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Old Jul 26, 2011, 06:14 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by OntRalliart09
My pump just broke too, i can not believe this component critical to drive train operation is not covered under the drive train warranty. What else isn't covered? I'm 99% sure i'm going to sell this car if they make me pay the full price!

It frequently dips below -25C around here so i'm sure that's the cause. I work in the aerospace industry and have access to all sorts of interesting hydraulic fluids. I'm sure I can find something much better for the cold, considering the temperatures the hydraulic systems on planes are exposed to. I would need to know what material the seals are though... probably not going to find that on google

Anyways, if i'm paying for a new pump ill get the old one and tear it apart to see if its rebuild-able.

Did you have the latest ECU flash in place when the pump failed? It has fix for ACD operation in low temperatures (TSB SC-09-002).
Old Jul 28, 2011, 08:29 AM
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OK, so the new pump is installed, and all is working fantastically! I got Mitsu Newmarket to do the install, and it was only 2.5hrs labour. Total cost for all parts and labour was $1000 (half of the "new" cost).

The pump, upon finally seeing it, was pristine! No corrosion whatsoever, looked to be brand new. I was impressed. So once I got home from the USA, I called Mitsu to see how much the install would be, since I didn't have much time to do it myself.

UNFORTUNATELY...I forgot to tell them I wanted the old pump back, so they just tossed it into their disposal, and the truck came not even an hour before I picked the car up. Kinda bummed about that, but what can I do now?

So going forward, how will I prevent this thing from corroding? Well I asked a few mechanically inclined people, and they all said to NOT plasti-dip, or similar. That is too much of an insulator, and could cause the pump and pressure components to overheat (pressurizing stuff gets hot). The better suggestion was to use off the shelf anti-rust spray, as that will stick, and still do the job. Just needs to be re-applied incrementally. I bought a can, and will do this soon.
Old Jul 28, 2011, 09:50 AM
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That's good news! glad it all worked out.

But, could you tell us where you got the pump from? in case one of us falls into the same boat?
Old Jul 28, 2011, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by suprPHREAK
OK, so the new pump is installed, and all is working fantastically! I got Mitsu Newmarket to do the install, and it was only 2.5hrs labour. Total cost for all parts and labour was $1000 (half of the "new" cost).

The pump, upon finally seeing it, was pristine! No corrosion whatsoever, looked to be brand new. I was impressed. So once I got home from the USA, I called Mitsu to see how much the install would be, since I didn't have much time to do it myself.

UNFORTUNATELY...I forgot to tell them I wanted the old pump back, so they just tossed it into their disposal, and the truck came not even an hour before I picked the car up. Kinda bummed about that, but what can I do now?

So going forward, how will I prevent this thing from corroding? Well I asked a few mechanically inclined people, and they all said to NOT plasti-dip, or similar. That is too much of an insulator, and could cause the pump and pressure components to overheat (pressurizing stuff gets hot). The better suggestion was to use off the shelf anti-rust spray, as that will stick, and still do the job. Just needs to be re-applied incrementally. I bought a can, and will do this soon.

Thats 'Rust check - rust inhibitor'. I ****ing love that ****. I always have a few cans on hand and spray my cars often in hard to reach and esxposed areas. Fenders, wheel wells. brake components you name it. ****s boss.

Last edited by deanob; Jul 28, 2011 at 11:31 AM.
Old Jul 28, 2011, 10:41 AM
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Here I thought I was the only one going to town with the anti-rust spray. Glad to know I'm not alone
Old Jul 29, 2011, 02:12 PM
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I just got came back from the dealer today because of that. They said it was not covered because my car is at 40,000 miles and they want $2100 to fix it. What a bunch of BS. This stuff always happens after the warranties go out. It would be great to find a cheaper one or maybe even fix this one.
Old Jul 30, 2011, 01:55 PM
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So the ACD is only covered by the 'new car' warranty and not the powertrain warranty?
Old Jul 30, 2011, 05:34 PM
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That seems to be the case. That's what they told me anyway.
Old Jul 30, 2011, 08:22 PM
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That is very disappointing news.

But I'm glad I decided to get an extended 3rd-party warranty that covers all the items listed in the new car warranty. It wasn't cheap though.
Old Jul 30, 2011, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by TrailBrake
Did you have the latest ECU flash in place when the pump failed? It has fix for ACD operation in low temperatures (TSB SC-09-002).
No, did not have the update. Does anyone have a link to an online copy of that tsb?
Old Jul 31, 2011, 08:04 AM
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The doc links that I have for that TSB don't work now, but if you mention the TSB # to a dealer that has a competent service manager (no easy feat to find in the GTA), they will do the flash for you free of charge.

There is reference to the TSB in this thread:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...rt-used-2.html

Last edited by TrailBrake; Jul 31, 2011 at 08:06 AM.
Old Aug 4, 2011, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Slyy
That's good news! glad it all worked out.

But, could you tell us where you got the pump from? in case one of us falls into the same boat?

eBay

it was a risk, but worth it.
Old Aug 4, 2011, 07:52 AM
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I am in the midst of experiencing exactly the same problem, except that I took my Ralliart in to the dealer, and arrived there with the odometer reading 59,985km, just 15 km (ten miles) shy of the warranty (yes, the ACD warning indicator came on that close to the warranty being up).

visit #1: the warning indicator didn't come on for the drive to the dealership, so they checked around (noticed that the C161E fault had been logged) and then just did a quick ECU update -- one of the mechanics likely suspected that it was the pump, because I overheard him being overridden. The light came on about half an hour from the dealership, so I called and told them I'd be back in the next week (they said they'd honour the warranty).

visit #2: a week later, the warning light was now on almost continuously, so I took the car back to the dealer -- they calibrated several sensors and did both the fault ECU update and another one (can't recall which) -- service took several hours, after which the warning light was gone, but now I'm into the flashing TARMAC/GRAVEL/SNOW thing. At this point I checked here and figured out that my ACD pump is almost certainly toast.

My dealer has been very good about this (well, aside from not managing to fix the pump yet), but I'm a bit wary -- they tell me I'm OK driving eight hours to Halifax and back (for vacation next week).

(upcoming) visit #3: they say they'll check the pump and that it would still be covered by warranty because of the odometer at my first visit -- figure my warranty coverage is hanging by a thread, but keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks to everyone here for clarifying the problem, because I was terrified that it was some sort of phantom sensor/electrical thing that would be ******* my car for years. Of course, doesn't hurt that I likely won't be paying for the repair this time around (ample evidence on the web that this can be a recurring issue in some Mitsubishi vehicles).

Anyone know where you can buy a new replacement ACD pump? I wouldn't mind having a new one on hand if it's potentially a recurring thing, because the warranty repair will presumably be with a reconditioned part.
Old Aug 4, 2011, 11:38 AM
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Give the on-line suppliers a call (Mitsubishiparts.com, Mitsubishiparts.net, OEMMitsubishiparts.com, etc.) and ask for a quote. Most, if not all of them seem to be dealers down in the States.

Their list price for just about everything is far cheaper than we pay up here.
Old Aug 9, 2011, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by aestival
they tell me I'm OK driving eight hours to Halifax and back (for vacation next week).
you WILL be fine, just avoid any situations where you might actually need the ACD to do any work. Effectively, your system is operating in "dumb" mode. It doesnt know how to react to any situations any more than a car with a regular mechanical center diff. I drove to Florida and back on mine with the issue, and once the pump was replaced, all went back to normal.


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