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Every once in a while I pop in and I'm very happy to see this still going. Hope all is well Gary.
All is better than I deserve, that's for sure, and still struggling for His sake. Wife and eleven year old are doing the same. Pray for us, I'll do the same for you.
Gary, ARP makes exhaust studs in various lengths...
I haven't looked at their website yet but as I recall the dilemma at hand three years ago was finding a 10 millimeter bolt or stud with 1.25 pitch, for there are a plethora of 10 millimeter with 1.50 pitch. To save time, I went back in my thread and found the manufacturer that I used and ordered from them.
Unfortunately they had their stock mixed up in the wrong bin which resulted in the above.
True to their promise though, I received the studs before 10:30 this morning as FedEx pulled up into my driveway and delivered the parts to my doorstep. Feeling newly motivated, I went out into the garage to complete the dilemma at hand. What happened next was par for the course:
To keep a long story shorter, it wasn't just the stud that was stripped but rather the hole in the block as well, which I didn't rule out initially... live and learn. Need I say more as to what needed to be done?
Continuing, I went with a 7/16 inch tap which enabled me to use the same hole without any additional drilling, and without taking off the manifold assy. This went smoothly without a hitch, placed a 7/16" x 2.50" (.50" longer) coarse thread stud, remounted the manifold and tightened it in place...Voila:
Last edited by truthdweller; Feb 26, 2017 at 08:12 AM.
Btw, this did NOT take care of my power loss and inability to shift at WOT... imagine that.
Note: As I was reviewing the above post with the photographs, I was looking at the finished product (bottom photo) and I kept looking at the new stud, zoomed in close and realized that the nut and washer doesn't look seated flush against the manifold, compared to the other nut in the photograph...WTH?! I asked my eleven-year-old son to tell me what he could see and he said the same thing, lol!
So, we both went out into the garage, popped the hood, and realized almost immediately that what we were looking at was the reflection of the nut in the mirrored surface of the manifold...smh.
Last edited by truthdweller; Feb 25, 2017 at 08:25 AM.
I still need to go over your logs...what are the symptoms again?
Boost/acceleration appears to be fine off the start, but if I'm WOT the power starts to decrease at 4k rpms, the tach will hit a wall at 5000-5500 rpms, almost feels like a rev limiter, and won't progress/shift into second gear. When I lift off the pedal a tad, it pops into second and repeats the same symptoms up to 3rd etc, if I continue WOT.
Note: The ECU eventually threw a code, P0300, all cylinder misfire.
Last edited by truthdweller; Feb 26, 2017 at 12:41 AM.
Boost/acceleration appears to be fine off the start, but if I'm WOT the power starts to decrease at 4k rpms, the tach will hit a wall at 5000-5500 rpms, almost feels like a rev limiter, and won't progress/shift into second gear. When I lift off the pedal a tad, it pops into second and repeats the same symptoms up to 3rd etc, if I continue WOT.
Note: The ECU eventually threw a code, P0300, all cylinder misfire.
Edit: The AFR's are SUPER rich WOT! The gauge defaults to <10 with "- - -" showing on the gauge. If this is actually the case then Im picturing fuel is drowning the spark plugs causing a "multi cylinder misfire", P0300 which is the CEL that I eventually threw. And, iirc, I also popped an O2 sensor, Bank 1 Sensor 1, code before i broke the timing belt, but I cleared it to see if it would reoccur, which it didn't.
Anyhow Garrett, I'm replacing that O2 sensor to see if that's the culprit before anything else.
Edit: The AFR's are SUPER rich WOT! The gauge defaults to <10 with "- - -" showing on the gauge. If this is actually the case then Im picturing fuel is drowning the spark plugs causing a "multi cylinder misfire", P0300 which is the CEL that I eventually threw. And, iirc, I also popped an O2 sensor, Bank 1 Sensor 1, code before i broke the timing belt, but I cleared it to see if it would reoccur, which it didn't.
Anyhow Garrett, I'm replacing that O2 sensor to see if that's the culprit before anything else.
Have you done a boost leak test? A boost leak would certainly cause you to be lean at idle and rich at WOT. A bad o2 sensor would effect idle and cruise AFR's more than anything. At WOT, it's not using the values from the o2 sensor
Have you done a boost leak test? A boost leak would certainly cause you to be lean at idle and rich at WOT. A bad o2 sensor would effect idle and cruise AFR's more than anything. At WOT, it's not using the values from the o2 sensor
No I haven't, but the same was also mentioned today. Crap, didn't know that...I can still cancel the order and get a credit. The other shop I was at today has a smoker leak tester. Let's see what that reveals.
Have you done a boost leak test? A boost leak would certainly cause you to be lean at idle and rich at WOT. A bad o2 sensor would effect idle and cruise AFR's more than anything. At WOT, it's not using the values from the o2 sensor
I'm just thinking out loud...But why would a boost/vacuum leak keep the vehicle stuck at 5500 rpms and not shifting?
