Great to see this thing still running strong Gary! Hope all is well.

 

I've finally found a reason to add some window deflectors to my car! What's the latest rage out there for these after (12) years of owning the car without them?

 

Car's down for a few things:

1. Alternator - output, male connector contacts are eroding and are breaking off. I have it "ghetto rigged" for now, but it's dying fast.

2. Battery, Red Top - has cracked and leaking acid. Picking up tomorrow @ AutoZone (under warranty).

3. Turbo Internal WG Housing - needs replaced (again) due to poor modification (I'll take the blame for this one). Engine works, but can't push it hard...had to bail from NJMP Wednesday after second session because of boost leak from the WG.

4. O2 Sensor ("S") Pipe needs to be upgraded to SS. This can be done anytime and does not prevent the car from running.

 

New alternator is in, and new battery in as well. Everything is working with no CEL's after a test drive.

 

FYI: Had to swap out the ground post from the OEM unit to the remanufactured unit, for the OEM cable isn't compatible with the new units ground post. It comes off by removing a small nut and carefully prying it off its spindle with a screw driver:

 

Engine is starting to die at idle, as in, completely shuts off when I take my foot off the accelerator, whether I'm pulling into a driveway or beginning to slow down at a stop light. Then, it's as if its flooded and I can't get it started. If I hold the gas pedal to the floor, it seems to help it start. I'm not throwing any codes yet.

 

Found one of the MAF wires to be partially frayed pretty close to the connector, but was able to get some solder around it...let's see if that was the culprit.

 

Apparently, this was/is an ongoing dilemma, for there are many write-ups on it. I'm still researching for one conclusive remedy, but no luck yet...everything from a bad 12v ignition relay, to the IAC. Feel free to chime in.

 

Gary, check your evap purge solenoid, and then have a look at your spark plugs and measure compression of the cylinders.

 

Just more information I've noted: It runs fine otherwise, not like with a vacuum leak. When I let off the gas pedal, no matter what speed I'm doing, even hwy speed now, it'll die. I recently noted the AFR's get richer and richer, till the "fire went out." I'm picturing the throttle plate stuck closed...? I'll have to hold the pedal to the floor for it to restart, and it'll either start right up, or it won't as if its flooded or the throttle plate is stuck closed.

I'm trouble shooting the Evap solenoid as we speak.

 

Garrett, wouldn't a vacuum leak, or a bad purge solenoid throw a code eventually?

 

it should, but mine never did...it's strange that it dies like that. It's not throwing any codes eh? have you tried reflashing the ECU with your latest tune to reset it?

 

U say, "mine never did"...u mean with a bad evap purge solenoid? Anyhow, that's correct, no CEL as of yet...and I'm still to test the solenoid. I'm reading that a bad solenoid should produce a P0441 or 446 code, but nothing yet.

Exactly, thought about that, but I'm without a laptop darn it! You know, I'm dumping A LOT of fuel too! This thing is idling and cruising ~14.7 but, when taking my foot off the throttle, it gets really rich and sometimes fights to lean back up. When I note that it's about to die, I'll depress the throttle to the floor really quick and that will solved the issue temporarily. Sometimes that works to no avail and it'll die and I have to take evasive measures, lol! I'd like to reflash this thing and go from there...ugh.