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I have always used a phenolic spacer between the intake manifold and cylinder head so again I have used it here.
I have found that the stock cam tower bolts are the perfect length when using this spacer as well.
Intake manifold is the Skunk2 Pro Series manifold coated in wrinkle black.
Radium Engineering fuel rail, Radium Engineering fuel pressure regulator, Radium gauge, FIC 2150cc injectors. I actually run my fuel feed and return in reverse order from factory. For some reason the rail was not tapped to accept the regulator on the other end. No issues because it’s been a cleaner install this way and works wonderfully. The FB throttle body matches the bore of the Skunk2 manifold perfectly.
These FIC injectors have been amazing the entire time I have owned them. I actually obtained them used for free from a customer car because the customer went with another injector. They worked well for me from day one. I actually sent them in to FIC before this build to have them cleaned and flowed. They were already at 1% of each other and after cleaning they all flow an average of 2230cc/min and less then 1% of each other. Also amazing service from the guys at FIC. 🤘🏻
Turbo kit is a full custom turbo kit that we designed and made for my car while I was the lead tech at CBRD. There is only one other turbo manifold in existence like the one I have with this kit and the other is the original prototype which is on a full racecar.
The entire turbo kit sits as one assembly and can be removed and installed with the radiator in the car. Added bonus of being a compact entire assembly is that the whole assembly can be installed or removed in about 20minutes 🤘🏻
CBRD vband turbo manifold, vband o2 housing, vband downpipe. We at CBRD loved to recirculate the wastegate dump mainly because we have heard way too many open dumps while on the dyno and we’re just kinda over the loudness. All great things and great sounds but wanted to keep it a little more tame.
Turbo is a custom Garrett Gt3582r with the big Tail 1.03A/R exhaust housing. The turbo has custom larger billet compressor wheel and also larger low inertia turbine wheel done through Blouch Performance Turbo. This turbo is amazing!! Hands down. Small size but huge output!
Wastegate is a Tial MVR 44mm valve and is also water cooled. Gate is currently sprung for 20psi and I will say Tial valves are accurate. During testing with this setup initially with no vacuum to the gate or boost control the car made and held 20psi through the entire powerband! I believe power was a flat 500wheel on pump gas at 20psi. I’ll have to find some old dyno charts to back that up but I will not post any false information here 👍🏻🤘🏻
Current kit with the thicker runner manifold. This photo was the first design of my kit, We had a issue with the runners cracking due to the 321 material used and the filler that was used. I’m not a fab guy so I don’t know the specifics of the metal stuff but since then we have made the current kit with super thick and strong materials ! No issues in the 5years I have had it. Decided to to the T51R mod this time around. Sent the housing out to Boost Lab to have the mod done. Took a while but the work is fantastic! Fit, Finish, Machining is absolutely great!
Okay Iv never had an issue with managing under hood temps. I have always used a full sized radiator in my car and the radiator I have is a CBRD radiator so it has some amazing efficiency.
With that said, this time around I have purchased a correctly sized turbo blanket from Funk Motorsport. Fit up is very important with blanket sizing and I will say fit and finish is perfect. When I first opened the blanket I thought it was way too large but once it is on it is snug and great. The blanket shields all lines and just about everything it is supposed to.
My main reason for adding a turbo blanket is to keep the radiant heat from the turbine housing off and away from the block. Not something I can easily test but I feel that with the heat, the front side of the engine naturally grows more then the back side. Same for the heat right up front for the cylinder head. Keeping heat off the block will keep oil and coolant temps down. Also as far as growth the block itself and the cylinder bores may stay more round instead of growing more on one side of the block.
In these few pics you can also see a block specific heat shield that I have designed and then had water jetted from a piece of 4mm titanium. This is an unneeded part and most people would say “why” well why not. This was an attempt to just do something different on my own personal vehicle. If it works awesome. If not, I’ll scrub it. But so far it’s another really nice one off piece.
Yes a block heat shield. For those following this thread I decided “what the hell I’ll try it” and designed a block heat shield for my car.
Is it needed, no it’s not, but neither are dress up bolts, vanity plates, interior lighting, and all other personal touches that people do to their cars just because it is their car and that is what they want to do. No hate towards anyone, if you want to mod your car in any way shape or form do what you want. The culture of modding and being individual about your ride is dying and I see too many pages on this forum and others where someone is just bashing someone who may not have the knowledge or just simply because something is wrong or whatever. Anyways this is just something I did because I wanted to. Buuut,, it is going to work 😂🤘🏻👍🏻😉 Bare block to see the mounting holes. I had to drill and tap the two right and left upper holes. Upper right hole drilled and tapped. Cardboard template. Idea. Upper left hole drilled and tapped. Cad design and measurements first attempt. Iv never used this stuff before so it was a learning experience. Access to a 3D printer at work has made doing this project very easy! Finished test piece. This was the first test run. Holes were not lined perfectly. Into version two. The red one. Version two fits better. Still not perfect. More measuring. This may have been version 3 or 4 lol but holes were aligned now. Had a piece of 4mm aluminum cut to check final design and fitment. Difficult to see but final piece hard mounted in the vehicle and turbo kit on and tight!!! 🤘🏻👍🏻 Finished design cut out of 4mm titanium. Holes are perfect. No drilling the holes or anything. Perfect. With anything that mounts to the block you have to think of vibration and potential for false knock. I have thought of that issue and the piece is super sturdy and I don’t think it will be able to vibrate against anything. I have not logged any issues yet but it is still in its testing phase. When I get on the dyno for some power pulls I will address any negatives I encounter.
Wow Brother. You have re-started your EvOM account w/a bang! Well done! This motor just has all the super nice bits / details.
Hey, curious what your thoughts are on o-ringing the block? Curious why that wasnt done? Maybe your tuned boost levels will be on the super modest side?
Wow Brother. You have re-started your EvOM account w/a bang! Well done! This motor just has all the super nice bits / details.
Hey, curious what your thoughts are on o-ringing the block? Curious why that wasnt done? Maybe your tuned boost levels will be on the super modest side?
Hey thankyou very much! Great question by the way. I went through all the thoughts and options and O-Ringing was an option that I had thought about it. Iv seen it all where 4g blocks would be cut and then use a copper O-ring, Iv seen where the block is kept stock and the cylinder head is cut and used a stainless ring, Iv seen both the cylinder head and the block cut and used with a copper head gasket,, there are even other ways I’m sure. For my build I feel that the cut ring style gasket is like the in the middle of regular head gasket and o-ringing. I want the sealing capability but just wanted to keep it easy I guess. Once the block is cut for an o-ring there’s no going back. The cut ring gasket will bite into the head but usually it’s a very small skim to remove the marking and I could go back to a standard head gasket if I wanted to.
Not saying either of these methods is better then one or the other. They all work for their own application. This engine with a previous build made close to 800wheel on CBRD’s heartbreaker mustang dyno so it may see those number again and I wanted something better then the stock head gasket if I could get it. 🤘🏻👍🏻
Okay so charge piping and intercooler again are a one off kit designed for my car while at CBRD.
Intercooler is a CBRD 3.6” intercooler and piping is honestly all 2.75” scrap aluminum bends and pieces that we just had laying around the shop.
All charge piping is 2.75” same at the intercooler inlet and outlets. The kit is considered a super short rout with full sized battery. Most people are unaware that the factory battery tray can be trimmed to free up quite a bit of space. Actually if you look at the battery tray itself. It has factory markings for cutting in different models.
My whole intercooler kit is just 3 solid pipes and couplers. Love it!
The clutch of choice for me is the Competition Clutch twin disk. I love this clutch. This is actually the second time Iv purchased this clutch because I just like everything about it. Iv used it in other cars and in one vehicle I rebuilt it twice. Parts are easy to get and affordable.
As far as the clutch goes, peddle feel is close to stock. Supper aggressive and positive feel. I think this is mainly due to both clutch disks are unsprung and a rigid design. I also love this disk because the clutch material itself is soo thick vs other clutch disks Iv seen with half the disk material. I want to say that each disk has about a whole quarter inch worth of material making the entire clutch assembly have a half inch worth of usable material for extra long life. Iv read this clutch having a lifespan of well over 20k miles even with track time!! Ultimately I just like everything about the clutch so it is what I use.
Side note,,, this twin can be noisy in some cases. This doesn’t bother me but it could be bothersome to others.
Transmission is stock but I have rebuilt it with new synchros, bearings, sleeves, and seals.
Transfer Case is a Shep Racing stage1. Nothing special but does the job!
Rear end is a Team Rip Engineering Max Lock 12plate with the HD billet side cover as well as the oil sight glass in the cover.
As everyone knows a project is never finished and my particular evo 9 has gone through many changes during the time Iv had it.
When I first purchased the car about 11yrs ago it was about 98% stock. I believe the only mods the previous owner did was a Defi boost gauge, aftermarket car alarm and maybe a K&N air filter.
In the time Iv owned it Iv done just about every mod that can be done, as well as some above and beyond crazy stuff as you can see from this thread. I’ll post up some pictures of what it looked like from when I first got it to as it looks now.
This is the oldest picture I could find of my car. I think this is after I added some 20mm wheel spacers for that aggressive looks. Had the windows tinted. Grouppe S gauge pod. I forget that’s the spelling or not. I heard these are difficult to come by these days. Schroth rallye 4 harnesses. At CBRD On CBRD’s mustang dyno. Lol I actually think I have more then 100pulls on this dyno 😬🤘🏻 Got a set of 18x9.5+15 RPF1s Never got around to finishing my window vents 😳 AutoPower roll bar. At a car show at one point. Another old picture. Always in the shop. More dyno stuff. Chillin at my house. This was with the first revision manifold. These were some over 700wheel pulls at 9k rpms. 🤘🏻 Current wheels. These are Enkie RS05RR in rear face 18x10+28 I believe. Awesome super aggressive wheels. I run these with no spacers also 😉 Those 265/35/18 Re71r tires! Evo X front rotor and caliper upgrade!
Alright this car runs with factory ECU and tephrav7. The car has a pump gas tune as well as an e85 tune. I’ll usually run one fuel or the other and I will completely drain the tank before switching fuels.
Some good info: Iv made over 700wheel with this setup and a Single Walbro 450lph pump. The pump is direct wired to alt/bat and I was using a -6 push lock fuel feed line and then reusing the stock fuel feed line as the return back to tank. Using pump E85. I did run into high fuel pressure issues with this arrangement but was easily taken care of by drilling out the siphon.
I feel that above information is good because I have seen and built many cars where people chose to use a double pumper setup either with dual Walbro 255s or duel 450s or some other combo of pumps. It all works,, but I feel a single pump is more simple in some cases.
So now currently I run a single Walbro525lph pump for a little extra head room but I believe I have the ultimate single pump install. I also use my factory fuel basket,, or what’s left of it as well as utilizing a fuel filter in tank with the pump. Running the stock basket with the walbro450 or 525 makes it very difficult to fit with a pre pump filter. I’ll post pics of how I accomplish this.
I’m also going to post some pictures of an overkill dual 450 pump I did I was using previously but then ditched because I wasn’t trying to make more power, and if one pump is sufficient. I decided to get rid of all the unneeded items. Still a good post though because it also uses the stock basket and it turned out nice.
Iv also switched from -6 push lock lines and fittings to all -8 PTFE lines and fittings. The main reason is because the -8ptfe will flow more then -6 push lock, but also has a smaller footprint. I’ll add pictures of this also.
Ok pics..
-8ptfe on left vs -6 push lock on right. PTFE has a larger inner diameter and a smaller outer diameter then push lock. More flow and less space. Side view. Bottom is -8ptfe, top is -6 push lock. Stock basket double pumper I did. Two 450s was too much. My current rig. Full -8 PTFE feed and return lines with high flow fittings with a single direct wired 525 and pre filter. Also another note. The top plastic feed and return pieces easily pop off and can be clocked in different directions. I had to clock my return side to make the line routing a bit more happy. What’s left of my stock basket lmao. Bottom side view. Pre filter literally sits on the bottom of the tank bowl.
