All of this is WOWZA you fantastic sumbiatch!

 

Lol thankyou sir. Appreciate the comment! 🤘🏻

 

Another unique part that I have for this build is basically a carbon tube that we had laying around the shop at CBRD. My car at the point did not have an intake, so we made one out of scrap pieces that were just laying around.

The intake consists of the carbon tube. I believe it’s a Vibrant bell mouth inlet and a Vibrant cone filter and then just couplers to attach the bell to the carbon tube and then the tube to the compressor inlet.

Nothing fancy but it looks good and I have dyno proven results that this intake makes 40whp on CBRD’s mustang dyno. I will post pics and links to the videos.

I believe this extra gain shows how important air velocity is as it enters the compressor. Air going through a tube is moving more efficiently than it is from a spread out area such as under the hood. There is also a heat shielding effect and we all know cooler air equals more air density and more power.

I only have two videos but they show 3 separate pulls. These are actually a series of 5 back to back pulls I did right after one another. Maybe a 60second cool down before each pull but never shutting the engine off. After the first few pulls we decided to do a test and remove the intake that we made just to see what the difference was. The power lost was 40wheel and that’s a huge number to produce at the wheels on a mustang dyno. And all from a simple intake tube. Directly after that pull we re installed the intake and did another pull and it gained that 40whp back to exactly the same power it was making the earlier pulls.

Like I said I only have two videos so pay attention lmao 😂. Watch closely to the hp numbers at the end of the video. You will see the previous pulls number at 706whp or so, then that number will change to the hp made with the intake off. It goes down to 665 or so showing a 40whp loss. Then the second video pay attention also because at the end of the video you will see the numbers again showing the previous 665 number and then the 708whp number it did with the intake back on. You can also clearly see in one video the intake is not there and then it’s back on in the other.

Okay pics and video links. Enjoy.

First dyno video link:

https://www.facebook.com/chad.block.77/videos/10156527120092442/?
Second dyno video link:

https://www.facebook.com/chad.block.77/videos/10156527120152442/?


This is the earlier 2.1 build I did with the first version turbo manifold. Same intake though.

 

I will say that is one really nice build my man. Those gains from the velocity stack is pretty impressive. If I were to say one thing and one thing I would have changed I would have done a bulletproof hanger with your 525. They were designed to fit the 525 and they fit great. Other then that really nice job car looks like a blast to drive.

 

Thanks man! I thought about that but decided why spend the money if the stock hanger works just as well. It was kind of an I’ll try it idea, and if it fails I’ll then be forced to buy a better hanger assembly. Still no issues with the one I have so it’s a win so far! 👍🏻 Again thanks for the input, I appreciate it!!

 

Its not a problem. I did the same as you did when I wanted to do dual 525s for my car and it was just to the point where it was just to hard to get in there. The bulletproof unit sits a tad big higher on the tank allowing the 525 to not sit on the bottom which was the problem I had so for me it was a no brainer. My biggest problem was getting the -10 to the feed side. I had a problem getting the line where I needed it and then into the unit. Do you have the dyno plot I would love to see the curve on that thing.

 

Heres a few older graphs. One pump gas plot showing 3 pulls at around 530wheel. And then an older e85 graph just under 700 with just over 500wtq. The car usually stayed around 730/550 when we were happy with it. All similar graphs. It would usually make 500wtq by 5500 and then hold it over 500 till about 8k so it was a nice flat curve. 👍🏻 It works well.



680/500 ish..

Pump gas. Different pulls all within 10hp of each other.

Two separate cars showing how identical the curves are. Same turbo. My car is the higher hp/tq numbers. The lower are an evoX on pump I believe.

 

Damn that thing is nuts again congrats on an awesome build

 

Thankyou!! 👍🏻🤘🏻

 

No thank you for sharing

 

Exhaust is pretty simple. The downpipe used to be an STM downpipe that we cut apart and fashioned a downpipe for my kit. I don’t really have any pics of it but a downpipe is a downpipe. As for the rest of the exhaust it’s full 3” Stainless and again all scrap metal from around the shop. We pretty much made everything for my car from scrap lmao. I do have a pic of the exhaust though so I’ll post that. Also all vband stuff makes clocking or removing and installing very easy 👍🏻



As straight as it can be for the most part. Muffler not seen in this pic but I believe it’s a simple Borla. Sounds good.

 

So I made a dead peddle or more so a dead peddle cover. The factory plastic dead peddle is kinda just ehhh. So I made this aluminum piece that looks and feels much better. It goes well with the stock peddles. I could have finished it a bit better as far as the edges and stuff goes. It’s not perfect but those parts aren’t really seen when the door is open.

 

Super nice work! Ive got just the store bought one

 

Thankyou! It does the job just fine.

 

Let’s talk about the braking system in this car. I mentioned in my current wheel pictures that I am running the evo x front calipers and rotors on my car. For this who don’t know and may be interested, this is a cheap big brake kit that’s usually pretty easy to find on eBay or in a junkyard. The only modification that needs to be done is the front knuckles will need drilled out slightly larger for the larger evo x caliper bolts. Other then that mounting is the same. They are larger so make sure they fit with your wheel combo before drilling out your knuckle because once the holes are drilled the stock calipers will not go back on the car! I’ll have to dig deep to find some pictures but I’ll post what I have.

The reason I went with the evo x calipers up front is because they were very easy for me to get, we had a set laying around the shop. As usual lmao. Also the larger rotor and caliper combo extend pad life and manage heat better then a smaller rotor that works harder. Surface area is obviously larger with the evo x rotor. I also believe the braking tq is also slightly increased because the larger caliper is out further then the stock one. It’s like a 10” ratchet vs. a 12” ratchet. More torque will come from the longer arm. Same concept.

As for the rear brakes the caliper are stock and rebuilt by me. Completely rebuilt, Caliper halves were separated, fully stripped and cleaned, Then assembled with Racing Brake stainless vented pistons, all new seals and high temp dust boots. NEW ARP hardware for the halves and new bleeder screws. I’ll post pics. Iv never really heard a right or wrong answer about separating caliper halves and Iv actually done it many times without any issues thereafter. The important thing is to replace all seals and inspect components for wear or damage, also always use NEW correct grade bolts for the caliper halves and make sure they are torqued properly and they will be fine as they were. Think of it this way. Before they calipers are built they are separate halves. What is different?!? Nothing really.

As for brake pads I really like the Ferrodo Ds2500 but plan on running a different pad this coming year. Rotors are a simple stoptech slotted up front and a DBA in the rear. Not permanent, I plan on switching to Gyrodisc when I have some extra cash to do so.

Pics:



Size comparison of evo x vs 8/9















I actually like the raw stripped look so these are just high temp cleared over. I expect to melt the paint so why try to make them look super good lol 🤘🏻👍🏻 I actually might have installed my brembo stickers at the wrong angles or on the wrong sides but nobody is perfect lmao. 😂