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I would put it in the return from the rail, or on the feed from the surge tank to the rail. Those two will give you the quickest response time to what E% is going into the engine.
If you put it between the main tank and the surge tank, it will take longer for the content in the surge tank change.
Letsgetthisdone - I wish I read your post earlier. I would have put it on the rail return as you suggested. That should be the most accurate and responsive. Instead I put it on the INPUT to the surge tank from the main tank, which still has to mix in the surge box before being sucked out and pushed to the engine. Hopefully this doesn't cause me grief later. I don't plan on jumping to random mixes of ethanol just for fun constantly. I could also add a pump-on switch to mix up the fuel while I am filling.
added ethanol content sensor Fuel tank access hatch
So I have been working on my E85 tune. Tomorrow I am hitting the 1/4mile track to race my brother in his live axle 2011 Mustang GT. This is a once a year grudge match thing we do.
Here are my results from all of this work. Blue was done in 4th gear and Red was done in 3rd gear. Runs were done about 2 minutes apart. Ethanol content gauge is reporting E80.
My clutch pack isn't too happy in 1st and 2nd. A bit of slipping is going on. Might only do ONE or maybe TWO passes.
I think getting into the 11's is a given!!
Any guesses on what she will run?
Well I beat my brother with his Mustang 2011 5.0 !!
Video to come. He keeps saying he is going to WHIPPLE the thing, and if that happens I won't be doing this anymore. We only race once a year as brotherly grudge match. Straight line racing isn't really my thing.
My timeslip works out to a 0-60 of 3.44s which I think is pretty quick!
That's exactly right. My goal was to limit the torque and then carry it as flat and as far as I can. It makes the car feel like it has a constant thrust of power because the torque doesn't really fall off!!
I am also limiting 1st and 2nd gear substantially to save my clutches and block on launch. That's probably why I don't have a 11.5s time slip or something more representative of the power it makes in 3rd gear +
The dual voltage big pump controller is working like a champ. Controlled by factory ECU load/rpm curve. The final installation added one more solid state relay in the front by the fuse box under the hood (four total for final design). Should I revise the drawing to show this and post it here, or do you think I should do a separate post covering the construction and design of the fuel pump controller ? I am not sure if the Evo community usually does a full progressive controller solution, or tackles it with BIG FPR and return lines? My solution is innovative in that it does exactly what the OEM ECU commands at all times but with a high current limit (25amps for my install, could have been 40amps with beefier wires) and no moving parts to break.
In my install it controls the pump from the surge tank to the fuel rail, with the in-tank 255 locked at 9v, but someone could use my design to control ONE BIG fuel pump and not have to worry about fuel pressure issues, especially since you can set the base voltage via laptop to almost anything you want. FYI - I am running my DW350il at 8.5v for the low voltage setting; manual says minimum of 8v.
Does this fuel pump controller warrant its own thread, or am I delusional that anyone will re-create this design?
I have been asked by forum members to post a thread just for the dual voltage controller. (and Construct above). I have been loaded with work and family and will try to get to this by this weekend. I should add that everything I post is only the ramblings of a lunatic and any ideas, suggestions, or recommendations are provided as entertainment and any work you perform on your car (or others) is done at your own risk.
Snow tires (on enkeis) with cloned pressure sensors are mounted now - handling goes into the toilet.....
Running down my last tank of E85 for the winter.
I did jack the car up. Tarp under it. Air compressor charged. 3m gas mask. Walnut shells loaded in sand blaster gun - I go under the car and there is literally almost no rust. That is 6 winters deep in the North East of CAR EATING SALT AND SNOW... so apparently my aggressive rust proofing and rust removal procedure is paying off. However, I forgot to do the SHOCK bodies. Ever. They have a good amount of rust. Little did I know those puppies are $615 - PER SIDE (fronts)… WTF is up with that !?
So I sprayed them down with fluid film. Too late to do anything better. Hopefully that slows the decay process a bit. I had no idea those Bilsteins were made of gold...
I bought some fluid film but I haven't applied it yet. My plan was to hit any rusty spots with a wire wheel to remove surface rust, clean/prep/coat bare spots with POR-15, then just liberally apply fluid film. Would I be better off buying a cheap sandblasting gun and walnut media from Harbor Freight?
Sandblasting is the way to go, but you do need a large air compressor. I have a 33 gallon craftsman, and it can keep up. When I bought the car I extended the factory undercoat (it was even skimpier than my wifes KIA sportage) with NAPA rubberized underbody spray. A few years later I sandblasted ANY rust with black beauty and then painted POR-15 in those areas. Then I covered the POR-15 with rubberized undercoat. The fluid film I use with a 52" extension to do ALL drain holes and underbody holes, and frame items that are hollow. Fluid film is great for areas like that, but not where it will just see constant water. Fluid film CAN and WILL wash off if exposed to constant water spray. So far this level of lunacy has paid off. The shock bodies I forgot about. Its a pain to remove them for sand blasting and POR-15, so I just coated them with fluid film. I just didn't realize they were so expensive and viewed them as expendable.
Sep 30, 2018, 11:50 AM
- handling goes into the toilet.....