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I am working on the tune. The blue line is the 11blade 20g and the red is my current setup. Like any moron I want to see that magic 400whp number, so that is what I am aiming for.
What I am thinking is holding me back is the Apexi intake. Before with the 11 blade GTX 20g I had the AEM intake installed. I like the Apexi MAF housing / filter because of the sound it produces. But the heck with sound if it is costing me power. I have another tune loaded into the car now, and hope to get the data on how it performs. That big fat gain in the mid range COULD be due to the 7+7 turbo and cast MAP manifold OR it could be due to better tuning. I am a bit more aggressive than I was with the previous setup.
Finally installed the radium fuel pump hanger/reservoir and walbro 255 fuel pump (replacing CNT pump currently installed).
Hoping that since I am on 93 octane and only making 400 or so to the wheels, that I won't have a left hand lean issue. Probably will keep her above 1/4 tank at all times.
My plan of using a lifting pump with quad auto-closing fuel pickups fell apart. The magnets I had attached to the fuel pickups were not strong enough. If they were strong enough I would then not be able to get them pushed over to the passenger side. I had to abandon my half-brained idea after I did get one pickup to the passenger side but it wouldn't stay flat (despite three magnets around pickup). I would need to cut the tank open to truly get everything laid out correctly. I think I will be ok given my configuration and fuel.
Today I yanked out my 3.5" Depo intercooler and am replacing it with a CP-E intercooler. Here is the summary of the CP-E intercooler vs. my current DEPO model:
1.) Cast end tanks vs. welded
2.) Staggered internal fin packs (both have that)
4.) Titan finish looks fantastic, DEPO never looked good ever.
5.) 20x13x4 versus 20x12x3.5
5.) Made in the USA vs. China
I am not sure what I am going to gain with this upgrade. I sold my DEPO intercooler, and the CP-E unit was on sale and looked like a solid piece so I jumped on it.
We shall see if it opens up any gains.
High quality kit. Included STOCK compatible coupler, stainless t-bolt clamps (x4), etc. The DEPO unit did not come with any of that. End brackets are CNC and the mounting plate attached to the cooler that bolts to the car is also CNC and TIG welded. Very nice construction. Clear instructions also.
For the MAF and the MAP two days each of to/from data was acquired with wideband (2hr+2hr). Total samples was around 62k (x2) in each mode in closed loop vac, and around 1.5k (x2) samples in open loop boost. The MAF curve is easier to tune since it is just a 2d curve. The MAP table is a trickier beast, and so my coverage was not as good as I had hoped:
Forgive me if I missed it, but what ECU and tuning software is this?
Still working on the tune. In the meantime I decided to address the SST filter issue.
Market options:
1.) OEM filter gets clogged up very quickly (10kmi) and costs 80-100 bucks. Filters well (estimated at 10microns).
2.) Stainless mesh filters are reusable but do not filter well (30-50 micron). Couldn't pay me to install.
I searched for a solution. I wanted a high flow rate 10 micron. Couldn't locate one for high temperature.
I settled on 15 micron and high flow. Since I already have -8 AN pushlock hose running from the filter housing to two coolers, this should be easy to integrate.
The OEM SST filter gets ditched. It will be mounted next to the oil filter housing.
That does look good! However I have one (soon two) air to fluid coolers and one fluid-fluid cooler. I am concerned that I am going to induce to much flow restriction with three coolers off the sst mechanical pump. The stock size filter is just so small. With only a handful of quarter mile passes and 15kmi the oem sst filter was a clogged up completely burned up hot mess. This 14 dollar huge filter shouldn't impede the flow at all. Unscrew and replace quickly and cheaply. If your not hanging coolers off the stock pump that kozmic filter looks like a great option.
Frustrated that I was having problems breaking 400 at the wheels; I cheated. I went E85. Now since I have ID1000's I need to keep a close eye on my injector duty cycle. Also, the Walbro 255 pump MAY be a concern so I decided to look into that.
here is the flow chart for the pump:
So it appears that it flows 45 gal/hr at 12v at 73 psi and
56 gal/hr at 13.5v at 73 psi
These numbers are with GASOLINE not E85. So let's calculate the supported HP for the alcohol fuel with 12v powering the pump:
45 gal/hr x 6.2 lb/gal = 279 lb/hr
279 lb/hr / .63 BSFC = 443 HP on E85 at 12v to the pump
now for 13.5v
56 gal/hr x 6.2 lb/gal = 347.2 lb/hr
347.2 lb/hr / .63 BSFC = 551 HP on E85 at 13.5v to the pump
This is why it is required to hardwire the Walbro 255 pump with a relay directly to the battery with beefy cables if your running E85. I ordered a DW kit to do just that.
I am working on the tune, but at low(er) boost of 24-25psi it made 410 whp using the same VD method on the same road that made 220hp stock.
On the 8th of August I will see what the 1/4 time will be.
I installed the remote 15 micron filter for the SST fluid. It didn't go as smoothly as I had hoped. In the end, I now have a 14 dollar spin-off filter that is easy to get to and will provide little to NO pressure drop unlike the OEM filter.
Large red filter is the 15 micron filter shown in post #22. It replaces the factory tiny filter.
Bracket made from complete scratch. Rough cut since no one is going to see it.
The factory filter was starting to bulge at 4kmi !!! Last interval was around 15kmi for changing the OEM SST filter and fluid, and the SST filter looked like it should had been changed eons ago!
The bulging doesn't indicate that it's clogged. The fluid flows from the outside to then inside. But I do agree, the factory filter is WAY too small to filter ~7-8L of fluid for anywhere near the factory interval.
The bulging doesn't indicate that it's clogged. The fluid flows from the outside to then inside. But I do agree, the factory filter is WAY too small to filter ~7-8L of fluid for anywhere near the factory interval.
Yeah I figured that huge upgraded filter has lots of benefits:
1.) substantially cheaper
2.) holds more particles & dirt by a massive amount
3.) has lower flow restriction : 32 GPM !
4.) easier to change - I know I am reaching on that one
5.) Similar if not better micron multipass filtration
It is actually shocking how small the OEM SST filter is. I was unable to find data on the flow rate for the internal mechanical SST pump. Road/Race Engineering had success with TWO coolers hanging off the OEM SST filter housing (with a stock SST filter). I have two coolers, soon to be three and hopefully this modification keeps the flow restriction (and thus pressure) in check.
Collecting parts for the 2 liter surge tank. Also figuring out how to wire the pump so it doesn't overrun the stock FPR and 1/4" return line.
The pump I ended up buying is the deatschwerks DW350IL. I couldn't find ANY other external inline E85 compatible pump that wasn't WAAAYYY too much flow and/or a thousand dollars. I have contacted them asking for flow rates at 9v. The pump is rated for a minimum of 8v. The pump will spend a lot of its life sitting at 9v, so I am very hopeful it will last. The fittings and hose I just received from raceflux. I have bought them before (improved racing), just not directly from them. They make good stuff. When you buy direct from them you get a discount and a 365 day return policy. Double awesome. I have made PTFE lines before, and it isn't fun. Don't get me wrong.....PTFE is #1 for E85 fuel delivery, however a close runner up is Viton. They offer a E85+ hose that is Viton cored and what is nice is they are super easy to assemble and the hose is extremely bendable. So I went with that hose instead of PTFE. Side note: I only use PTFE in the engine compartment.
Here is the dual voltage circuit I came up with that uses a Honeywell 10psi (adjustable) pressure switch to flip from 9v to BAT for the DW350il pump. The Walbro 255 in the tank will be ECU controlled to only flip to full power at a high load... maybe 240+ load.
So now that I have decided to use a pressure switch to trigger the DW350il to be powered from 9v to 13.5v, when SHOULD I have it switch to a higher voltage? The pressure switch I bought was for 10psi but can be adjusted for 8psi. If you have the switch give full power to the pump TOO late then you could go lean (BOOM!). If you have the pump switch to full power TOO early then you can run super rich by overrunning the stock FPR and 1/4" return line (safe error).
Well deatschwerks ran a flow test @9v with the DW350il to provide a flow curve. I then took a good amount of data (50k+ samples) and plotted my boost versus injector duty cycle and the DW350il pump capability @9v.
Here are the results for MY setup. Yours may and will vary from this.
It is specific for:
1.) E85
2.) stock base fuel pressure
3.) ID 1000 injectors scaled for my car
fuel injector % versus boost and DW350il @9v
Before anyone says it, yes I am getting VERY close to the limit of the ID 1000's. I am monitoring this and planning for ID 1300's if it is warranted.
This shows that for 10psi I still have considerable margin, and everything below 10psi is super fine for the DW350il @9v. Now since we all now you can fly pretty fast past 10psi, I am first going to try 8psi thus err on the side of caution. As long as a SLOW boost increase into 8psi doesn't cause an overrun of the FPR or return line, I would leave it at 8psi. This should be an easy test to do.
Deatschwerks was super awesome in responding to my inquiry on flow information for the pump at that specific voltage. I really hope the product is as good as their tech support! It was the only external inline pump that supported E85 and wasn't either a GRAND of cash or WAY over my flow requirements.
Jun 22, 2018, 04:30 PM
