Buschur Racing Shortblocks.. New Lineup!!! 2.1L Race Engine Now Available!!!
Aug 21, 2009, 06:59 PM
#18
Well...................it seems the cat is out of the bag now! Not sure I was ready yet Mike! haha
I have some things I need to add as I wasn't clear when I AIM'd Mike earlier. We have built 6, 2.1's so far and they are not all sold. The current pistons are not skirt coated and they are actually 9.5:1. The next batch of 40 pistons will have some changes made to them, skirt coating (which I do more because everyone wants it than because I think it's needed) and the compression on the new pistons will be 10:1.
There are other companies who have been doing 2.1's for some time, most notably AMS of the companies I know of. In the past I tuned one 2.1 engine in a high profile customer of ours EVO. It was one of the worst engines I have ever tuned (not AMS's by the way). We spent an entire day on the dyno moving cam gears and working the combination, at the end of the day I suggested he pull the miserable POS out of the car and replace it with a good 2 liter. He did that, car ran correctly and made big power and at the time set some records. I was, at that point in time, skeptical and against the 2.1 liter.
Flash forward to this year. I want to drive my RS a lot again. I have been running a hard blocked engine in the car for two years. I drove it but would get nervous after 40-50 miles. Keep in mind I monitored oil temps and have never seen them over 185 degrees even with no coolant in the block, still made my backside pucker up and I would not drive the car for hours on end, I probably still won't but that's beside the point. The 4g63 block wil split the cylinder walls in it at high horsepower levels. We split 2 blocks in our black EVO drag car and I split one in the RS. Wasting $1800 blocks is stupid so you hard block them so the problem is solved. This year I decided that since the 4G64 block is known to not split I would build an engine based on that block. The 2.1 made sense. I got with AMS actually and bought their water pump kit and head gasket for the build I did. I will use their pump/gasket in the future too.
The stock 4g63 belt and cam gears actually work, just need to be "modified".
There are some other things that are a bit odd when you combine the 4g64 block and 4g63 head but those details will be supplied when needed.
Yes, my RS is running one of our 2.1's now, as described above in this post, I am using GRP rods. So far so good. Unlike the last 2.1 I tuned this one went perfectly smooth instantly, stock cam gears, no problems at all. The power band on my car is higher from 3,000 to 9,000 rpm than it ever has been on our 272 cams.
There is extra head work that can be done when you change to the 2.1 and the valves can be unshrouded further to help improve flow. I attribute the power gains to the longer rod and the changes to the head.
The dyno comparison was done with the same boost levels as the 2 liter. Track testing was done at 42.7 psi of peak boost, 9.17 at 158, 9.13 at 158 and 9.13 again, this was done in 95 degree heat. AIT's peaked at 142 degrees, coolant temps at 210-213, it was HOT.
Keep in mind with the dyno/track testing the car received the head porting to match the cylinder bores which is really something that has to be done in my opinion, without it I think problems that I saw on the first 2.1 I tuned (the one I spoke of earlier) would arrise. The car is also running our completed/perfected intake manifold.
I have some things I need to add as I wasn't clear when I AIM'd Mike earlier. We have built 6, 2.1's so far and they are not all sold. The current pistons are not skirt coated and they are actually 9.5:1. The next batch of 40 pistons will have some changes made to them, skirt coating (which I do more because everyone wants it than because I think it's needed) and the compression on the new pistons will be 10:1.
There are other companies who have been doing 2.1's for some time, most notably AMS of the companies I know of. In the past I tuned one 2.1 engine in a high profile customer of ours EVO. It was one of the worst engines I have ever tuned (not AMS's by the way). We spent an entire day on the dyno moving cam gears and working the combination, at the end of the day I suggested he pull the miserable POS out of the car and replace it with a good 2 liter. He did that, car ran correctly and made big power and at the time set some records. I was, at that point in time, skeptical and against the 2.1 liter.
Flash forward to this year. I want to drive my RS a lot again. I have been running a hard blocked engine in the car for two years. I drove it but would get nervous after 40-50 miles. Keep in mind I monitored oil temps and have never seen them over 185 degrees even with no coolant in the block, still made my backside pucker up and I would not drive the car for hours on end, I probably still won't but that's beside the point. The 4g63 block wil split the cylinder walls in it at high horsepower levels. We split 2 blocks in our black EVO drag car and I split one in the RS. Wasting $1800 blocks is stupid so you hard block them so the problem is solved. This year I decided that since the 4G64 block is known to not split I would build an engine based on that block. The 2.1 made sense. I got with AMS actually and bought their water pump kit and head gasket for the build I did. I will use their pump/gasket in the future too.
The stock 4g63 belt and cam gears actually work, just need to be "modified".
There are some other things that are a bit odd when you combine the 4g64 block and 4g63 head but those details will be supplied when needed.
Yes, my RS is running one of our 2.1's now, as described above in this post, I am using GRP rods. So far so good. Unlike the last 2.1 I tuned this one went perfectly smooth instantly, stock cam gears, no problems at all. The power band on my car is higher from 3,000 to 9,000 rpm than it ever has been on our 272 cams.
There is extra head work that can be done when you change to the 2.1 and the valves can be unshrouded further to help improve flow. I attribute the power gains to the longer rod and the changes to the head.
The dyno comparison was done with the same boost levels as the 2 liter. Track testing was done at 42.7 psi of peak boost, 9.17 at 158, 9.13 at 158 and 9.13 again, this was done in 95 degree heat. AIT's peaked at 142 degrees, coolant temps at 210-213, it was HOT.
Keep in mind with the dyno/track testing the car received the head porting to match the cylinder bores which is really something that has to be done in my opinion, without it I think problems that I saw on the first 2.1 I tuned (the one I spoke of earlier) would arrise. The car is also running our completed/perfected intake manifold.
Aug 21, 2009, 07:03 PM
#19
The 2.1, quite honestly, is geared mostly for a guy who needs an inexpensive block after ruining his 4g63 block. It is also for someone who needs to have a full wet block and push power limits beyond where the 4g63 will not split a cylinder.
You could use this engine for anything, street, strip or road racing. It is not a huge difference in power in the low/mid range compared to a 2 liter, so if you want a lot of low/mid range go with a 2.3 stroker.
I did not build this engine for the RPM capabilities either, BTW. The 2 liter will rev higher than we have ever needed to rev one. 10,000 rpm is no problem. I did this engine for one purpose only, to put a wet block back in the car so I can autocross/road race or drive it across country without the worry of the hardblock and oil temps.
My RS was crossing the finish line in 4th gear at 158.xx mph this weekend at 9570 rpm, that is on the stock gear ratio.
You could use this engine for anything, street, strip or road racing. It is not a huge difference in power in the low/mid range compared to a 2 liter, so if you want a lot of low/mid range go with a 2.3 stroker.
I did not build this engine for the RPM capabilities either, BTW. The 2 liter will rev higher than we have ever needed to rev one. 10,000 rpm is no problem. I did this engine for one purpose only, to put a wet block back in the car so I can autocross/road race or drive it across country without the worry of the hardblock and oil temps.
My RS was crossing the finish line in 4th gear at 158.xx mph this weekend at 9570 rpm, that is on the stock gear ratio.
Aug 23, 2009, 10:41 PM
#22
Hardblock is the term used for concrete filling your block where it used to have water that circulated.. Helps combat the cracking of a sleeve..
Wet block is the standard block where mechanical water pump circulates the water thru the motor..
Wet block is the standard block where mechanical water pump circulates the water thru the motor..
Sep 17, 2009, 01:35 PM
#27
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does anyone know around what horsepower levels that spliting a cylinder in the 4g63 becomes a concern?
I'm guessing at right around 700 on Buschur's mustang dyno?
I'm guessing at right around 700 on Buschur's mustang dyno?
Sep 17, 2009, 01:43 PM
#28
I personally cannot say.. I think its fatigure more than the straight HP #... I have made 900 COnsistent and as much as 1000hp and never split.. My 1st motor that had 650whp for over a year and a hlaf finally split a sleeve..
Mike
Mike
