Hey all, I would just like to share my car and build because it's a bit different than others I have seen. I will be adding to this thread when I have time, but as for now I just wanted to get the thread started. Get ready for some crazy! First off a little bit about the build. This is a 2.1l, and unlike most 2.1l builds this comes in at a true 2100.52cc making it a true 2.1l. Other 2.1 builds I have seen are either under 2100cc and rounded up or over 2100 and rounded down so its nice to say its a true 2.1!

How its done. Well this is a stock evo 9 4g63 block bored slightly over to 85.25mm. Reason for the slight overbore was just to freshen up the cylinder walls and make sure they are as perfect to round as I can get and also fresh crosshatching to seat the new rings.

Crank stroke is also slightly larger at 92mm which is what gives this engine its 2.1l displacement.

Something weird!!! OK here is where the build gets really different and strange. The rods are custom length. Thes rods would be considered a SLR or short long rod instead of the standard long rod builds. The rod length I have chosen for this engine is 154mm. Reason for this was to change the rod stroke ratio to something a little different.

Will add more info and pictures later..

 

So you did a custom cranks and custom rods for less displacement than readily available 94mm/153mm combination... and for what exactly?

 

Alright @k4nnon

Welcome to the group. Yeah, we look fwd to the pics & details on this project

Cheers, Joe

 

Main goal was to just make something different than what is already out there. The factory rod ratio of the 4g63 engine is a 1.7. The rod ratio of the standard long rod build is a 1.77. The rod ratio of the SLR 153mm rod and the 94mm crank is a 1.63. I wanted to do something different and get closer to the stock rod ratio if I could. The 154mm rod and 92mm crank give a ratio of 1.67. The displacement difference is only about 46cc from the 92 and 94 crank. 👍🏻

 

Thanks, Iv actually been part of this forum for many years under a different name. There came a time where I didn’t need to search the forums anymore and I was lazy about posting useful information. I forgot all of my login information and had to create a new account. Back to newbie stats. 🤘🏻

 

Doing this from my phone so let’s see if all goes through.

Iv actually done this build before so this is the second custom rotating assembly Iv done in this fashion. Different parts the other time.


All that goodness.

92mm Winberg crankshaft.

154mm Carrillo rods with CARR bolts.

will post more pics when I have more time.

 

Wow, that Winberg crank is truly something. Seems like they offer a super light version w/circular voids in the counter weights

 

Engine and rotating assembly is fully measured, balanced, and blueprinted for proper oil clearances on the main and rod journals.

All engine block work and measuring was done while I worked at IAG Performance, in IAG’s fully clean, temperature controlled engine department. All measurements and blueprinting was done at 67 degrees F for complete accuracy. The block main tunnel was also line honed for perfection on the main tunnel so bearing clearances are perfect.



Block bore/hone to exact crosshatching pattern for final bore sizing. Grit and crosshatch degree and angle to Ross Racing specs for the piston and rings.

 

It is a beautiful piece. It’s almost a shame that it’s not seen once it’s installed. Winberg was amazing to deal with. They also offer a super lightweight version with less counterweights but my application is still a street car so went with the full counterweight version 👍🏻

 

Because the build is soo one off and custom, all parts are made to order. Since the rods are spec’d at 154mm the wrist pin in the piston needs to go up to account for the added length.

The pistons Iv always used in my personal engine builds have been Ross Racing pistons. I have found that they were the most willing and easy to deal with when it comes to making a completely custom piston.

Pistons are 10:1 with Ross Racing dome and skirt coatings with HD wrist pins.

Pistons, Rods, Pins, Retainers, Rings, Bearings, Bolts all match balanced and full balanced with Big end weights all within 1/10th of a gram.

 

Engine main bearings are ACL race bearings. I have found through building many engines that ACL bearings seem to be the most consistent for proper and consistent bearing thickness and also with having the least amount of bearing taper.

Even with that said I purchased 2 boxes of bearings to make sure I had a good set with exacting oil clearances. It was very easy to get exacting clearances since the main tunnel was done.

Engine is assembled with ARP main studs and torqued properly before, during, and after all measurements were taken.

 

Rods and pistons in! Ring end gaps are to Ross Racing specified measurements with an extra thousandth because this engine has made over 700wheel mustang before and will most likely do the same. Top ring gaps are .018” and second ring gaps are .021” for anyone interested in the specs I use.

 

To start with the top end stuff I purchased a brand new OEM evo 9 cylinder head from Mitsubishi. Reason for this is the last cylinder head was already surfaced and I wanted to start fresh.

No port or polish work because I feel the stock head flows beautifully as is. Same with valves, all stock sizing, no +1mm stuff here.

Valvetrain specifics are Supertech Black Nitrided intake valves with Supertech inconel exhaust valves.

Springs and retainers are GSC 5041 uprated beehive valve springs with Titanium hats. Also using the chromoly seats and Manley valve keepers.

Cams are GSC billet S3’s 280/280 duration with 11.7mm lift on both sides. Iv ran 5 different sets of camshafts over the years and the GSC S2 and S3 are my top favorites. Another easy drop in cam that I really like is the Tomei Poncam 270/270.

ARP cam tower bolts for the ultimate fastener tech.

ARP stainless exhaust hardware with copper nuts.

ARP L19 head studs. Iv stretched the standard upgraded arp head studs twice at just over 700wheel on mustang dyno. L19 should solve this issue.

Using a Vulcan cut ring head gasket this time. These gaskets are very popular in the BMW and Subaru world so figured I would try it with this application. It should work well.

















Can’t forget the Kiggly HLA regulator🤘🏻

 

I have always loved using the Full Blown 70mm cast throttle body. IMO it’s one of the best you can use with these engine simply because it works and it’s a no hassle addition.

The FB throttle body does not use the throttle body coolant ports so those are eliminated.

Since the cylinder head was brand new I would have had to press in the heater core tube with throttle body feed, and since this is eliminated I just added the appropriate water port for the heater core. Tapped and sealed for a clean look.

 

sub'd!