So I should have bought an Evo...
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From: WEST SIDE, SD
Yeah only running 8inch with a 235, I would like to run a 285 LOL but thats major modfications, hence the cheapest 10.5 +15 rim I need since this will be a long process. I have to redesign the rear suspension to make it work, but it will be worth it for the hook up on launch
Thanks man. Its really hard to get it to look right in the pics, but they turned out great
I ended up re-torquing them to 95 ft lbs, and they were loose, so I either did it at 85 ft lb the first time or something but they all good now.
I ended up re-torquing them to 95 ft lbs, and they were loose, so I either did it at 85 ft lb the first time or something but they all good now.
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Evolving Member
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From: WEST SIDE, SD
Thanks bro
And thats why I built it. People always gave me crap for the "grandma car" now this thing is built to eat up some vettes and sportbikes. My next galant I want to drop a v8 in it and have it rwd. some time...
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Evolving Member
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From: WEST SIDE, SD
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 301
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From: WEST SIDE, SD
hey guys need some help on this issue.
As soon as I turn the car on, SES light is on. It's been driving fine, but I have 2 codes, and each record twice on the scanner, and even it clears the moment I turn the key off, and if I turn it back on they are right back up.
I have
P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit
The knock sensor has the signal wire and the ground shielding around it. WFT can be the issue? Anybody know how to test a knock sensor? I.E. Resistance or something
P0110 Intake Air Temp Sensor 1 Circuit
I have been converted to SD, so what is this from? I have a AEM 5 bar, is there any way that a bad sensor could cause this code? I'm going to meter the wires for everything right now, but the IAT is resistance based correct?
Need some ideas because the moment I hit 0 on my boost gauge car leans out so bad it starts cutting out. And before anybody asks, both fuel pumps and relays are good, and I manually tested my FPR to 30 psi with an air compressor, and my fuel pressure goes to 70 psi... I'm racking my brain here...
As soon as I turn the car on, SES light is on. It's been driving fine, but I have 2 codes, and each record twice on the scanner, and even it clears the moment I turn the key off, and if I turn it back on they are right back up.
I have
P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit
The knock sensor has the signal wire and the ground shielding around it. WFT can be the issue? Anybody know how to test a knock sensor? I.E. Resistance or something
P0110 Intake Air Temp Sensor 1 Circuit
I have been converted to SD, so what is this from? I have a AEM 5 bar, is there any way that a bad sensor could cause this code? I'm going to meter the wires for everything right now, but the IAT is resistance based correct?
Need some ideas because the moment I hit 0 on my boost gauge car leans out so bad it starts cutting out. And before anybody asks, both fuel pumps and relays are good, and I manually tested my FPR to 30 psi with an air compressor, and my fuel pressure goes to 70 psi... I'm racking my brain here...
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From: WEST SIDE, SD
Nobody has any info as to what could cause a IAT sensor 1 circuit code, when the sensor is good and the outputs ohms to the ecu? I'm leaning towards an ecu issue.... Anybody have any knowledge on what the P0325 code actually means?
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