Thanks gents!

The Evo seems to have a bit of a complex electrical system...two relays, one for high pressure (WOT) and one for low pressure (part throttle)...but relays are hard to come by - few parts that are no longer available.

Nonetheless, we had a new pump and so down the tank came. Not easy or clean, but no show stoppers. Lots of 'shells' covering the top of the tank thanks to nature making their home for 6 years. Successful in avoiding any spillage into the fuel, we believe. The real challenge was dropping it enough to pull the fuel pump module out...which was solidly connected to 2 hardlines at a 90 degree angle of 14 inches. They fixed this on later models, like most modern cars, I suppose.


Unfortunately, what was inside was a Walbro pump...same we were installing - known for its reliability.


But, several key motions to the car, we had fuel squirting out the belly of a loose fuel line! Don't know if the old pump was jammed (it worked on the garage floor afterward), loose connection, or...) So back in the fuel went:


Due to lack of Assistant time, I worked the gauge install a bit - primarily the AFR and oil pressure, but in the end did all 4 simultaneously since they all used the same routing...waiting for Assistant to work the 'liquid metal' (solder) portion:


Used a hanger to poke the wires thru:


This port under the right front fender...perfect!:


Uncovered this mess...believe it to be a turbo timer...turn the car off and this device keeps the motor running for a set time to cool the turbo...I would like to remove it, but the bundle scares me a bit - will hold on that action until later:

 

Turbo Timers are usually installed with an extension harness. Examine the electrical connections and unplug the turbo timer harness and reconnect the factory harness.

 

deylag: I hope so...will look closer on the install. On these older models, it is recommended?

Weekend fun:

Finishing up installing the Autometer gauges...oil pressure and AFR for start up...manifold pressure and oil temperature for later...her workspace:


Loves that solder...got quite proficient after 18 odd connections!...all with heat shrink:


New dash panel install after tidying up all the wires...old one has holes drilled - quite reasonable in cost from UAE! These cars just snap apart and back together - love it!:


Installing. Note previous owner installed a fog light...not sure why...not a requirement in Germany, but it is in UK...hmm:


Ready for engine start:


It runs...idles smoothly at 850 rpm with just over 1.0 lambda (~15 to 1 AFR)...



Not so fast...oil pressure appears about 100 psi low!

We drained the oil and swapped in an OEM filter...no change on the pressure. Autometer pressure senders have been erroneous before (this one moved and followed engine rpm so...), but there is a good chance we didn't prepare the replacement block for the deleted balance shafts. IE massive internal oil leak. So new bearings, a few gaskets, and replacement balance shaft bearings are on order. Plan of action is to remove the engine and verify the cause...and swap all the bearings for good measure - hopefully 5 minutes of run time didn't scratch the crank! The supervisor takes full responsibility...

The positives - no dash lights including ABS, AYC, Check Engine, etc. Even moved thru the gears into 3rd... So all is installed correctly and we know we can do it without missing any more parts! I expect once parts arrive, we can turn this in a day or two assuming no damage.

 

Another order from a month ago showed up from Japan:


Replace missing plastic and fasteners on the front inner fenders. Miss one of these and the stuff starts to fall apart it seems...still very reasonable on cost - just glad they are available new.

Still waiting for all the important parts...

 

Another box showed up tonight from the states:


New pressure sender, balancer bearings (which we will install 180 degrees out to block the oil passage, and set of rod bearings. The main bearings are still enroute along with oil pan related gaskets (OEM order).

 

Assistant installing the new parts...battery j-hooks replacing the original stripped models:


New turn signal housing due to damaged 'pins' to the light to seat properly:


My jerry-rigged intermediate shaft puller...used to separate the trans and transfer case. Takes quite a bit of force to overcome the small c-clip...and I don't own a slide hammer. It worked!


Trans is out...again:


Engine ready to be plucked...have to wait until after the Halloween activities:

 

A quick yank tonight and on the engine stand in 30 mins.


Fortunately, the assistant was still smiles at the task...hopefully we can get it reassembled ricky tick!


Many times easier muscling a 250 pound chunk than an American V8 at 550+ pounds!

 

Did a quick tear down to the oil pump plate...something missing!:


No bearing race whatsoever! The hole on the right of the boss leads directly to the beginning of the main oil galley - massive oil pressure bleed off!

Prior to bearing race install (hole is purposely misaligned:


Installed:


Unfortunately, I see enough sparklees in the oil pan that we need to pull the bearings/crank and hope we didn't do too much damage...(less than 5 mins run time)

 

Great thread. Following all the details!

Cheers, Joe

 

MinusPrevious: Thanks! Our success is dwindling...Obviously, this was worst case...no oil pressure on a new engine...ugh. Now all the bits to do damage...

We flushed 12 quarts thru the engine (3 quarts fresh oil fill, running the oil pump, draining the pan, pulling the pan, and brake-cleaning it clean - reinstalling for another 3 quart session). No more floaties...next to examine the bearings...

Unfortunately, the #5 main bearing (last one to get oil) has some finger nail catching grooves - not terrible, but I'm not a machinist. So out it came and try to take it to the machine shop for a look see - hopefully just a minor polish...or a new crank.


Number 1 main bearing shell - showed the most wear, but the crank journal was fine:


The rod bearings didn't look too worse for wear (get oil after the mains) surprisingly. The rod bearings are only $30 total. The mains are OEM Mitsubishi and run $185 a set...which we are still waiting on. The snow is coming so not looking good for us.

 

Our machinists said he will polish, but no guarantees. Hopefully back next week.

In the mean time...another small batch of bolts arrived from Japan. Picking up duty due packages means we must visit the Stuttgart airport and interact with the DHL lady - the epitome of German customer service. Once we stopped taking it personally, it became more comical/enjoyable. We ask, "Do you speak English" (in German) - her curt replay "nein!" Next she asks, "Let me see your ID!" in excellent English! It goes on - like a British comedy...

Nonetheless, new seat bolt anchor...previous was remnants of a harness:


And assembling the front end inner fender plastic - two mud guards and an intricate brake duct...once we located the correct little plastic clips, is quite solid...we have quite a few plastic clips of various sizes now...


Cross our fingers for bearing and crank deliver by Thanksgiving...excellent time to spend some time in the garage.

And some relief to the registration for this vehicle...took some smooth talking and two tries, but we have been granted another 3 months extension...avoiding the exclusion of the American inspection system. Forcing us to use the German TUV and all its restrictions. I can sleep now...

 

Crank was returned with an ok bill of health. It did clean up sufficiently with a polish. New bearings received and installed. We also went whole hog and added a new oil pump/plate to hedge our bets as much as possible. Tonight the oil pan was reinstalled...waiting for sealant to set.

Only image I took...prepping the rear main seal:


Half of each day is already spoken for with volunteering to sell Christmas Trees, but tomorrow we will pre-lube it and retime the cams. Saturday it gets reinstalled fully and I'm going to try my darnedest to fire it up on Sunday.

 

Progress!

Decided to complete the valve cover since all the parts (drill/tap/bolts) arrived (took two tries on the SS button head bolts)...drilling:


Tapping:


Complete with blue locktited oil separation baffles with a dash of sealant on the edges (like OEM)!:


Installed and cams timed!


Looking back at the process a new valve cover in the beginning would have been a better way to to, but the assistant wouldn't have had so much more experiences!

Today it will be hung with clutch install and in it goes!

 

Only have excuses...

We did get it dropped in...just hookups left.

Always satisfying to hang an engine - turning point:


Eye candy - twin disk...seems overkill for this Evo:


All hands on deck...although an incredibly easy drop in...just one mount with a jack underneath awaiting the trans install:


Trans went in smoothly - bit of sweat as it wasn't nicely balanced on the floor jack...didn't drop it though! More to follow...

 

Progress!

New OEM battery hold downs get pretty close to the closed hood...Assistant and her Dremel made quick work - hold it tight and watch the rags!:


Topping the 10W-30 Valvoline VR Racing Oil...:


Ready to give #2 attempt a whirl! Funny how the second time it goes together much easier...:


Pulled the plugs and spun the starter...50 psi of oil pressure! Good news.

Tentative success! Fired right up pegging the oil pressure gauge - 100 psi! Few minutes to warm up and settled to a ~28 psi warm idle. Believe that is a good number!:


Is this metal Evo 9 blow-off (recirculation) valve installed correctly? Finding an OEM-like Evo engine compartment is a bit harder than one might think: