Just curious as to why you would want a smaller stroker? I believe the Jun Kit offers a 91 stroker crank or the crower kit has a 91 stroke.

If you want to rev higher, you could go to a 2.1. That would be a 2.4 block with a 88MM stroke using a 4g63 crank.


I would like to hear David's opinion on custom billet cranks and any issues or successes he's had.

 

Just to answer this initial question- No. The 4g64 is the Galant and Eclipse 4cyl (and another model or two as well I believe). The 4g94 is the base Lancer engine, and it's not at all what you're looking for. Aside from the fairly lengthy stroke (95.8), it will not support a 4g6x type head. I suppose it could be modified in theory, but it would be a tremendous waste of time, money and effort. Obviously the topic of the thread has changed since this was posted, but I figured I'd clear up the misconception.

 

David, stellar response from an equally stellar individual. I like your style man, and I can say wth no uncertainty...if Al Friedman and yourself run your shortblocks in each of your respectful trims and intentions, I can make good use of it. I told you a while back I sold your make exhaust and bought a Helix because it suited my needs better. I wont lie, it has, and not to offend but there are just some things that I prefer. I make no attempt to say that I know more about picking parts, but for me, I know what I like and want to spend my money on.

Im tossing up turbo kits right now....and as it is, Im settling on a Full Race turbo kit, the AMS 1200hp fuel system, your AEM EMS package setup, TRE tranny and T-Case, my own body work YOUR 1000hp ignition setup and appropriate injectors. Overkill, but I like to have it and not need it rather than spend ALMOST as much and have to spend it AGAIn when I decide I do need it (reading this Jacbo? LOL, j/k man)


What I wil need motor wise is a completely built longblock, installed into the car, along with the tranny and t-case installed with a new clutch. Everything stock will be bolted up to the car, I'll take it home and proceed to installed the rest myself. I know you can do it better, but I want/need to learn.

Stage (Max) head, Toimei ProCams or HKS 280s, top shelf valves, retainers, springs, guides...anything that can be upgraded and cryo-treated Id prefer. Cmbustion chamber coating and piston crown coating seems to be a nice idea, but is it necessary? Id take your advice fully.

I want a 2.3 litre stroker, best rods, best pistons. I recall maybe you saying o-ringing a block is a bad idea, let the gasket fail first. ARP studs throughout, balance shafts gone. Totally race ready, for street/race duty. I understand how you back your engines, I have just seen it too many times where someone does a junk-build and doesn't honor it.


Your alky injection kit will be used also. After I get done installing everything and customizing it the way I'd like, I'll return to you or let Al tune the AEM and go from there.


So if you could PM me with your quote on a longblock and installation, and possiblt pulling the tranny to ship it to TRE or Shep and a new clutch install, thatd be great. Keep up the good work, and lets see some more vids bro!

 

The Stage 3 stroker engine is $3500, the Stage 3 head is $1650. You have some other misc. items you need to have it put in the car. New front cover and oil pump $300, timing belt and tensioner $185, gear lube-oil-antifreeze etc $100. Labor to do the entire job, including the transmission, t-case, clutch change or whatever is $1500.

My thoughts on the coating of the pistons/cc isn't needed. Same thing on the Cryo treating.

The custom billet crankshafts at this point don't seem needed either. Until we start breaking the factory Mitsubishi crank I wouldn't consider it.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Thanks for clearing that up.

 

David, a friend of mine just broke a stock 4g63 crank....I believe he was making 530whp on a GT35r kit, built by pruven, running 30psi on pump and alchohol.....Im concerned about that.....I dont see how so many high HP cars can be running these cranks and he breaks his.....


Anyways.....two questions. Turn around time on the entire project?

I.E; removal, send out tranny and t-case to TRE, head work, shortblock build, cam install....basically everything that is associated with the engine rebuild and streamlining of the engine bay (EGR removal, balance shaft removal etc etc), then reassembly with the stock turbo/manifold ecu and such. I want the engine and drivetrain to have to never be touched again, or at least for a long duration of time.......


Second, your cam selection for a GT35r? Ive read Tomei ProCams, Buddy Clubs...HKS 280s.....etc........



Oh, and one more question...when can I drop the car off? hahah

 

feldguy,

It is odd that your friends crank broke but making 530 whp on pump gas and alky may be a clue as to why. That is a ton of power to make with pump/alky. My guess is it failed from being hammered on from some amount of detonation, could be completely wrong but that would be my guess.

Turn around time. I have a completed stroker and normal 2 liter shortblock already built here on the stand. Either could leave immediately for you to do the work. For you to bring the car here and drop it off and pick it up would take about 2 weeks for the complete engine job.

You can drop the car off anytime. I would suggest using either the HKS 272 or 280 cams.

Give us a call.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

So Dave, lets say I use a GT35R turbo, your built motor and supporting mods, tuned to say....600whp on high octane race fuel.....what would be a safe number to hold onto with pump gas and alchohol injection to drive with on an almost daily basis....450? Maybe 475-500?

The job I was shooing for hasn't panned out, so Im going to resort to good old credit cars in another month or so, Ive just got somet things I need to take care of.

As far as the build goes, I'd rather pay you the 1500 dollars, and have John at TRE or Shep have the tranny worked over in the time she's sitting in pieces at BR. Im planning on a 20k expenditure to get this car the way I want it to, minus coilovers, a new racing seat for my fat a$$ and whatever other stuff breaks along the way....


But breaking a stock 4G63 crank....I just can't imagine that when there are so many cars running a ton more power than that, but I think you hit the nail on the head when you mentioned 530 and change being a bit too much on alky and pump.

Hopefully I'll be meeting you face to face in the next month or so. Take care

 

First we need to put the numbers into perspective for OUR dyno. Our dyno is reading 18% lower than our old 2wd Dynojet and about 15% lower than the junk AWD Dynojet a few miles from here.

With this said a GT35R tuned here on 118 octane at 32-33 psi with our stroker is putting down around 530 whp. This is fairl aggressive, not blow up and replace engines aggressive but it is not sissy tune.

On pump/alky on our dyno if I can make 400 whp I would be extremely happy. Consider that my RS went 11.3 at 120 at 330 whp.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

This sounds good. As I said I got the shaft on the hopeful job prospect, but good thing....I just got a raise at my current employer and the hires at that other job got the bait/switch. Promises of grandioso crap but nothing came through.


So, in reality Im buying the EMS, fuel system, and any other nick-nacks associated with doing this, with the intent of leaving the car with you, Dave and awaiting for your call. Ttys-James

 

They make their own cranks hence the higher costs.

 

Anytime you are ready to bring the car is fine. If you are in a hurry give me a call first and let me get the order together, then get the parts all done and waiting, this will shorten the time it is here.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Not to revive an old thread, however, if you still read this Dave...that new job prospect went down the toilet. In succession, I also had a guy stealing from me right under my nose and consequently went through several weeks of a very hard time at this job. I paid off all my credit cards only to rack them right back up due to time out sick...ugly cycle.


Just the same, Im stock-piling parts right now...and the reason Im starting this up again is, Im curious....though the majority of the work (more than 80%) will be done by BR, you dont take any particular offense if I showed up with a Full Race turbo kit and AMS fuel system? If so, I just might convince myself to go BR all the way, but Ive already gone into it quite a bit....so if its OK with you, there will be a trunk/truck full of parts coming along with my car....but as it looks now....Im defeated, at least for a couple of months.

 

We actually buy and install the AMS fuel kit, so we can even order it for you and do the install here, which we would prefer. The turbo kit, use whatever you like, I'll settle for 80%!

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

I have eagle rods for my 4g63 and i blew a custom ross piston skirt and the eagle rods didnt have a scratch on them. then i went with the cp pistons bored .20. no stroker though.