Sil'vr-Boi6

iTrader: (26)

Wow! a huge congrats on the next phase. how can you go to sleep knowing this gem of parts are right there with you...lol. Got a question if you are doing a custom driveshaft, where are the measures taking from point a to b to insure accuracy of it?

doncarbone

iTrader: (15)

I have a room in my house that has become a shrine of new parts going in to this car lol. I've had to be very, very patient with this project.

We might find upon doing the measurements (basically based off of of these) that an EVO driveshaft will work. There's a relatively strong probability that this will be the case being that the CT9A is just an upgraded CS6A. In either case given that I don't have a stock driveshaft to use from any vehicle, rather than buy a used stock 3-piece, I'll just have an aluminum/chromeoly one made; whether it's designed for the EVO 8/9, or custom. I'd love to do carbon fiber as it takes a lot of stress away from other components, but I'm scared about it cracking.

doncarbone

iTrader: (15)

Not much to report this weekend, just been painting misc items that were purchased used. Killed some rust, primed, painted w/ brake caliper paint (knuckles) and standard engine enamel. The next step is the shell is going in for a roll bar, seam welding and bracing in a few key areas. Until then (1-2 weeks) I'm just reorganizing the inventory of parts and cleaning some things up while everything is off the car...

Attachment 328464
EVO front knuckles, front engine cross-member, timing cover plates/brackets, P/S pump bracket, side cyl-head mount bracket, rear tranny mount bracket, starter shield

brake dust shields I painted in the same rubberized coating I did the rear Outlander subframe in (a bit like a truck bed liner compound):



discovered today the cylinder head passenger mount brackets between the 4G69 and 4G63 are identical with the exception of the mount bolts. For anyone doing a DOHC swap, that's one less thing to worry about:

Attachment 328466

Sil'vr-Boi6

iTrader: (26)

Parts look great and just finished reading that link. $hit learned from that link. What are using to treat the rust? I was doing rotor replacement this past Jan. and noticed excessive rust near my rear subframe/tranny brackets?

doncarbone

iTrader: (15)

I'm using a Rust Converter from my local auto parts store. It seems to work fairly well.

TWM Performance

iTrader: (3)

Wow, lots of time and effort put into this. Definitely paid off!

Renato
Team TWM Performance

floating doc

OK, read through the whole thing. Amazing project and an excellent job of documentation!

I daily drive my sportback, so I don't have any ideas of an AWD swap, but I'm dying to see where this goes from here.

Any further updates?

doncarbone

iTrader: (15)

No major updates at the moment. The car is a few weeks away from having the cage fabricated along with seam welding in the engine bay, the seat mounts and fender bracing.

I was researching and doing some measurements regarding the CT9A's multi-link setup on the back to determine how compatible the EVO components would be (as eventually I'd like to run some nice coilovers like Ohlins). For what it's worth, I ultimately decided to just stick to what I have and deal with possibly relocating the shock towers on the back if I really wanted to run an EVO setup. The Lancer TEINs I have now should still do a good job.

This type of setup (large trailing arm holding the hub + a lower control arm) was what the majority of pre-CT9A evos ran, so it's not weaker, just heavier.

Sil'vr-Boi6

iTrader: (26)

any updates?

doncarbone

iTrader: (15)

Roll bar being fabricated few pics of that below. Will tie in direct through trunk floor to the top of the Outlander subframe. Fender braces are also being thrown on, as well as the FMIC (ETS 4.0").

Other than that engine is going in next week (Aug 6) for assembly and machine work (more on that to come, but preview also pictured below):







Attachment 327934

did some more paint work to the control and trailing arms:



purchased some brembos that need a good clean and a repaint (clear coat fading go figure):



the rear rotors pictured are for test fitment, as the Outlander came with drums, but will try to make these fit.

engine parts all ready to go for next Thursday:

Attachment 327937

doncarbone

iTrader: (15)

few more updates:

1) roll bar is nearly complete. in addition to this, a few areas of the unibody will be stitch welded, fender braces (ultra-racing) are to be bolted up, and the front crash bar will be modified slightly to fit the 4.0" intercooler.

Attachment 327792

Attachment 327793



Attachment 327795

2) All engine parts have been taken to a local shop. This is a 4G69 DOHC 2.4L EVO 9 build. The block has been measured and given the current wear is about 0.0035 over the stock 87mm, we feel safe cleaning it up thou to 0.0045. Pistons are Wiseco asymmetrical K667M87AP with upgraded pins. Going for 9.5:1. These are technically 4G63 pistons. The 4G69 and 4G63 share the same deck height, so an 87mm 4G63 piston is a convenient choice.

Again I'm running into an issue of having to decide if this next phase of the build should be shared in a different thread, but for now I'll post some information here:

Wiseco 4G63 asymm 87mm 9.5:1 pistons K667M87AP
Manley turbo tuff rods 14403-4
K1 billet l/w 100mm crankshaft 100mm
ARP 12pt main studs
Cosworth main bearings, thrust bearings, rod bearings
Cosworth H11 ultra high performance head studs
Cosworth 87mm head gasket, 1.5mm
GSC BSEK
TOMEI oil baffle plate
Mishimoto oil cooler MMOC-EVO-01
Fluidampr harmonic balancer

The full tear down of the 4G69 engine I did this past spring. This first pic always makes me laugh because at the moment i took the picture i swear my dog wasn't in frame but he came in to see what was going in the moment the flash went off:

Attachment 327796

Attachment 327797

Attachment 327798

Attachment 327799

The block was actually in great shape considering it has close to 90,000km now. We're just doing a very light hone 0.0010" over. At 0.0045" I'm told there shouldn't be any piston slap, but even if there is, it should go away once the engine is warm.

Comparison of stock 4G69 rods vs. Manley I-beam:

Attachment 327800

Crankshaft comparison stock 100mm 4G69 (likely a spare crank unless I sell it...):

Attachment 327801

Attachment 327802

Attachment 327803

Attachment 327804



Will post more once the engine build progresses further:

doncarbone

iTrader: (15)

I've updated the first post of this thread with more details about the engine build:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/pr...l#post11319379

doncarbone

iTrader: (15)

roll bar updates:



door braces, fit about a spider's *** hair from the door panels, as close as they can be without touching. they're a bit steep (but about where most sanctioning bodies recommend), but i'll probably do a door bar hinge on these if it's a pain getting in and out:

doncarbone

iTrader: (15)

Small update on the engine...

Block cleaned up and painted, old rusted freeze plugs replaced... GSC balance shaft eliminator bushings in, crankshaft balanced (K1 built a nice crank it was 1 gram out per outside counterweights). Next will be testing rod fitment as the cylinder walls may have to be ground down to accommodate the large Manley rods.



Attachment 327698

Attachment 327699



Attachment 327701





Attachment 327704



More to come soon

doncarbone

iTrader: (15)

few more engine updates...rotating assembly complete:

Attachment 327667

Attachment 327668

Attachment 327669

Attachment 327670

Just as mitsuorder reported in his 4G69 build thread, the very bottoms of the cylinders had to be notched slightly to allow for the large Manley rods to clear safely:

Attachment 327671

In addition, due to the design of the asymmetrical Wiseco pistons used, there was no adequate room under the piston for the small end of the rods to slide up enough to allow for the pin to go through (an oversight on my part as the measurements were available, I just assumed they'd be decently compatible with popular rods and no different than any other 4G63 Wiseco piston...).

It's a bit hard to see from the picture below, but the inside of these pistons rounds inward just after the pin which was touching the outside edge of the rod on either side. About 1.2-1.5mm of material was ground off the rod per side to allow for the pin to fit as well as give the piston a adequate room to breath. I spoke to Manley and they claimed this was not a problem.



Outlined/labelled if the explanation is confusing (i'm no professional so i'm probably lacking a simple technical term that in one word defines what I'm explaining lol):



the x is where they were directly hitting in all 4 corners.