if after you started the car you have a green LED, then the map loaded correctly. If its blinking orange...it didn't load.

 

Here's the instructions I have... no "case cracking" needed.

 

The remote LED is a made upgrade by the customers. If you do a search, there is a thread that speaks about it. You don't have to crack open the case of the Xede, but you do have to add two wires to one of the Xede's connectors, and run them to an LED that you would purchase at Radio Shack. If you have trouble finding the thread (I suggest searching "LED" in the Vishnu forum) then I'll try to dig it up for you.

- Steve

 

Ah, you beat me to it, lol

 

Thanks guys!

 

Bump for this question.

 

This may sound like a dumb question, but are you talking about a stock 05MR? Or one with an XEDE?

Shiv

 

EDIT: information incorrect.

You might also want to note that he's at high altitude (just like me )

d

 

It's a 05 MR equipped with a XEDE and catback exhaust. No SMART.

EDIT: It does have the latest smart firmware and I'm using the correct Xmap. This only occurs when Launch Control is on, with it off this never happens.

 

How is timing shift determined. Is it taken from what the timing cells indicate, or is it measure by calculating (CASout - CASin)?

d

 

IRT reading the baseline timing chart.....am I to interpret that on anything but a race map has timing pulled? And is it seriously adjusted to the tenth of a degree?

Example - If I have -.9 does that mean I am pulling .9 of a degree of timing or does it mean I am pulling .9% of all timing?

 

maybe i missed this somewhere else along the way, but is it possible to install a MAP sensor and use it with the xede? a 3.5 bar sensor is only like $100, i think i'd be cool to be able to log boost along with everything else. of course, even better if we can use it for maps.

why doesnt the xede use a map sensor?

 

Shiv, here's one for you. I've been hitting the dragstrip alot lately since the S.M.A.R.T. install and I've been running into the same problem. I run my best E.T and MPH on my first and second run and then slow down about 2/10's to 3/10's with my trap speed also suffering about a 2 to 3 MPH loss. The car slows down, but is consistent in ET and MPH. That is happening with my water injection tune and with the race gas tune I tried yesterday at Fontana. The real stumper is when I let the car cool down for about a 1/2 hour to an hour, the car still is stuck at that slower ET. That has never happened to me before. Over 90% of the time my car ran quicker when I did a long cool down. Also as the evening progresses, my car didn't get any quicker. That is also a first for me. The cooler night air always were good for faster times. It seems to me that the S.M.A.R.T. is adjusting the A/F ratios and mabe timing to a more conservative level. I'm a bit confused. It would be interesting to see if anybody else is having this problem at the track.

 

I'd like to know this !

 

I have a few questions related on how to tune out knock events with the SMART system.

In the smart timing section of the document it states "It is not unusual for this (SMART timing intervened) to happen during the normal course of driving, from time to time". Clearly if timing is pulled enough for one to feel it in the car and it happens more or less every pull, then I'm guessing that this should be fixed. (I have one of these at ~4700 RPM.)

But what about the if during heat soak the smart timing table wonders one cell above the happy zone? Should this be tuned out if it only occurs during heat soak runs?

I know it is basic, but for the Evo's engine is it better to first add fuel or pull timing to resolve knock events? For timing what delta is suggested to have a meaningful effect (e.g. 0.1 or what)?