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Did you even read my post? Maybe you need to pay a professional to build your engine.
You also don't have 57mm journals. You have 1 and 2 sized journals. Which are smaller. This is why you should actually physically measure what you have. So, bust out a mic, and a dial bore gauge and see what you ACTUALLY have. Because even the factory numbering system gives you a range.
Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Jan 18, 2016 at 11:12 PM.
So you are saying if he buys ACL std and measures there is .0022" on a main journal, he can bring that down to .0017" by using an upper bearing in the std + .001 size, and a std lower bearing, if I understand correctly.
Or he can use double +.001's for a total of .0012"
What is your take on using the tri-coat type of bearing with a tight clearance such as .0012" with a thin 30W oil for a daily driver application? And do you feel that if the engine is using an OEM piston with low power levels that it should be using an OEM bearing as well? I am under the impression there are longevity issues associated more with the tri-coat bearings and OEM oiling systems, but it could be just people failing to measure accurately using off the shelf bearings, so I am curious on your opinion.
Did you even read my post? Maybe you need to pay a professional to build your engine.
You also don't have 57mm journals. You have 1 and 2 sized journals. Which are smaller. This is why you should actually physically measure what you have. So, bust out a mic, and a dial bore gauge and see what you ACTUALLY have. Because even the factory numbering system gives you a range.
yes i read
i measured yesterday and i have 57mm for the journals and 45mm for the pins
for rebuild my engine i have a set of steel R&R rods, they are an orientation side? R&R logo timing belt side maybe?
and for head i have ferrea competition valves with kiggly racing beehive valve springs titanium Retainers so i would like to know if the oem valve lockes are ok for this setup
Direction of the rods doesn't matter, if you're worried about, face them all the same way. What does matter is keeping each rod cap with its rod, and not putting it on backwards.
for the rings gap orientation i think that CP rings is a bad idea. I've never seen recommendations to do it as shown in the diagram, and even if I did I would throw it in the bin, it is all wrong
Last edited by PauloPinho; Apr 28, 2016 at 03:55 AM.
That's pretty standard ring positioning. Compression rings 180* of each other, and 90* to the pin, oil ring gaps on same side as one of the comp rings, 90* apart.
