I'm looking for some help here, it's kind of like a two part question. I'm swapping over the water lines from my stock turbo to an FP black and ran into a little problem.

On the stock turbo, there is a place to mount the support bracket on one of the water lines to the compressor housing (pic 2). On the FP black I got directly from FP it doesn't have one. The other water line mounted right up to it no problem (you can see it in pic 3). I don't know which one is send or return, so that is why I'm not referencing them that way.

So, the first question, is there not a place to mount the support to on a black?

Second issue, which might solve my first problem, I'm trying to install the line in the same configuration as my stock turbo but it leads me to an issue. The clamp that holds the hot side to the cold side is directly in the way to thread the bolt into the turbo (pic 1).
You can see in the pics how the clamp is just in the way (pic 1).

Now, I'm sure I can loosen it and rotate it out of my way, but before I do that, maybe the reason I'm not able to line it up is the fact I'm installing it the wrong way, which is why there is no place to mount the support bracket. I looked at it in every way I could but don't see how it could be installed any other way. Maybe there is no place to mount the line, and all I need to do is rotate the clamp and move on.

Any help or insight would be appreciated.

 

Hi Dana,

I wouldn't worry about the second coolant line not having a tab mount. Most people run it off the side of these FP series turbo's anyhow. I was told that FP makes differently bent coolant lines that do in fact run to each mounting location on the turbo, but I chose to use OEM lines. If that turbo clocking bracket is getting in the way of threading the coolant banjo bolt, I would absolutely loosen it up and move it back/ forward a bit. Here are some pictures of how I have my FP Black set up. You can see where I placed the coolant and Oil feed/return lines and where that bracket should be positioned:











Hope this helps!

-pal215

 

Wow! Thank you so much. That seriously helped so much. Clocking the clamp fixed my issue.

Really appreciate the help. Now if I just would have ordered oil drain tube gaskets I could finish the car. Doh!

Where in SD are you? I'm in temecula.

 

No problem! I'm in the Scripps Ranch/ Mira Mesa area. My evo hasn't been running for a few months now. Trying to bring her back to life within the next month or so.

-Pal215

 

Oh nice! I used to work at Qualcomm. Right by you.

Hey, did you install yours yet? Freaking stuck again! I thought I could reuse the donut gasket from the stock o2....nope! Trying to figure out what size I need. I wish FP would have said something!

 

Nice! Nope, I haven't installed it yet. I'm using a 1 piece downpipe and o2 housing with vband flanges to bypass the donut gasket. How much smaller is the donut gasket than the circle on Fp's o2 housing ? You might be able to just modify it by taking out some material on the ID of the gasket.

-pal215

 

As far as the donut ring on o2, you've got 3 options, enlarge the oem one, find a bigger one, or cut off the extended round part on the cast o2 and use a normal gasket instead.






Marios

 

Sounded like a much better idea than using the o2 housing!

Well, I ordered the flange FP sells incase your existing DP doesn't work and I didn't realize it....they gave me a donut gasket. It was sitting perfecting in the flange so at first glance I didn't see/notice it. I finally picked it up today and I saw it.

Now I have to cut my existing DP flange off and use this one. The ID is too small. So as soon as I do that it should work.

 

I kind of like that idea of cutting off that extended part on the o2 housing and using a normal 2 bolt flange gasket. I have never been a huge fan of spring bolts and donut gaskets. Too bad I bolted the dam turbo on the exhaust manifold already. lol.

 

I recently installed one of these on a friends car. Chnaging the flange to the FP flange was pretty straight forward. Just your old flange off the dp as close to the flange as possible. It's easier to trim the DP a bit more than add material back to it...


Also, the donut gasket a springs bolts are the best flange option. It allows the joint to flex (like when the engine moves), but still seal. You won't get that with a 2 bolt flange and gasket, it'll just start leaking.

 

Awesome. Thanks so much for your input. I'm taking it down to a welder tomorrow to cut the flange off and weld the new one on. I will ask him to cut it off as close as possible. I'm hoping all goes well. Depressing to just see a black sitting there on the car but can't finish it because of a DP.

Appreciate the input!

 

I wouldn't change the flange without being able to mock it all up on the car. When I did it, it took some finagling to get good fitment. It wasn;t just a simple/straight forward cut the old one off and weld the new one on.

 

Well I was really hoping it was going to be quite the opposite! I don't have a welder and since the car can't be driven, I was hoping I could just index the flange, hack it off and weld the new one on.

What issues did you have? Everything seemed to line up with my old DP, just the inlet was too small.

 

DP was pretty close to the oil pan. Like literally touching the sump (deep part). I had to hold the DP at a bit of an angle, and still had to dent the dp. It was a buschur DP, so fitment wasn't the greatest to begin with. But still worth noting.

 

Thanks! I got the DP on last night, guess I was lucky. I indexed the existing flange, had a welder cut and weld on the new flange and it worked out.

I have question about the wastegate. There are two top ports, and 3 or 4 bottom ports. I used the top port on the backside, do I now plug the top port on the very top of the waste gate? Any insight on configuration and how you hooked it up to a 3 port boost controller would help. The instructions weren't very helpful from tial.