Solving the HKS 272 Cam Timing Mystery
Originally Posted by Dyno4mance
I will email them to you tomorrow Ted 
Originally Posted by Ted B
No, I went back to the -3/-3 because I prefer the better midrange pop. Like I said, the -4/-1.5 gave a better idle and just a bit more peak power, but the drop in torque more than offset any benefits. I'll post all the charts as soon as I get them.
How did the -3-3 compare to the -2-2 set up?
Here is the graph. The red curve is the -3/-3, the blue is the -4/-1.5.
As you can see, the peak power numbers with the latter cam timing are slightly better, however, there is too much lag and torque lost below 4000rpm, which makes it not as quick to respond on the street. At 4000rpm, the -4/-1.5 is down some 40ft/lbs of torque. When it catches up and passes the -3/-3 combo, the difference in both hp and torque hovers only around 5 ft/lbs (and hp).
Essentially what this illustrates is that where changes in cam timing are concerned, you usually give up something to gain something else. As to which is preferrable depends on the intended use of the car. For street applications, I chose to stay with the -3/-3.
As you can see, the peak power numbers with the latter cam timing are slightly better, however, there is too much lag and torque lost below 4000rpm, which makes it not as quick to respond on the street. At 4000rpm, the -4/-1.5 is down some 40ft/lbs of torque. When it catches up and passes the -3/-3 combo, the difference in both hp and torque hovers only around 5 ft/lbs (and hp).
Essentially what this illustrates is that where changes in cam timing are concerned, you usually give up something to gain something else. As to which is preferrable depends on the intended use of the car. For street applications, I chose to stay with the -3/-3.
Hmm.. very interesting.. I like the earlier gains for the -3/-3 Did you find the idle was still degraded with this timing? Since you basically are retaining the same cam overlap..
Too bad you couldn't overlay a baseline (no cams) run on that same graph..
I have to agree, I'd take the gain in torque at lower RPM over the slight loss in upper RPM power..
Too bad you couldn't overlay a baseline (no cams) run on that same graph..
I have to agree, I'd take the gain in torque at lower RPM over the slight loss in upper RPM power..
The car has only a slight 'rump' in the idle with the -3/-3.
I couldn't overlay a baseline with no cams because we installed the Vishnu Stg 1+++ setup at once, and therefore we have no means of isolating gains attributable solely to the cams.
I couldn't overlay a baseline with no cams because we installed the Vishnu Stg 1+++ setup at once, and therefore we have no means of isolating gains attributable solely to the cams.
Interesting results! For 1/4 mile track outings -4 /-1.5 would be better since once your out of 1st you'd be on the powa all the time. I wonder how would that setting would work on a 264/272 setup?...
I tried -3/-1 and it idled like stock and all my vacuum came back. I'm back at -3/-3. Suxors not having a reputable AWD dyno in town.
I tried -3/-1 and it idled like stock and all my vacuum came back. I'm back at -3/-3. Suxors not having a reputable AWD dyno in town.
Originally Posted by nirvevo
[...]I'm getting ready to slap in the 272/264 set up myself (based on the stock set up, a local tuner's advice, and Dustin's recommendations
not in the forum but over the phone.
I got the same story, the tuner told me that "the air has to be coaxed in (at least relative to the exhaust, where-as the exhaust has no choice but to exit, because of pressure and vacume considerations, it got a little technical after that.)
Supposedly I'll be picking up a flow advantage over stock, or a straight 264, or a 264/272 set up, but it will keep the idle and drivabilty of the car a little more civilized than a straight 272, for the street.
not in the forum but over the phone. I got the same story, the tuner told me that "the air has to be coaxed in (at least relative to the exhaust, where-as the exhaust has no choice but to exit, because of pressure and vacume considerations, it got a little technical after that.)
Supposedly I'll be picking up a flow advantage over stock, or a straight 264, or a 264/272 set up, but it will keep the idle and drivabilty of the car a little more civilized than a straight 272, for the street.
Lac
Originally Posted by Noize
Heh. After looking at that graph, I might rethink my stance on this. I like hyperkinetic power delivery. For a racing application, the superiority of the -4/-1 can't be ignored.
Originally Posted by Imyurturboluva
Rethink is right. Even for racing, torque will get you out of the hole or the corner. The -4/-1 was not best all along. See? Even the dynobutt lies.
Originally Posted by Noize
That might be true for autocross tracks that require more low speed first gear, but in road racing or on the dragstrip, every upshift from ~7200rpm is going to land you in a spot with more power.
I'm with Noize on this one, I'd take the power over spoolup (plus the smoother idle). However, I seem to spool up just as fast with my 272's at -4/-1 as I did with the stock cams. I don't have a comparison on the same dyno/octane, though 
Thanks for posting the charts, TB
l8r)

Thanks for posting the charts, TB
l8r)
thats a good point......im never under 4000rpm while 1/4 racing..other than my launch ofcourse....so then why would i need the torque at lower rpm points which are never going to be used at the strip except for that first gear.......anyways on the street i usually start from a 4krpm roll in first or second......
so basically that torque wont be used unless your autocrossing or racing from street light to street light.....hmmmmmmm what to do is a good question here...
so basically that torque wont be used unless your autocrossing or racing from street light to street light.....hmmmmmmm what to do is a good question here...









