Fresh rebuild done by TScomp Tuned
Oringed 86mm block
Manley forged crank 100mm
Manley turbo tuff rods
Wiseco 10.5-1 HD2 pistons
New Bearings
Fresh hone with torque plate
Oil pump is preprimed
Balanced shafted removed with stubby
Good to 650whp
$4000 plus shipping
contact Jack 914 804 seven 3 seven 5
Can also Pm Tom with any questions

 

Yes I just refreshed this block for Jack.

What I did was;

New hone /w Billet torque plate & ARP L19 studs
Reused the old rings due to they were brand new basically with very low miles (Around 1k)
New ACL Trimetal race bearings on rods, mains, and acl thrust washers
Side clearanced the manley turbo tuff rods to proper spec
Installed new stubby shaft onto frontcase
Cleaned old existing frontcase out + pre primed the oil pump so whoever installs this engine will have instant oil pressure on the first crank.
Repainted the block so it has fresh paint since we had the machine shop hot tank the block
Pressed the existing freeze plugs in further, since other place did not seat them properly

Block has a manley forged crank so i would recommend keeping power under 550-600wtq dynojet or around there.

Whoever buys the block will have the ability to get support from me if something goes wrong and we will stand behind our work.

I will be shipping the block directly from my shop as well for whoever is interested in it if someone takes it before Jack gets to it.

The block has an 86mm bore, but its copper o-ringed so it should be good for any amount of boost pressure with zero issues.

 

Here are some more pictures for Jack of the build process;

 

Is this an Evo 8 block, or Evo 9 block?

 

I'm assuming you have an Evo 9?? If so just get the Mivec line kit and you can run it without any sort of work being done I.E tapping and all that. I think it's under a $100 and it works like a charm.

Bryan

 

Oringed? why is this needed on a 4g63? also, Tom, the turbo tuff rods were side clearenced as in material taken off so it does not contact the block? I thought the tt's are drop ins

 

So it's save to assume this block won't work with a buschur head

 

why do you say that? Is that because Buschur o rings it's heads?

 

Correct

 

It's an Evo 9 block

 

Orings were done by previous shop. We don't oring blocks. The Orings are only a plus. Its an 86mm bore, so the orings will make it seal better then an 85mm bore technically.

Notching the block for clearance is not side clearancing. Side clearancing is, shaving the sides of the rod caps to proper spec to achieve the correct side clearance for the rod cap and the crank journal radius so they have proper clearance.

Out of the box ALL manley rods are to tight around .008", we set the proper clearance. 99% engine builds don't even do this.

We do everything 100% no shortcuts, which is why I have 60+ engines out there to date with not a single failure and some engines have 50K+ miles on them. Some 1000WHP.

Also of course rotating assembly is turned after assembly to assure nothing hits anything (oil squirters hitting pistons, etc). We have seen oil squirters broken off sitting in the pan from people not bending them out of the way from highly reputable shops.

Sorry I said a little extra, but I just wanted to assure others when we assemble blocks we are super meticulous and nothing gets by our eyes.

I don't see why it wouldn't. it will just crush the MLS gasket on both sides with a different set of o-rings. Id do more research on it though first before you go ahead and do it. The BR head uses a steel oring, this block has a copper oring.

 

Bump for a badass engine builder!

Tom built mine and was flawless.

 

i wasnt sure that it would be a bad idea or not, confirmed with quite a few people that a o-ring head and o-ring block should not be used together

 

Makes sense. I think you can only use one on both sides when they interlock together and are designed to do so.

Worst case if the o-rings are stopping someone from buying the block, they can sell their o-ring head for a non o-ring head since the blocks o-ringed already and probably profit in the end.

86mm block o-ringed should be good for 52-55psi of boost without issues.

 

What rods and pistons are u running, and do u have ur clearance specs handy? And last question does it have balance shaft eliminater kit?