Stalling in traffic with 272 cam gears
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From: Pittsburgh & Herndon
Originally Posted by SuperHatch
No
. Anyone have a pic to point me in the right direction. I can not find the idle screw.Thanks for any help.
Originally Posted by gt420hp
Need some guidance on what I should do. Just modded the car with 272 cam gears, upgraded fuel pump, adjustable cam gears set at -2,-2 and new plugs. While in traffic, if I start up, go to about 1,500 to 2,000 rpm move forward about 2 or 3 feet and push the clutch back in and hit the brakes to stop the car will drop rpm's quickly...and stall. Just happened on a busy road this morning. I could not get the car started after stalling. I waited about 10 seconds, tried to get it started, wouldn't started. I had to wait about 90 seconds (which seemed like 5 hours with everyone honking at me), before it would turn over and start.
I am running Vishnu map V390.
Is there a problem with this base map?
Seems like its too much fuel being dumped...?
Is this a Vishnu issue with upgrade cams? or does everyone who upgrades their cams experience this?
I am running Vishnu map V390.
Is there a problem with this base map?
Seems like its too much fuel being dumped...?
Is this a Vishnu issue with upgrade cams? or does everyone who upgrades their cams experience this?
- if you stalled it, when you go to restart, feather the gas pedal while it is turning over (you may have to crank it for 4-5 seconds). After you get it running again, it will most likely want to stall again ... try running the rpms up to 2500 for a few seconds and let it slowly go back down to idle (in my case this seems to help). You may also throw a CEL when you start your car after a stall.
- think about changing your cam gear settings to -4/-1. I used to have a v390 setup with HKS 272 cams set to -4/-1 on the stock clutch, and I never had stalling issues ... not with AC ... not with AC and lights ... never. IMO the -2/-2 or -3/-3 settings are more prone to stall (I have been in XEDE/Xflashed cars with these settings).
The startup issue(s) after stalling or in really cold weather does seem to be a XEDE related problem, as my car starts up better w/out the XEDE in these situations.
I had to learn to drive my current setup (Exedy Twin Metallic clutch, HKS 280 cams, etc.) and can drive it w/out stalling 99% of the time now, but it takes a lot more skill than the stock and v390 setups did.
l8r)
Last edited by Ludikraut; Jan 28, 2006 at 09:41 AM.
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Originally Posted by gt420hp
Then I don't know where to look
. Anyone have a pic to point me in the right direction. I can not find the idle screw.
Thanks for any help.
. Anyone have a pic to point me in the right direction. I can not find the idle screw.Thanks for any help.
d the idle screw....
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Originally Posted by Ludikraut
I get the EXACT same thing on my current setup (which is well beyond a v390), especially the re-start issues after it has stalled. Some advice/things-to-try:
- if you stalled it, when you go to restart, feather the gas pedal while it is turning over (you may have to crank it for 4-5 seconds). After you get it running again, it will most likely want to stall again ... try running the rpms up to 2500 for a few seconds and let it slowly go back down to idle (in my case this seems to help). You may also throw a CEL when you start your car after a stall.
- think about changing your cam gear settings to -4/-1. I used to have a v390 setup with HKS 272 cams set to -4/-1 on the stock clutch, and I never had stalling issues ... not with AC ... not with AC and lights ... never. IMO the -2/-2 or -3/-3 settings are more prone to stall (I have been in XEDE/Xflashed cars with these settings).
The startup issue(s) after stalling or in really cold weather does seem to be a XEDE related problem, as my car starts up better w/out the XEDE in these situations.
I had to learn to drive my current setup (Exedy Twin Metallic clutch, HKS 280 cams, etc.) and can drive it w/out stalling 99% of the time now, but it takes a lot more skill than the stock and v390 setups did.
l8r)
- if you stalled it, when you go to restart, feather the gas pedal while it is turning over (you may have to crank it for 4-5 seconds). After you get it running again, it will most likely want to stall again ... try running the rpms up to 2500 for a few seconds and let it slowly go back down to idle (in my case this seems to help). You may also throw a CEL when you start your car after a stall.
- think about changing your cam gear settings to -4/-1. I used to have a v390 setup with HKS 272 cams set to -4/-1 on the stock clutch, and I never had stalling issues ... not with AC ... not with AC and lights ... never. IMO the -2/-2 or -3/-3 settings are more prone to stall (I have been in XEDE/Xflashed cars with these settings).
The startup issue(s) after stalling or in really cold weather does seem to be a XEDE related problem, as my car starts up better w/out the XEDE in these situations.
I had to learn to drive my current setup (Exedy Twin Metallic clutch, HKS 280 cams, etc.) and can drive it w/out stalling 99% of the time now, but it takes a lot more skill than the stock and v390 setups did.
l8r)
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From: Pittsburgh & Herndon
Originally Posted by VW4life
I talked to sonny last night about this and after some thoughts I'm feeling like the -2/-2 settings are part of the problems... did you adjust the idle?
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Originally Posted by Ludikraut
I get the EXACT same thing on my current setup (which is well beyond a v390), especially the re-start issues after it has stalled. Some advice/things-to-try:
- if you stalled it, when you go to restart, feather the gas pedal while it is turning over (you may have to crank it for 4-5 seconds). After you get it running again, it will most likely want to stall again ... try running the rpms up to 2500 for a few seconds and let it slowly go back down to idle (in my case this seems to help). You may also throw a CEL when you start your car after a stall.
- think about changing your cam gear settings to -4/-1. I used to have a v390 setup with HKS 272 cams set to -4/-1 on the stock clutch, and I never had stalling issues ... not with AC ... not with AC and lights ... never. IMO the -2/-2 or -3/-3 settings are more prone to stall (I have been in XEDE/Xflashed cars with these settings).
The startup issue(s) after stalling or in really cold weather does seem to be a XEDE related problem, as my car starts up better w/out the XEDE in these situations.
I had to learn to drive my current setup (Exedy Twin Metallic clutch, HKS 280 cams, etc.) and can drive it w/out stalling 99% of the time now, but it takes a lot more skill than the stock and v390 setups did.
l8r)
- if you stalled it, when you go to restart, feather the gas pedal while it is turning over (you may have to crank it for 4-5 seconds). After you get it running again, it will most likely want to stall again ... try running the rpms up to 2500 for a few seconds and let it slowly go back down to idle (in my case this seems to help). You may also throw a CEL when you start your car after a stall.
- think about changing your cam gear settings to -4/-1. I used to have a v390 setup with HKS 272 cams set to -4/-1 on the stock clutch, and I never had stalling issues ... not with AC ... not with AC and lights ... never. IMO the -2/-2 or -3/-3 settings are more prone to stall (I have been in XEDE/Xflashed cars with these settings).
The startup issue(s) after stalling or in really cold weather does seem to be a XEDE related problem, as my car starts up better w/out the XEDE in these situations.
I had to learn to drive my current setup (Exedy Twin Metallic clutch, HKS 280 cams, etc.) and can drive it w/out stalling 99% of the time now, but it takes a lot more skill than the stock and v390 setups did.
l8r)
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I found the following on another site in a cam install instruction listing:
40. TUNING TIP: With more aggressive cams (and more overlap), you will lose vacuum. How much depends on the cams themselves. With our HKS cams, we went from about 17 in/Hg (0.6kg/cm2) at idle with the stock cams to about 14.5 in/Hg (0.5 kg/cm2). With the A/C and other accessories running and on the brakes, this could get as low as 11.5-12 in/Hg (0.40-.0.42kg/cm2). You can see how that could cause a problem with stalling.
Since the stock vacuum is on the weak side already, you may find your Evo wanting to stall at idle with aftermarket cams, particularly when driving. Letting off the gas and immediately hitting the brakes is a prime example of the most likely time this will happen (power brake booster uses vacuum to operate). You may want/need to adjust the idle up a hair and possibly add some fuel in with a management system at idle to help "catch" it before it wants to stall when you let off the gas.
The quickest way to adjust the idle is to use the idle air by-pass screw on the top/back of the throttle body. It is basically a big Phillips screw (with an o-ring around it) and it controls how much air by-passes the throttle plate at idle. Obviously, the more air allowed into the intake, the higher the idle will be. Counter-clockwise turns increase idle RPM, while clockwise turns decrease it.
We bumped our idle up to ~950RPM and added 16% fuel at 800RPM just to give it that extra little bit of help. Obviously, you will need to re-tune the rest of your fuel curve to take full advantage of the new cams.
40. TUNING TIP: With more aggressive cams (and more overlap), you will lose vacuum. How much depends on the cams themselves. With our HKS cams, we went from about 17 in/Hg (0.6kg/cm2) at idle with the stock cams to about 14.5 in/Hg (0.5 kg/cm2). With the A/C and other accessories running and on the brakes, this could get as low as 11.5-12 in/Hg (0.40-.0.42kg/cm2). You can see how that could cause a problem with stalling.
Since the stock vacuum is on the weak side already, you may find your Evo wanting to stall at idle with aftermarket cams, particularly when driving. Letting off the gas and immediately hitting the brakes is a prime example of the most likely time this will happen (power brake booster uses vacuum to operate). You may want/need to adjust the idle up a hair and possibly add some fuel in with a management system at idle to help "catch" it before it wants to stall when you let off the gas.
The quickest way to adjust the idle is to use the idle air by-pass screw on the top/back of the throttle body. It is basically a big Phillips screw (with an o-ring around it) and it controls how much air by-passes the throttle plate at idle. Obviously, the more air allowed into the intake, the higher the idle will be. Counter-clockwise turns increase idle RPM, while clockwise turns decrease it.
We bumped our idle up to ~950RPM and added 16% fuel at 800RPM just to give it that extra little bit of help. Obviously, you will need to re-tune the rest of your fuel curve to take full advantage of the new cams.
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Originally Posted by Dustin@Vishnu
I personally run -3,-3 with 272s. My idle is set at right around 1000, and I don't have any problems with stalling or rough idle.
Does the Octane level matter? I know in CA you only have 91 Octance. I am running Sunoco 94 Octane. Is that why you are at -3,-3....and if so....why wasn't -3,-3 recommended to me?
Just trying to find the recommended setting.
Thanks.


