's interested... and here's my step-by-step how-to on swapping the front bar: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ring-rack.html |
Originally Posted by WRC-LVR
(Post 10903499)
sorry for the confusion. I do remember one of the bars being hollow and someone having an issue with it. Bugs me i cant find it now though..
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