Good 8 hours in the garage today...finally!

Idler and belt tensioner reinstalled:


Starter installed:


New slave installed...after working the clutch fork to engage the clutch collar successfully! Then bled all the black fluid out - first time I've gotten to work the pedal while someone else turns the bleeder - nice! And big news is we have full clutch movement - little concerned over the twin disk install:


Then to the intercooler pull and rinse out of debris and in this case quite a bit of oily residue which I would expect is normal:


Simple Green to the rescue! Rinsed several times...:


Drying setup...that hairdryer has many garage hours on it!:


Drained the transmission...hadn't been serviced recently - the rather impressive drain plug magnet contained an impressive amount of debris:


Assistant went about refilling the box with nearly 2 quarts of fluid until she mentioned it seemed to be draining out another hole in the transmission! Well, guess we should wait to refill until the transfer case is install - appear to share some fluid pathways...oops.

We did arrange the shifter cables appropriately and popped them on (missing the hardware though!)...and we have gears! Little lady couldn't wait to hop in and do some gear jamming! Shifter seems a ok...at least statically.

Much time was used finding the correct or close enough bolt from the stash. Couple of cases we resorted in trimming a few threads - interesting she loves the Dremel...so did I as a kid (and adult)!:


Transfer case weigh in...59.6 pounds:


Fun shot:

 

Shot of the inbound exhaust:


Full 3 inch, 200 cell cat, and extra quiet build (longer muffler/resonator).

 

Second order of 'T' adapter fittings arrived - this time German made vice the Speedway Motors in Nebraska (Chinese!). The first attempt did not have enough taper on the threads to allow even starting thread engagement. Hopefully these are acceptable as these seem to be geared toward hot water systems...SS metal construction:


The install above the transfer case (not yet installed) into the back of the block - the OEM sensor and the Autometer sender:


And the 60 pound transfer case...bench lifted with little fanfare as it quickly guided its way home and bolts easily accessed. 5 of the 7 are new as they were nowhere to be found - glad Mitsubushi parts are plentiful!:

 

I would not daisy chain those tees and nipples together like that. I also would not use teflon tape anywhere in the oiling system; if you need to seal it use a liquid thread seal. I'm not sure of the setup on the V but most people with 8/9 opt for using a remote oil pressure sending line that taps into the oil filter housing and mounts the sensor away from vibration on the firewall using zip ties or a P-clamp.
https://www.amsperformance.com/produ...-4b11-engines/

 

Kevin: I think that is a great idea on the remote location. Contacting AMS now...

Teflon tape...we were careful to start the tape a few threads or so from the end, but likely another concern is once you remove it-the remnants. Another good point.

 

Another piece to the puzzle arrived - custom UK exhaust...full 3 inch with CAT. Weigh in is 32 pounds complete. The previous Fujitsubo setup was over 50 pounds...


CAT:


Good sized tip:


We also received a set of 1050 cc ID injectors...hoping to surpass the current OEM injectors...hoping:


We have another Saturday dedicated to the 3d puzzle...making headway!

 

Productive day!

Front axles installed...and wheel bearings torqued to 177 NM minimum:


Gearbox refill on-going...this time it didn't leak out as fast as she put it in thanks to all parts actually installed this time!


Coolant sensor harness reset due to Evo 5 harness with an Evo 6 thermostat - no wire cutting though:


Finished product:


New cam gear cover due to chunk missing of the original...not to mention lacking any 'seals':


Battery relocation platform install:


Little bit of soldering - she quite enjoyed the liquid metal:


End result:


Polishing the new ground connection - really enjoys the Dremel although that wire wheel left its mark - she now wears gloves...:


New airbox intake tube with metal Evo 9 recirculation valve - clean!


Even pulled this line to replace two semi flattened o-rings - hope that solves the static leak:


The list of tasks seems to grow!


Does anyone know where this goes?


End of day:

 

Had a short spell today...family consumed most of the day:

Project came with a seemingly good aluminum radiator...quite robust too! Little extra room to install:


Temp installed the gauge package...still need connections - hate to drill any holes in the auto, but this seems low impact and when closed is out of sight - mainly these are for tuning and/or issues:


Now they are invisible:


Current shot - looking pretty good!

 

Our new baby battery showed up today via Amazon.de. ~$80 for the 540 crank "quadruple A" size weighing in at just under 22 pounds. Not much reserve power there, but...


It fit (with the relocation tray) and we applied power after being 6 years idle. Nothing let the magic smoke out!:

 

Pumped the diff and transfer case full of 75W-90 fluids.

Reassembled the right rear brake/wheel and reversed course on the fuel tank disassembly. It was decided to not drop the tank at this time...priority is to get this running and road legal and follow up over the winter on a few areas. We assume the fuel pump will work...

Also neglected to install the OEM windage tray for various reasons (I forgot)...so off came the pan (relatively easy):


Full exhaust shot...nice 3 inch full thru...hope the neighbors won't hit the ceiling!


And the M2 downpipe installed...unfortunately, the bung we had welded in for the wideband O2 sensor was installed about 10 degrees higher than requested...running directly into the transfer case - not going to work:


We will try to use the blocked off bung in the cat pipe...flipping the cat end for end so the wideband is on the front side of the matrix. Possibly further back than ideal, but currently just want to ensure we aren't pig rich on start up.

 

No music this weekend...



Added oil (10W-30 VR High Zinc Oil):






Added coolant:






Added 5 gallons of 98 octane fuel:






Even hung the new exhaust with huge tip:






We pulled the plugs and hit the starter to 'prelube' the engine. Funny...didn't hear any hum from the fuel pump. Keyed the ignition multiple times to no avail...silence. No fuel came out of the engine compartment fuel filter either. We reseated the one engine fuel relay and fuel pump connector.



So...image showing us draining 5 gallons of fresh 98 octane fuel:






We have a multimeter on the way...assistant's enthusiasm waned a bit...

 

Pretty sure the fuel pump doesnt turn on until it sees RPM.

 

Lumpy Sticks: Hmm...even for initial priming when you begin to start the car? My other experiences, the fuel pump should prime for ~2 seconds before engage the starter...then it resumes as you describe. I have a 2018 Chevy that actually primes the pump when you open the driver's door. Possibly the Mitsubishi is different though...although we did pull the plugs and hit the starter for 10 seconds in two sessions. We still didn't see any fuel out the fuel filter in the engine compartment.

Thanks for the post - will research a bit more.

 

Fuel pump will prime when the crank and cam signal is seen by the ecu.

 

10 seconds of cranking twice should have been enough time to get fuel into the rail if the fuel pump is working. You may have a second issue going on.