if you can just get the duct for the caliper, that's all you really need. but the ams back cover to seal the back of the rotor is nice also, very tight tolerance to force air out the rotor vanes.

 

I can't bring myself to pay that much for $100 worth of parts LOL. I have a local guy that i may have fab the caliper duct for me. The rest, i can make at the hardware store.

 

I dont have the fab skill to make my own. I see a lot of folks running the AMS kit. I like how honda-guy "ported" it and also was able to afix a ball joint heat shield. Just need to work some more OT lol.

Just skimmed through honda-guy's build thread. Pretty much exactly what I am wanting to duplicate. NASA HPDE and try and graduate up to some TT racing. Slowly building the car as I break stuff. CT9A platform has a lot of track time and data out there. EvoM is a great resource.

 

Agreed that those poor ball joint boots see some abuse. I use pieces of header wrap and wire it on. Not fancy, but seems to work LOL

 

Ditto but I used SS zip ties.

 

I used heat wrap and wire on my s2000 also. They work but don't look pretty. You can probably use gold foil tape also. My boot seals looks the same as they were after I made the heat shield 3 years ago. I finally had to replace the whiteline lower balljoint and it came new boots that looks like high temp silicone. Semi transparent and much softer.

 

That would be nice, but i was pulling mine off semi-frequently for a while.. wire was cheap and i had a roll LOL. Ghetto, but worked haha. SS ties would be a better long-term option, for sure.


I thought about the gold tape, but not much of a surface to stick to. I did notice the newer ball joints seem to have silicone boots. Great idea. I'll still wrap them, though.


As for Ti shims, some people have a concern about them keeping heat in the pads and not letting it dispurse throughout the system. Isn't that kinda the point?

 

you can wrap the gold foil tape around several times to let it stick on itself. just warp it loosely so it has room to flex.

the only place for the backing plates to dissipate is through the oem pistons, which in turn boil the brake fluids, which is what you're trying to reduce with stainless pistons in the first place.

 

I read on Stoptech's site that Titanium buttons work ~70% as good as titanium pistons.
"The fact of the matter is that a simple Titanium button placed inside the OEM piston does about 70% of the job at a fraction of the cost with no risk of damaging anything by disassembling the caliper."

When it says buttons, does it mean something that will just fit in the hole of the piston or does it mean something that will fit in the hole and cover the piston interface with the pad (decreasing the allowable pad thickness)?

Titanium has a bit less thermal expansion than steel so they may get a tad loose when the calipers and pistons heat up but I can't imagine that will create any problems. Additionally, you can always cut a tad over on the titanium and heat the steel/cool the titanium to place the buttons.

That article doesn't really cover titanium shims...

 

If a titanim "button" (I assume it's basically a cover) Does 70% of what a Ti piston does, I would think Ti shims are right up there with the button in terms of heat transfer reduction.


Also worth noting, I've been running girodisc Ti shims for a while now with no warping issues, and I've even doen back to back testing to see if they add any mushiness or free travel to the pedal, and I wasn't able to tell the difference between shim, and no shim. I still cook the fluid pretty good every track day, so I have been thinking of trying the RB stainless pistons.

 

I was lucky to find the AMS ducts on ebay used for ~175bucks. Will probably need to find new/more hosing though.

 

is binary no longer making the nozzles? i run those plus the cheap *** orange hose you can get from places like pegasus and such. $200 in supplies. ducting plus the rb pistons and over 5 years i have pad faded once and never boiled fluid.

 

Do you happen to have a thread showing how you routed your hoses? For a while I've wanted to look into ducts but I couldn't find how I'd route the hoses without robbing the oil cooler of air.

 

i dont think i ever really took pics. i did run a nozzle in front of the oil cooler, and im not sure it caused a huge increase in temps, however there was some. at this point my cooler is so dinged up from rock hits and such it needs to be replaced regardless.

 

Received the pistons. These things look really nice.