-3/-3 spools just a little quicker and has a bumpity idle.

-4/-1 idles like stock, spools a little later, and gives a few more hp at the peak.

 

Yep I would completely agree.

 

I dunno if it's been mentioned in here before, and it is fairly obvious why, but my egts are higher at -3,-3 than at -4,-1. I was surprised what a difference 2 degrees made. I'm still up in the air as to which setting I like better. I think I'm going back to -4,-1 for the winter.

 

The EGTs are higher at the -3/-3 setting because the increased overlap likely results in a bit of burning fuel vapor making it into the exhaust system.

 

so what's the best combo for the 264/264 Cams? assuming that I want a Stock like Idling and get the most out of it

 

Earlier someone had asked about testing with different offsets. Late last summer I tested my Evo (with Piper Rally cams) running all the way from +2/+2 to -4/-4. I also tested several different offset combinations.

What people found here closely matches what I saw on the dyno. More advanced timing did increase early torque, but I generally found more power as I retarded the cams. Increasing the spread helped the top end a bit more. I think Shiv is dead on with his recomendations for a street biased car. My car is dialed in more for track days, and I can really feel the lost bottom end torque on the street.

 

anyone here tried the HKS track setup for the 272s ??

I ran the 106.5 i / 109 e explosive power from low to high .. except it can't idle for nuts ..

No dyno figures .. but I log MAF .. against 110i / 112e .. the MAF freqs increased overall approx 10% ..

 

Bringing this one up...

I'm confused at the -4/-1 vs -2/-2 settings after reading up on the 280 cam setting results.

Do you think this contradicting information is due to the different Dyno on which tests were conducted or the different Cam duration?

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...7&postcount=51
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...4&page=4&pp=15

 

I don't think you're giving these numbers correctly. What were the settings on your cam gears for each?

 

Not sure why you're confused, Jorge ... I would assume that the settings for the 280's would be different than for the 272's, so it's no surprise that the -4/-1 settings don't work that well on the 280's. Badazzcr's numbers seem to speak for themselves.

l8r)

 

I'll be dyno testing the setting that demonstrate the high torque setting (Badazzcr's test) with the 280s on my setup next weekend.

 

Just re-read Silver Surfers thread on the topic and saw all the track test evidence that -4/-1 works best for 272s. I really wanted to understand if it was the cams or the dyno type that was reading different. Looks like the 280s are a whole different animal.

Edit...Ted cool! I noticed that your test confirmed the slower spool of the -4/-1, what Silver thought was a dyno error.

 

Ted, these are the right numbers. . japanese tune based on LCA's .. so on the gears, you get (106.5I/109E) -3.5I/+1E .. the other setting (110I/112E) is 0I / -2E

Any feedback or inputs ?? Of course these are run on the HKS3037 series turbos ..

 

Ok, remember that each cam degree = 2 crank degrees. Cam settings are dialed on cam gears in cam degrees. Lobe centers and other cam events are expressed in crank degrees.

The HKS cams are all ground on 110deg lobe centers with a 110deg LSA (lobe separation angle). Therefore, the cam setting -3.5I/+1E = 117I/112E lobe centers. This gives a wider LSA of 114.5deg, which reduces overlap and smooths idle quality at the expense of a little spool time. The slight delay of the intake valve events raises high rpm power just a bit.

The 0I/-2E setting = 110I/106E lobe centers and a LSA of 108 deg, which is going to make for a very bumpy idle, with quick spool and lots of torque once things get rolling.

 

Nope .. I still quoted the correct ones
The degree is set as per what is mentioned.. except it's not the CAM gear degree .. sorry about the confusion .. cam gear degrees mean nothing .. and I don't understand why pple talk about that .. :P THEREFORE .. it's CRANK -3.5 /+1E and 0I/-2E

I don't think HKS have a 110LSA (unless you're talking about 1mm valve lift ??)

Er...I think you're wrong regarding the exhaust LCA .. when you retard exhaust, your LCA increases .. since the angle is counted backwards compared to intake..

Anyway .. back to the question
did anyone ever tried the HKS settings ???
Ted, your info helped alot in me setting up my car .. thanks again !