Hopefully you can get something out of them, like your money back minus the hard parts that are likely still fine (crank, rods, pistons, bearings, studs, etc). At the very least it will need a hone and rings to resolve oil consumption. Those wiseco HD's will be fine opening up the PTW half a thou or so from a hone. That's if the bore is even what they say it is.

 

I followed the MAP recommended process outlined on their website. I used Amsoil SAE30 Break in oil just like they said, changed the oil at the right intervals, and did vacuum pulls with less than half throttle.

https://www.maperformance.com/pages/...k-in-procedure

This process lasted for more than 500 miles which is exactly what they asked me to do. The funny part is MAP has a very clean way of doing things, so I never expected this. The engine didn't burn any oil at all during the break in process.

-pal215

 

Yeah, even their break in procedure pretty much sucks...lol.


However, break in did not cause this issue. Poorly seated rings will usually just result in some excess blow by but won't lead all the way to smoke. Especially not 2k miles later.

 

Your compression numbers seem very low. I have a built 2.3l as well and my compression numbers are much higher. See my review on my engine built by Tom (TSCOMPTUNED). Unfortunately, I have been in your shoes where a very reputable engine builder in the industry gave me a poorly assembled short block

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...roject-mj.html

 

You have a beautifully built engine Slvrnblk and Congratulations on the recent review. It made CT9A's look really good!

It really is sad that shops still take people for a ride these days making us redo things over and over and over again. You know what deeply sucks about this? I was actually between going with Tom/TScomptuned and MAP. After weeks of talking to both shops, I was sitting at the computer and I sent out two emails at the same time, one to MAP and one to Tom. I decided that the first person to respond to my email is getting $4k and my short block. MAP responded the next day and Tom responded two weeks later. I should have stuck out the two weeks and sent it over to Tom, but there were enough good reviews on here at the time from both shops that it didn't seem like I could go wrong with either. My blueprint sheet proves otherwise.

Tom, if you ever read this, I am sorry that I did not go with you brotha. Now I'll pay the price.

-pal215

 

Did another compression and leak down test today after finalizing the pump gas map with my tuner. These are the corrected values of the compression tester.

C1: 125psi, 3%
C2: 121psi, 4%
C3: 126psi, 2%
C4: 127psi, 3%

This doesn't make any sense.

-pal215

 

Very confusing that leak down is so good, while compression is low.

 

I agree. Could it be that the extra oil in the cylinders is screwing with the numbers ? I'd think that would just raise compression if anything.

-pal215

 

Did you clean the oil off the turbo and see if it came back?


Also, when does it smoke? Accel? WOT? decel? idle?

 

I have had this exact same issue on my SR20 engine.. couldn't figure that out.. leak down numbers were perfect, compression was way lower than that though, mine was also only on one cylinder.. but I rebuilt the engine, new rings, different block, different pistons, the works.. Same exact issue!!

End up my Jim Wolf intake cam was bent like .003" (that's what they said, I think the lobe was messed up) and that was just enough to pump up the lash adjuster while the engine was running. Put the stock intake cam in, and it ran perfect.

 

Rany's engine has other symptom's besides weird/poor test results though. It's consuming a lot of oil and smoking.

 

I did not, but I'll give it a shot. Imagine if this whole issue turns out being a blown turbo seal? That would go against the fact that the cylinders look wet though. From the driver seat I can only see it smoking under Mid to WOT and mostly during the first two pulls. After that it kinda clears out and the smoke gets much lighter and hard to see. No visible smoke at idle even during a cold start.

-pal215

 

A truly blow turbo will leak all the time. And it require quite a bit of shaft play for them to leak. They don't actually use "seals" they're literally called piston rings...LOL. An they work on the differential pressure between the housings to keep the oil in. That's why minimizing/eliminating crankcase pressure is important.

 

Lol, I can see how that can confuse the hell out of someone. "Hey Bro, did you replace your piston rings?" "Nah, my turbo is fine"

So I'm guessing that crank case pressure destroys that pressure differential between the two metal rings and oil seeps out because the seal is metal to metal and not rubber/viton to metal? I've clocked turbos, but never took apart their seals.

-pal215

 

It's not even really metal-to-metal. Then ring kind of float in a groove. But, yes, they rely on an oil slinger that slings oil away from the seal, and that the pressure in the turbine/comp housing be higher than the pressure inside the CHRA. So crankcase pressure can have 2 fold issues. It may not allow the turbo to drain, causing the CHRA to fill up and leak, or too much pressure can cause a leak. IN a JB turbo, once the oil goes through the bearing, it's essentially a gravity drain. So minimizing crankcase pressure and ensuring the return line is free flowing is important.


MotoIQ did a good write up on it. http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...eshooting.aspx


But I don't think you have those issues.