I have the same lug nuts that sat around for over a year.

 

mine are better. they sat around for 2 years.

 

nothing like lightweight aged titanium...

 

I just did some quick calculations in my head. In rotational weight alone I shaved off 40lbs. This comes from the new rims, tires, lugs, driveshaft, rotors. That is damn good IMO. Add that to the other stuff and the car should be right around 2660 with cage, sunroof, full interior, power everything, bla bla bla. Damn I can't wait to get to the track. If I can't run 9s consistently then I'm selling this car and buying a Hyundai.

 

That's good stuff Dan!

 

Don't worry Dan your car makes plenty of power.......the tires along with the weight you have taken out will net you 9 sec passes all day long

2660 with all the stuff you listed seems pretty darn good to me!

 

That's a a good weight. I think my car was 2700 when I went 9s and you should be making a good bit more power than me. The consistency all comes down to driving though.

 

Thanks everyone.

Wheatley we all know I can't drive haha. Let's hope this year I learn something with the new setup. I'd like to see 9.5s but let's work on finishing the car first lol

 

that is just crazy light... I can't even phathom my car being that light, its a good thing I can least manipulate numbers in my weight reduction spreadsheet to make my car have that imaginary weight

 

I agree, weight doesn't do much at all if you can't drive. I would go to the track and focus on your 60's- don't do a full pass. Get them in the mid 1.4 range and you should be seeing great times The biggest thing is getting your clutch out as fast as possible without breaking or bogging.

 

I think the new rim & tire setup should help Dan a lot. 1.4 60 ft with some NLTS action should put him mid to low 9s!! DO IT DAN!!

 

kind of a quick thought. would it be possible to put the power steering pump where the ALT is and the ALT where the PS pump is? yes custom brackets would need to be made BUT the PS lines would be shorter, away from the turbo manifold and the ALT power wire will be shorter as well. i do not know how you guys run your custom power wires. but mine go's from the starter to the alt and then alt to the battery. you could eliminate a good 2 feet of heavy wire. plus i think it would look cleaner.


anyone? should we make a new thread or should i just STFU and go to sleep?

 

Don't want to clutter the other fellows thread in regards to your question above.

Hear me out on this one ...

How about moving the alternator to the front like you say, however mount it UNDER the power steering pump i.e in the location of the AC compressor. Then place your battery in the location where the alternator USED to be. What this will do is decrease the power cabling to maybe 3 feet TOTAL. Not to mention it would clean up all that area above the tranny.

Granted : custom brackets, idler pulley swapping and a custom tensioner would be required.

 

That is also an option. Sounds a little more extreme and involved with making it work though. Battery changes would be a royal pita as well. I like the idea though. I am pretty interested in doing this so I am going to look into it some. Maybe it will work maybe it won't.

 

Just so you know, we are working on that power steering electric pump. Not sure what will become of it but it's on our list and is being worked on.