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FS OH: Buschur Racing Long Block - Aluminum Rod/High Compression/BF272's
Dec 4, 2011, 09:26 PM
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FS OH: Buschur Racing Long Block - Aluminum Rod/High Compression/BF272's
SOLD!!
Located in the Cincinnati, OH area. Would like to have this item picked up but will ship at buyers expense.
Asking $5900 for the complete motor.
If you bought this setup from Buschur Racing, you would be paying over $10,000 for it!
Not looking to part it out unless someone wants the short block first. If that sells, then i'll sell the head and cams seperate. If parted out the prices would be:
Stage 3 short block & front cover/oil pump - $4000 + shipping
Stage 3 head - $2000 shipped
BF 272 cams - $500 shipped
Includes the following:
BR Custom Stage 3 Short Block
- 2.0L engine
- JE 10:1 compression pistons
- GRP aluminum rods
- Balance shaft delete
BR Stage 3 head
BR BF272 cams
Here's the whole story. This motor was originally built by BR in the spring of 2010. The car was tuned and broken in on Buschur's dyno. On the HTA3586, the car made 576whp on 93 octane and 701whp on E98. About a week later, one of the fuel pumps went out and the engine went lean and the motor got hurt. I checked everything out and it only lost compression. I ran the car the rest of the summer this way.
During the spring of 2011, I dropped the car off at Buschur's and they tore the motor down. The rings ended up losing their seal and that's why the motor was down on compression. David said everything else looked great - pistons, rods, bearing, cross hatching. David gave the cylinder walls a quick ball hone and rebuilt the engine. The car was retuned and made the same exact whp numbers as the year prior.
In May 2011, I decided I was tired of the big turbo and decided to go back and try autocross again. I installed a FP HTAGreen on the car. It made 436whp on 93 octane and 488whp on E85. I ran the car all summer this way without a single issue. Even took it to the track and went 10.90@131. The car was pretty much ran on E85 all summer since it was close to my work.
I've done a couple compression tests over the summer and they have all been ~150psi. I also cut open every oil filter that comes off the engine. Every one of them has been immaculate. Still have the last filter on the engine and would be willing to cut it open for the buyer to see.
Now I'm parting the car out, so this motor is for sale. I would say the motor has 4000 miles on it at most since being rebuilt in the spring of 2011 and a total of 7000 miles since being first built in the spring of 2010.
On to the pics. Can't really see much since all the good stuff is on the inside, but Buschur Racing can verify this has all been purchased through them.
Thanks for looking,
Tim
Located in the Cincinnati, OH area. Would like to have this item picked up but will ship at buyers expense.
Asking $5900 for the complete motor.
If you bought this setup from Buschur Racing, you would be paying over $10,000 for it!
Not looking to part it out unless someone wants the short block first. If that sells, then i'll sell the head and cams seperate. If parted out the prices would be:
Stage 3 short block & front cover/oil pump - $4000 + shipping
Stage 3 head - $2000 shipped
BF 272 cams - $500 shipped
Includes the following:
BR Custom Stage 3 Short Block
- 2.0L engine
- JE 10:1 compression pistons
- GRP aluminum rods
- Balance shaft delete
BR Stage 3 head
BR BF272 cams
Here's the whole story. This motor was originally built by BR in the spring of 2010. The car was tuned and broken in on Buschur's dyno. On the HTA3586, the car made 576whp on 93 octane and 701whp on E98. About a week later, one of the fuel pumps went out and the engine went lean and the motor got hurt. I checked everything out and it only lost compression. I ran the car the rest of the summer this way.
During the spring of 2011, I dropped the car off at Buschur's and they tore the motor down. The rings ended up losing their seal and that's why the motor was down on compression. David said everything else looked great - pistons, rods, bearing, cross hatching. David gave the cylinder walls a quick ball hone and rebuilt the engine. The car was retuned and made the same exact whp numbers as the year prior.
In May 2011, I decided I was tired of the big turbo and decided to go back and try autocross again. I installed a FP HTAGreen on the car. It made 436whp on 93 octane and 488whp on E85. I ran the car all summer this way without a single issue. Even took it to the track and went 10.90@131. The car was pretty much ran on E85 all summer since it was close to my work.
I've done a couple compression tests over the summer and they have all been ~150psi. I also cut open every oil filter that comes off the engine. Every one of them has been immaculate. Still have the last filter on the engine and would be willing to cut it open for the buyer to see.
Now I'm parting the car out, so this motor is for sale. I would say the motor has 4000 miles on it at most since being rebuilt in the spring of 2011 and a total of 7000 miles since being first built in the spring of 2010.
On to the pics. Can't really see much since all the good stuff is on the inside, but Buschur Racing can verify this has all been purchased through them.
Thanks for looking,
Tim
Last edited by SloRice; Feb 3, 2012 at 08:25 PM.
Dec 6, 2011, 07:48 AM
#2
Just bumping this thread for Tim and to vouch for us doing all the work on the engine, the engine is fresh and ready for 8 second passes if that's what you choose to do with it.
To buy all this new from us without any cores the price would be in excess of $10,000 as pictured.
To buy all this new from us without any cores the price would be in excess of $10,000 as pictured.
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Dec 8, 2011, 06:44 AM
#13
Drawbacks to aluminum rods on the street. The only one is the mileage they recommend them to be used for. The old rods we use to use, that aren't nearly as good as what we use now, have gone over 10,000 miles on the street in a 9 second EVO, that was Jeff's car. I guess depending on how hard you are going to push the engine and how many miles you actually drive, 10,000 miles may be a lot or could be only worth 6 months of driving. There is no other "down side" to aluminum rods.
Dec 8, 2011, 09:05 AM
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Drawbacks to aluminum rods on the street. The only one is the mileage they recommend them to be used for. The old rods we use to use, that aren't nearly as good as what we use now, have gone over 10,000 miles on the street in a 9 second EVO, that was Jeff's car. I guess depending on how hard you are going to push the engine and how many miles you actually drive, 10,000 miles may be a lot or could be only worth 6 months of driving. There is no other "down side" to aluminum rods.