my 272/272s don't stall. Strong idle. I tuned a bunch of the lump out as well and got back half my vacumn that I lost with the cams.

 

Hey man I had the exact same problem when I ran the V390 map with 272 and aftermarket turbo! I could never get the car to idle smooth or keep it from stalling! I ended up taking the Xede out and just ran the flashed ecu with safc2! Now my car doesn't stall out on me in traffic and I vent my BOV into the atomsphere.

 

What intake did you have on your aftermarket ECU? If it wasn't stock, the XEDE base maps would have to be changed. Because there is nothing inherently strange about the way the XEDE controls fuel and spark for it to not able to do something a reflash/S-afc combo can do.

Shiv

 

264's!!! man!!

 

Some insight as to how would help this thread.

 

I understand that tweaking cam gears can definately help recover vacuum. However most camps outside of Vishnu claim CG are a waste and a solid idle can be achieved without them.

Now I have asked shiv about cam gears and he tells me that those other folks are wrong and that CG allow you to tune your powerband and adjust your idle quality. You simply cannot tune vacuum using fuel and timing. You can bandaid it with a higher than normal idle but thats about it.

I guess you can call me cheap. I want to buy cams and cam gears, install them, and not have to dyno tune the car. The V390 map should be close enough for the average guy following the standard Vishnu upgrade path. With both gears set at -2 or -3 I would expect a solid idle.

I'm close enough to AMS to install the parts and then take it to them for a tune but I dont feel I should have to dyno tune my car to get a solid idle.

 

The reason I'm pointing to the vaccumm line was, 2 weeks ago, Mitsubishi Hayward fixed my synchros (5th). They replaced all the synchros under warranty (lucky me even with those cams). Now it's stalling pretty bad. It was working ok when Shiv and those guys upgraded my cams and cam gears. The cam gears were set at -3/-2, something like this. This was way back in March 2005. Everything works ok. No stalling. Now the grind comes in. I took it to the dealer. The dealer fixes my synchros and when I looked at the vaccumm lines, the mechanic just cuts the vaccumm lines and reconnect it using the vaccumm connectors. After a drive out to the dealer, the car wasn't stalling but I'm getting a P0401 (insufficient EGR recirculation). Now this starts to worry me. I keep getting that service engine code after a few resets from the scanner. Now I traced the vaccumm lines under the intake manifold and TB and I saw two vaccumm lines under the throthle body that was cut. So I reconnect it and now the stalling is so worse. As suspected, not enough vaccumm. If I break hard comming from the fourth gear or any gear and put it to neutral after a clutch release, the motor dies. This is a very dangerous scenario.
So what do you guys think. It was working ok after it went out from Shivs shop last March. It's the freakin vaccumm. I have tried the idle screw adjustments lot and it doesn't make any difference.

 

For what it is worth, my cam gears are dead on at -2, -2 now and the idle screw is pretty much turned as far as it will go. I definately notice the difference in the idle, it is no where near as lopey as before my accident with the hex wrench. So take a look at your tension on the timing belt and your cam gear settings. My car hasn't stalled this week at all, and I have been driving back and forth to work every day. I am still using the V390 map straight from the website.

 

I'm not sure where you come up with the "most camps" statement. Yes, it is possible to run the cams straight up, but to fine-tune the powerband and idle characteristics, adj. cam gears are required. When Martin at AMS was tuning my HKS 280s, we tried all kinds of different cam gear settings, with noticeable impacts to spoolup and topend.

I used to run my 272s set to -4/-1 and I never had an issue stalling, and unless you were listening for it, you couldn't really tell that the car was cammed. On the other hand, I have been in a v390 car that was set to either -3/-2 or -2/-2 (can't remember now), and it did stall in traffic with both the HID and AC on.

The off-the-shelf v390 map, should be good for any of the commonly used settings (0/0, -2/-2, -3/-3, -4/-1) on both the 264 and 272 setups. After I had installed the 272s, I had Shiv custom tune the setup, and the v390 map I had downloaded was already almost perfect.

l8r)

 

Hey I agree.......look what I found today:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=74284

This is very interesting stuff.

 

^^ Yep, that's what I based my 272 settings off. You should also look for the cam timing posts by Ted B ... very good info there as well.

l8r)

 

Sure, my cam gears are set at -1/+1, which made my idle pretty lumpy.

I added approx 6 degrees timing at idle that slightly tapers off back to zero at approx 1750rpm, idle, low and med load, via ECU+, you can do this via the XEDE as well.

This smoothed out my idle and gave me half of the vacumn I lost back.

I haven't touched the BISS at all, so I have not adjusted my idle speed at all.

BTW, cam gear changes can produce great results. This is what I gained from 0/0 to -1/+1:



btw, I tried -4/-1 and the car got really laggy and I lost power.

I have since increased the torque another 17wtq from more tuning: (base run is 91octane)

 

Well I have the Xedeflash and I am using a dejontool 4-inch intake with K&N cone filter with a reducer for the MAF. I made adjustments to the map but I still had the same issues. Unforuately, where I live there isn't an AWD dyno nor any good professional tuners! So I am just left with street tuning on a wideband with a few friends that help out.

 

If you are still on the stock turbo (or even a small upgrade), then I'd say go back to the stock intake. It doesn't really become a restriction until you are making more than twice the power of the stock setup. I would include the stock intake piping in that. I've looked at the way the stock intake pipe is made, and it looks like it is designed to isolate the MAF from turbo/engine movement (i.e. it has a flex section on it).

l8r)

 

I am getting cams put into my car this week. I got the HKS 272/272's with the AEM cam gears. A professional installer will do the job for me. Did you install the cams yourself?