Used Quartermaster Twin Disc that needs rebuild.

I am no longer including the hydraulic release bearing.

So to break it down, you are getting:

1 Quartermaster Twin that needs rebuild

and you will need to purchase a new hydraulic release bearing for your application, 5 or 6 speed, when you order your rebuild kit.

$350 + Shipping

Pictures:

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how much to rebuild

Around $300

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how many miles did you get out of it, and what power levels?

20,447 miles.

I haven't had the car on the dyno in over 2 years so I really couldn't say a number with confidence.

But if you need to know a number, maybe 350whp on a mustang dyno?

Like I said though, I really couldn't tell you.

Its Monday

Wednesday

try ebay dude. i just unloaded mine on there no prob

im not knocking your thread but i would love to know where youre getting a rebuild kit for this for $300? every place i looked, because i need a rebuild also, is charging at least 525. and thats from quartermaster themselves with a %15 discount. please let me know so i can order one for $300??????!!!!!!!

Rebuild costs will vary from clutch to clutch depending on what needs to be replaced, I don't recall who I spoke to but my quote was right around the $300-$400. I think I might have called MAP since nobody would answer the phone at QM.

And thanks for the heads up VR4. Do you mind if I ask how much you got for yours? You can PM me if you prefer.

from the pics you have the exact same clutch as i do, guess i will call map and see thanks

Whats your driving style like? I drive 3,000 miles a month on average and Id be happy to get 20k out of a QM if I got one. Im trying to decide on a clutch right now, but Shep recommended against the QM after I was dead set on getting one due to them being such a race-specific clutch, theyre not well street mannered and dont like to get the car moving under 2000rpm's from what Ive heard.

Do you drive a lot of highway miles? Do you get stuck in traffic often with the clutch? I dont care about noises it makes, Im concerned about the manners of the clutch on the street, I know they wear even quicker on the street from low rpm slips to get moving than they would from track launching.

You're right around where I am as far as mileage per month, and I drove this clutch exactly like I did my stocker that I got 47,427miles out of, which still had plenty of life left, there just wasn't enough cover pressure to hold what the car was making HP wise.

I Have 71,500 miles on the car now, I use it every day and drive it everywhere; traffic, track, highway, road trips, everywhere. I only ever use 800-1000rpm when pulling away from a stop though, even with the QM... Maybe that has something to do with it?

The QM was a GREAT clutch to drag race with, launched AWESOME, shifted like butter at any rpm, had AMAZING pedal feel, great modulation due to the HRB, and I never had any issues with it... But I'm sure you've already heard all of this before.

To try and answer your question though, when I got the clutch I had also spoken with Shep and he told me the same as he told you... Too harsh for the street. This is obviously a bit subjective; one person may say it's a joy, while another may want to crush his car after driving 5 miles with it.

I personally already had my mind set on getting one since it was the only clutch available that had a HRB and worked with the 6-speed. (I used to work at GSC and loved the pedal feel in the supra and how detailed everything was as far as engagement... You could tell exactly where the clutch was and what it was doing.) So I really just wanted his opinion on whether or not it would do any damage to the transmission while being street driven.

As far as street driving goes, I don't want you to have any misconceptions...

#1. It does make noise when slipped, I jokingly used to say it sounds like you're killing baby birds every time you slip the clutch, which is almost true.

#2. There is a very small 'slip window' that you have compared to others before the clutch starts to make the drive train shutter... This is pretty common with all ceremetallic type clutches, but especially noticeable in solid hub assemblies where there are no springs to dampen this effect. This also has to do with the friction co-efficient being quite high with QM disk material.

#3. There is a lot of decel noise above ~2700rpm that you get through the drive shaft and rear end... Also common with solid hubbed clutches.

#4. Because of what I mentioned earlier, the friction co-efficent being so high, it can be a bit 'grabby' off from a stop, which means you just need to pay attention to what you're doing off the line. Not a big deal to me, but it may bother some.

And finally...

#5. Longevity... When I bout the clutch from Adam at Devo, this was my number one concern. I did NOT want a clutch that was only going to last 10-12K miles. He assured me that given what I got out of the stocker, I would get the same, if not more than say an Exedy Twin (40-50K miles). This was a flat out lie... When my QM slipped on me the first time, I almost **** a brick I was so pissed... I was, what I thought, only halfway through its life cycle and it was slipping. Fast forwarding a bit, when I initially called about getting the clutch rebuilt, the QM rep was extremely surprised at how many miles I got out of the clutch. He said that was almost unheard of, especially with the number of launches on the clutch (40+). He said they normally see 10-12K miles on the low end, and 14-15K miles on the high end. So be prepared, if it goes for 13,500 miles you've done well in QM's eyes.

If I remember anything else or you have any other questions, just let me know.