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03 TB Evo 8

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Old Oct 17, 2013, 08:40 PM
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03 TB Evo 8

I thought I would make this thread to help myself keep up with the modifications I end up doing to it in the future. I landed on the dsm planet when I was about 15. I've worked on several 1g and 2g cars pretty extensively over the past 3 or 4 years, and I decided that I was ready for something a little different with more room. What better idea than the Evo? There's so much more room and you can still go just as fast. I attached a few pictures of my car at the bottom as well for you guys to check out as the updates come rolling in. The timing belt tensioner decided to take a crap on me, so the timing belt was right behind it. 5 valves bent, one sitting in the cylinder, crank pulley warped from the belts wrapping around it? Broke off 3 bolts in the timing sprocket, lost my accessory belt somewhere on the highway, and the car needs a new clutch and a few new gaskets. At the moment, the whole front subframe is dropped out of the car with the engine and transmission. The head has already returned from the machine shop rebuilt with a kit comprised of all oem components and is ready to be installed as soon as I can get a head gasket and a set of head studs here too. Cheers

Here's a few pictures of the Evo.





Attached Thumbnails 03 TB Evo 8-img031.jpg   03 TB Evo 8-img048.jpg   03 TB Evo 8-img083.jpg  

Last edited by SloGST; Apr 4, 2016 at 07:11 PM.
Old Oct 17, 2013, 09:56 PM
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Here's my first update to catch up to the current maintenance the car is undergoing. Just a thing or two here and there I've picked up over time that I thought would make a nice addition to the car.

HKS 272/272 Camshafts - Picked these up from a fellow evom member for $250.


Ebay AMS Style FMIC - Nice upgrade compared to the stock fmic. It seems to work just as well as any 3.5" intercooler would.



JVC head unit - I love this thing, it lets me play my music through an auxiliary port, which is all I need. It was only $70.

Last edited by SloGST; Apr 4, 2016 at 07:16 PM.
Old Oct 17, 2013, 10:27 PM
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Last update. MAYBE. Anyways, moving on from the mods and fast forwarding to current events with the evo.

An oil leak at one of the cam seals eventually broke the belt down I guess, and caused it to break in half. Luckily, the car was barely moving at the time. I was just sitting at a red light when all this happened.

As you can see, not good. Several valves were bent, 2 were broken off in their cylinders.

The good news is, the pistons are still smooth, and there is nothing whatsoever wrong with the bottom end. The valves didn't really seem to lift much of the carbon off the tops when they made contact. The picture was taken after I cleaned them up a good bit. So the bottom end will remain unchanged aside from the new crankshaft pulley it needs, and the new timing kit that I'll be installing.

My plans are to run the stock bottom end as conservatively as I can until I can get it rebuilt to handle more power. Current miles on the shortblock and the car itself is around 122,000.



Over the next several weeks I'll be snapping several pictures of all the parts that are coming in as well to give you guys a better idea of where I stand with this little project. I'm still waiting on a Competition Clutch, ARP Head Studs, a Cometic head gasket, and I need to do a good bit of cleaning up on the timing side and replace a few gaskets to stop a few oil leaks before the head goes back on.

Last edited by SloGST; Apr 4, 2016 at 07:24 PM.
Old Oct 18, 2013, 04:49 AM
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I would just make sure your balance shaft driven off the oil pump isn't seizing up. I had several cars where that starts locking up and shredded the belt. Since the motor is out In would recommend a BS Eliminator Kit.
Old Oct 18, 2013, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by batty200
I would just make sure your balance shaft driven off the oil pump isn't seizing up. I had several cars where that starts locking up and shredded the belt. Since the motor is out In would recommend a BS Eliminator Kit.
I really want to, but I'm really concerned about the metal shavings that will be created by beating/banging the old bearings out and the new ones in.
This video is what stopped me.

Last edited by SloGST; Oct 18, 2013 at 02:44 PM.
Old Oct 18, 2013, 10:06 PM
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Update: Got the engine, trans, and t-case all separated in the short time I had tonight to work on it. Cleaned up the motor a good bit with carb cleaner and brake parts cleaner.

Here's a few pictures of the head after I got it back. Apologies in advance for the quality. I don't have a good camera yet, these were taken from my cell.







Still waiting on parts to reinstall the head, but everything looks great, its all under warranty.

New Timing Cover - Old one was destroyed when the belts started flying off.


New OEM Timing & Balance Shaft Belt.


Walbro 255


Yuuuuuup. I'll let you make what you want of this.


For some reason, I couldn't get the clutch pressure plate to separate from the transmission, so I took the bolts out of it and pulled the transmission with the pressure plate still on it, and thats how it sits now. If anybody could shed some light on that, I would appreciate it.


That's all for now. I'll be updating again in the next day or two. As for now, this is what the evo looks like

Last edited by SloGST; Apr 4, 2016 at 07:34 PM.
Old Oct 19, 2013, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by batty200
I would just make sure your balance shaft driven off the oil pump isn't seizing up. I had several cars where that starts locking up and shredded the belt. Since the motor is out In would recommend a BS Eliminator Kit.
We got the motor out and everything separated and I finally got to check out that balance shaft and it turns nice and easy. I suppose I'll just keep them in for now. Thanks for the warning.

Last edited by SloGST; Apr 4, 2016 at 07:36 PM.
Old Oct 19, 2013, 04:23 AM
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holy crap that clutch was toast! is your flywheel able to get resurfaced? its not damaged in any way from engaging with that flat piece of metal you call a clutch disk? lol great progress!!! sub'd!
Old Oct 19, 2013, 04:31 AM
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about the pressure plate- the release bearing or" throw out" bearing holds the clutch to the transmission, its a pull style tob, did you release it prior to pulling the transmission? im a little confused on how you got to the bolts off to the pressure plate itself! lol
Old Oct 19, 2013, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by minimarine09
holy crap that clutch was toast! is your flywheel able to get resurfaced? its not damaged in any way from engaging with that flat piece of metal you call a clutch disk? lol great progress!!! sub'd!
Haha I know right! It has lots of hot spots on it but its still smooth, I'll probably take it to a machine shop and have it resurfaced. I did try to release it but I guess it's all those all wheel drive launches catching up with me, lol. I actually had a 3/8 drive power tool that fit right in between the clutch fork and the bell housing with a deep 12mm socket, and I just rotated the crank to get all the bolts and pulled them out with a magnet. Thanks for the sub!

Last edited by SloGST; Apr 4, 2016 at 07:37 PM.
Old Oct 19, 2013, 07:42 AM
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yea with a flat head in between the tob and pressure plate, push the fork in so it squeezes the tob, flat head and pressure plate together, then just twist the flat head 90 degrees fighting against the pressure with the fork, it will pop out, it took me forever but it will happen, then after that the pressure plate should come right out. make sure to get a new oem tob too
Old Oct 19, 2013, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by minimarine09
yea with a flat head in between the tob and pressure plate, push the fork in so it squeezes the tob, flat head and pressure plate together, then just twist the flat head 90 degrees fighting against the pressure with the fork, it will pop out, it took me forever but it will happen, then after that the pressure plate should come right out. make sure to get a new oem tob too
Any possibility of damaging the input shaft trying to take off a seized clutch?
Old Oct 19, 2013, 08:16 PM
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i dont think its seized, thats just how you normally disconnect the tob from the pressure plate. you were supposed to do it through the inspection hole when the trans was still connected
Old Oct 19, 2013, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by minimarine09
i dont think its seized, thats just how you normally disconnect the tob from the pressure plate. you were supposed to do it through the inspection hole when the trans was still connected
I'm pretty sure I'll be going back to get that pressure plate off tomorrow, as well as cleaning up the trans, t-case, and subframe. thanks for the helpful information!
Old Oct 20, 2013, 06:07 AM
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No problem! just keep at it, it will pop out


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