It all started when I blew the engine in the Ralliart, apparently it was not powerful enough for me so I decided to destroy it in a blazing flame of glory. more on that subject here. This little incident kicked off an almost complete but still ongoing project I have named Project "Revolution" (Ralliart Evolution). There was not a lot of information in doing this as i am not even sure it has been done. So as stated over and over in all Evo forms..... "Do it, Post it"..

This thread is kind of a mix between DIY and Project. The overall aspect is a project but I figured maybe a quick rundown would be beneficial as well.

Project Start Date: Mar 14, 2015
Engine first started up: May 29, 2015
Project End Date: Currently in process
(before people say, I could have had this done in a weekend, keep in mind I have done this all on my own and have never done this before)

Here it is. (breakdown/bullet point version) (I will upload pics as soon as I downsize them and pull them from my tablet)


Ralliart Engine Removal

Tip: It is an extremely fantastic idea to label every bolt and part you can as you remove it. I also placed what could fit in ziplock bags into them and annotated what they went to. see below.



All Removed Parts Labeled In Ziplock Bags

• Drain Coolant
• Drain engine oil
• Drain SST oil (this is expensive oil)
• Remove Hood
• Remove all under-body plastics
• Remove bumper (careful not to pull the bumper out to far as you will need to disconnect the fog light plug)
• Remove front tires
• Remove wheel well plastics
• Unplug ABS and undo wire chassis mount points
• Pull ABS wire out as far as possible from wheel well grommet (these break easy, do not attempt to unbolt it from the caliper)
• Remove Rotor assembly to strut bolts
• Remove drive shafts from transfer case and transmission (pry bar will work, should not take a lot of force. Pry between the back of the shaft and the case. Try not to damage the dust seal or rip the boot as the metal shield is easy to bend) then place them out of the way. There is no need to completely remove them.
• Remove intake cold air tube, battery and battery tray
• Remove intake system, including Boost solenoid and BOV lines
• Remove upper black Charge Pipe
• Remove coolant hoses
• Remove fuel lines and vacuum lines
• Remove inter cooler hoses and pipes
• Remove SST cooler lines and Cooler
• Remove entire SST filter assembly
• Disconnect AC lines (if required, rent a refrigerant recycling system to dispose of refrigerant)
  Tip: Depending on what AC compressor the engine comes with on the Evo X your lines may not work. I had to swap the Ralliarts AC compressor to the Evo engine. the Ralliart has a 80cc size and the Evo has a 70cc. As well, the lines compressor mounts are smaller on the Evo.
• Remove Engine ECU
• Undo chassis wire grounds form drivers side
• Remove exhaust manifold covers
• Remove all chassis brackets for battery tray and wire harness mount above transmission
• Remove front vertical cross member with mount
• Remove upper radiator support beam
• Remove crash bar
• Remove Headlights (one bolt/screw is under the white bumper clip in the wheel well)
• Roll up all wire harness for front bar and tie it up out of the way (Drivers headlight hole works well)
• Remove inter-cooler
• Remover entire radiator assembly with fan attached
• Remove power steering lines
• Remove AC lines from compressor
• Remove AC compressor and belt
• Remove transfer case ACD line shield
• Remove transfer case ACD line
• Remove transfer case “stub”.
  Tip: Used an 8 mm bolt welded to a long metal "J" shaped shaft and a block of wood will be a good slide hammer tool for this if you cannot rent one. Wedge the block of wood into the hook on the end and give a good wack.
• Remove front propeller shaft (4 bolts) – unbolt the bolts, let the shaft drop and then remove it slowly from the transfer case. It will just slide out so expect it to drop rather quickly.
• Remove exhaust system or as much as is needed to get to where you need.
• Support engine and transmission with hoist/jack
• Remove the upper engine sway bar. The struts will fall at this point so find a way to support them from dropping to far.
• Remove driver’s side SST mount completely
• Remove passengers’ side engine mount from the engine
• Remove the bolts that secure the transfer case to the transmission
• Remove transfer case. You may have to pry the case from the transmission. Just don’t put the end of the pry bar too deep in between the two or you will damage the seal.
• Once transfer case is loos from the transmission support the transfer case with a jack and lift the engine/transmission up and forward as far as you can get it. At this point you can attempt to finagle the transfer case from between the engine and cross member. This this weighs about 100lbs. so expect a lot of weight to drop once it is free.
• Drop engine/transmission down enough to get to the back transmission mount and remove the mount blot.
• Angle the transmission towards the driver’s side as far as you can get it and lift the engine up while keeping the transmission down. Continue to work it out until the engine clears the bay enough to get the entire assembly from out of the car.
  Watch for power steering lines and wires near the fire wall as there is almost always something in the way or not disconnected.
• Once the engine/transmission assembly is out remove the bolts that attach engine to transmission. (This was much easier out of the car. If you do it while the engine is in the car there is 1 bolt someplace around where the transfer case is that will take you 2 hours to remove and a lot of frustration. Well, at least it did for me).
  You will probably have to pry the two apart as the spline shaft nub has a lot of hold between them. Pry them evenly all the way around. You only need to get them 2 inches apart before the separate completely.

Evo Engine Installation (mechanical)
Tip: Get your long list of torque specs. A good amount came from the Evo X service Manuel and here.

Tip: Be sure to torque the flywheel in stages or warping can occur. The flywheel requires roughly 98 Ft Lbs. I torqued it at 32, waited, 64 waited, then the final 98. I did not see this information in the service manual.

• To marry the engine and transmission together, I hoisted the transmission up over the engine with the spline hole facing down and tilted the engine on its side with the spline adapter facing up. Then I slowly lowered the transmission onto the engine. A lot of patience and turning the transmission was involved to get the two married back. I also threw some oil on the spline adapter to help slide them together.
  Note: some SST fluid may still be lingering around in there so be prepared to clean up ¼ quart of oil from the floor.
  
  
  Transmission Dropped Onto New Engine
  
• After the 2 were together I too this chance to install the new turbo down pipe and bolt the transfer case back in place. I also ran most of the belt and cleaned the crap out of every part I could see.
• Dropping the engine from the top was a bit tricky but not too bad. Transmission goes in first and is angled down. Then slowly drop the engine in making sure the transfer case does not get caught on anything. There is a slight possibility you will have to pry the engine away from the engine bay slightly to assist it into place.
  Once you have the entire assembly back in bolt up the rear mount and if you can, attach the ACD line back to the transfer case. (This is a PITA and may require a touch of patience and a little force, a little, careful not to pull the line too hard, you definitely don’t want any leaks from this component later on).
  
  
  Dropping New Engine In Bay
  
• Now you can put the driver’s side mount back then the passenger side engine mount then the vertical cross member and front mount.
• Reinstall the SST Filter assembly, cooler and lines
• Reinstall AC lines
• If you have an oil cooler, now is the time to install that too.
• Replace radiator, inter-cooler and upper radiator support.
• Install inter-cooler lines, coolant lines, power-steering and fuel lines
• Install all other components listed in removed except the air intake box as this is no longer usable.
• A custom Air intake or an Evo short intake will be required if you are not doing a battery relocation.
  
  
  Custom Intake

Evo engine wire harness vs Ralliart
I have this broken out with the exception of all the fuse pins. I am working on getting it uploaded and hope to have it on here soon. The engine harness is pretty much the same, there are few color differences between the 2 ECU pins. What is going to take me a bit is figuring out exactly what each harness plug is called as I annotated them in a manor only I might understand . I got this information by disassembling the entire engine wire harness from the ralliart while it was connected to the engine. I then traced out every wire and annotated what plug they went to. then looked at every plug on the GSR and annotated every color wire on each corresponding plug. I then looked at them side by side in my excel sheet. to figure out if they went to the same ECU pins. Yah, it took a while.



2 plugs on the GSR engine are not used on the Ralliart. Luckily the Pins they go to in the fuse block are needed for the SST plug. you will have to unpin the long fuse plug and repin it with the ralliart SST plug wires. I suggest numbering every wire before you take the plug end apart as it will explode in your hands and leave you speechless.

I am also still using the Ralliart ECU, which leads to the ongoing next portion..


SST Plug Labled


SST Fuse Plug Wires


Wire Harness Fuse Plug Labled

ECU Pinout Quick Reference

ECU Pin//Plugs (for this Reference - left is passengers)

1 Throttle Body Plug

2 Throttle Body Plug

3 Plug to right of fuel rail on Head (right)

4 Throttle Body Plug

5 Throttle Body Plug

6 Throttle Body Plug

7 Throttle Body Plug

8 Plug to right of fuel rail on Head (right)

8 Plug to right of fuel rail on Head (right)

8 Plug to right of fuel rail on Head (right)

9 Engine to trans Plug (bottom right)

10 Back of Engine top right plug

14 Fuel rail plug 2 (left middle)

15 Fuel rail plug 1 (left)

16 Plug next to fuel pressure regulator (left)

19 Plug to right of fuel rail on Head (right)

22 Water Pump Plug

23 Water Pump Plug

24 Top crank sensor plug (left-middle engine)

25 Engine to trans Plug (bottom right)

26 Back of Engine top right plug

30 Fuel rail plug 4 (right)

31 Fuel rail plug 3 (right middle)

32 Back of Engine top left plug

35 Left Intake manifold plug (rectangular - biggest)

36 Left Intake manifold plug (rectangular - biggest)

37 Left Intake manifold plug (rectangular - biggest)

39 Top crank sensor plug (left-middle engine)

44 Right Intake Manifold Plug

45 Bottom crank sensor plug (left-bottom engine)

51 Alternator Plug

52 Alternator Plug

53 Alternator Plug

54 Power Steering Plug

Refill the Fluids

• SST - Diaqueen SSTF-1 (2 Full Cans)
• Engine - Motul Synthetic Engine Oil 8100 5W30 (1-5L)
• Coolant - Prestone Dex (2)
• Transfer Case - Mitsubishi Diaqueen LSD Gear Oil (1 Qt) unless you spill more
• ACD- Mitsubishi Diamond ATF SP III - (1 Qt)
  Tip: Make sure you buy your own fluid unless the mitsu dealership near you knows what the hell they are talking about or looking at. I asked the parts guy specifically for ACD fluid, not for the transfer case, but for the reservoir in the trunk. So what does he give me.. LSD Gear oil. It seems that they don't know the transfer case houses both components living with separate fluids or that the reservoir in the trunk is for the ACD and not the transfer case.

Mods/Parts

• Evo X GSR engine
• Evo X FMIC
• Evo X Ultimate Racing Upper FMICP
• Evo X Ultimate Racing Lower FMICP
• Evo X Tomei 3” turbo downpipe
• Ralliart Magnaflow 3” cat back exhaust
• Ralliart Ultimate racing 3” HFC with mini muffler
• Flowmaster universal inline 3” hushpower muffler
• SSP Ralliart/Evo X 5.8lb flywheel - The OEM flywheel is 12.6lbs
• GFB Deceptor pro blow off valve
• GFB 3 port EBCS and controller
• Deatschwerks DW65c 265lph
• COBB AP
• Custom Short Ram Intake
• Oil cooler
• AEM AFR Guage
• Prosport Evo Series EGT Guage

Pics


New Engine Awaiting Prep


Engine Removed


New Engine Flywheel Installed


Installed Parts


A Little Dress Up
Dyno Sheet


Engine Bay


Side Shot


Next up is the installation of my not yet purchased Injector Dynamics ID850-EVOX fuel injectors and a retune.
Will have ECUFlash and EvoScan setup with an openport an a netbook mounted in vehicle to do some tuning. Good Times!

 

Quite a build you did there! Looks like the hard work paid off!! How's it driving so far?

 

It was a ton of work. I can tell you the hours just flew by as I sat in the garage listening to Moogs (from Mighty Car Mods) soundtracks and other types of music similar in nature.

Oddly enough, despite the large amount of work and frustration at times, I still had a good time on the build.

So far I have only driven up and down my road twice (roughly 1/2 mile), shifted through all gears to make sure they were good and work the fluids into the system, also tried "auto" and "manual" modes to make sure they were good.

I didn't want to get on it as the map is still for a ralliart and it was making me a little nervous knowing the fuel trims are not up to par

I don't want to take it too far or drive it too much without bleeding the ACD system.

 

Based on the level of technical expertise that you have shown I am surprised that you haven't bleed the ACD fluid.

Its high pressure system with a pump. Unplug the connector to the pump and connect 12 volt power source to it. If you have a switch that's even better. Then you can turn the pump on and off to move the fluid and bleed the air out of the system.

 

Very scary putting all that weight on the crankshaft while installing the transmission. No way in the world would I have done this but it seems like you lucked out. As far as the harness differences, it should have been all plug and play if you would have taken all the sensors and stuff off your RA engine and you would have saved a ton of time there. Very good write up either way. Hope it all works out and it is back to having fun with it soon. By the way, I posted on your other post about the engine parts being different. The long block between an EVO X and a Ralliart share the exact same internal parts. No differences at all.

 

Great write up!!
Thank you very much for taking the time to do this.

What was total cost? (including tune, but also mitigated by selling of the old engine/components)

 

The link to "here" references a thread in the Evo 1 - 9 forums. Are they the correct torque specs for an Evo X?