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Weld in roll cage

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Old May 6, 2011 | 06:15 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by scorke
Mouse FWIW I wouldn't take your car to Forged for a boost gauge install much less a weld in cage ( possibly live saving mod) job.

If you have any questions about Piper or Forged feel free to PM me for more info.

Sam
I totally agree, I made the mistake of going to Forged when I first moved back to ATL, I was naive.
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Old May 6, 2011 | 10:11 AM
  #17  
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Should have some pics here before end of the weekend of the Auto Power cage. Mine also came with with adjustable seat back braces and extra door bars that can be welded into place by the installer.
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Old May 6, 2011 | 12:08 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by EAVWIDL
Should have some pics here before end of the weekend of the Auto Power cage. Mine also came with with adjustable seat back braces and extra door bars that can be welded into place by the installer.
Sounds good, I'm looking forward to it.

Craig
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Old May 6, 2011 | 02:56 PM
  #19  
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I'm not a huge fan of gusseting the Pillars when you don't need to. If you bend the bar right you don't need to add the extra weight. Most shops loose tons of time and $ on cages because they don't do it often, so they get lazy and cut corners instead of getting the angles right for every car, because every car is unique. Not to say that their not any safer, just that their generic and don't fit as well as they should.

Some examples of taking the time to do it right:






Mine - since it's an ST/TT car he stitch welded everywhere. The bar you see in the A pillar? 6 inch welds with about 2 inches between them. On the open spaces you can bairly fit a piece of paper through there. Which means that in an impact, the cage and not the gusset takes the impact first.


Last edited by Balrok; May 6, 2011 at 03:08 PM.
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Old May 7, 2011 | 04:43 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Balrok
I'm not a huge fan of gusseting the Pillars when you don't need to. If you bend the bar right you don't need to add the extra weight. Most shops loose tons of time and $ on cages because they don't do it often, so they get lazy and cut corners instead of getting the angles right for every car, because every car is unique. Not to say that their not any safer, just that their generic and don't fit as well as they should.
Balrok , have you held a gusset like that in your hand? I would be surprised if the whole set added more than 4-5 lbs per total. Any sort of gusseting between the chassis and cage is a big help to reducing the amount that the cage twists independently of the top of the car. The more places you tie the cage into the chassis the more strength you get. Unless you are restricted by your sanctioning body to a given number of attachment points, if your budget permits the more the merrier when it comes to safety. Also your quote amongst the pictures, I believe you are referring to the B-pillar not the a-pillar. With regards to the cage taking the impact instead of the gusset, I can think of lots of reasons why you would want something other than the cage taking the impact in a big hit...

I do however totally agree that the bolt in style cages leave a lot of room for improvement when it comes to fitment and positioning in the chassis, but they also cost a LOT less, so it's a compromise.

Sam

Last edited by scorke; May 7, 2011 at 04:46 AM.
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Old May 7, 2011 | 05:11 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by scorke
I do however totally agree that the bolt in style cages leave a lot of room for improvement when it comes to fitment and positioning in the chassis, but they also cost a LOT less, so it's a compromise.

Sam
I don't want to compromise when it comes to my safety.


Excellent discussion btw, this is the kind of information I was looking for. Thanks for the helpful input!

-Craig
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Old May 10, 2011 | 02:52 PM
  #22  
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This is the 6 point cage I ordered from Auto Power. The fitment was perfect and required no grinding, cutting or beating. The cage is very solid. Don't know if this helps with your decision or not.
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Old May 10, 2011 | 03:53 PM
  #23  
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Thanks for the pictures. How is the clearance with your left leg while driving?

Craig
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Old May 10, 2011 | 07:47 PM
  #24  
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You can also check out Robinson Racing up in Cumming. They will build any cage to meet any specs.

They have built a lot of cages for many race teams.

Lucas
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Old May 10, 2011 | 07:53 PM
  #25  
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Tthat bolt in cage cannot be good for drag racing ?
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Old May 11, 2011 | 10:43 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by sacul33
You can also check out Robinson Racing up in Cumming. They will build any cage to meet any specs.

They have built a lot of cages for many race teams.

Lucas
Thanks!! That is not far from where I live. I will look them up and call this afternoon.

Craig (Kuruma on EvoA)
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Old May 11, 2011 | 10:58 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by scorke






Piper Motorsports Manassas VA hand's down.

Ask for Robbie or Mich.

Sam
Awesome...that is a pretty serious cage right there...
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Old May 11, 2011 | 12:52 PM
  #28  
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From: mt.holly, n.c.
Originally Posted by mouseIX
Thanks for the pictures. How is the clearance with your left leg while driving?

Craig
No problem, Obviously its a little tighter but still just fine for driving.
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Old May 11, 2011 | 12:55 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Aliengotpsi
Tthat bolt in cage cannot be good for drag racing ?
While it might not be specifically approved by NHRA it will be more than sufficient for the weekend drag racer.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 11:55 AM
  #30  
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^not if you in the 10's
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