Vishnu Cam Gear Install
I put mine in around 3 months ago. there are a couple of good threads on this, but I used the one here: http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php...3_6&tech_id=18
it worked really well, especially if you are doing cams at the same time. the biggest things that I learned are:
use plenty of long zipties, more is better in securing the timing belt and the gears.
the camgear bolts are a ***** to get off. get a good 6-point socket, preferrably in 1/2 inch and a good breaker bar. they "snap" real loud when they finally come loose. you will have to take the valve cover off to get a wrench on the cams to steady them.
I didn't buy the cambelt tension tool. purchased a 1meter stick of threaded rod, NOT from home depot, go to a real nuts and bolts store. put 3 nuts on the end and hack it off to a 14" piece. I took just over 15 minutes to release the tension. tightened a 1/4 turn and then let it sit for a couple minutes.
the biggest advice is do lots of research ahead of time and TAKE YOUR TIME....
remember, it's not a race..
it worked really well, especially if you are doing cams at the same time. the biggest things that I learned are:
use plenty of long zipties, more is better in securing the timing belt and the gears.
the camgear bolts are a ***** to get off. get a good 6-point socket, preferrably in 1/2 inch and a good breaker bar. they "snap" real loud when they finally come loose. you will have to take the valve cover off to get a wrench on the cams to steady them.
I didn't buy the cambelt tension tool. purchased a 1meter stick of threaded rod, NOT from home depot, go to a real nuts and bolts store. put 3 nuts on the end and hack it off to a 14" piece. I took just over 15 minutes to release the tension. tightened a 1/4 turn and then let it sit for a couple minutes.
the biggest advice is do lots of research ahead of time and TAKE YOUR TIME....
remember, it's not a race..
If your gears have the tiny allen head bolts you might want change them to a hex head type bolt before you install them.
They wouldn't adjust once they were on my car; the allen heads started to strip and the only way to adjust them was to take them off.
They wouldn't adjust once they were on my car; the allen heads started to strip and the only way to adjust them was to take them off.
Another thing I did just cause I'm paranoid is mark the point on the belt where the TDC tooth of the gear lines up with a paint pen. That way after you cut the tie wraps and put the new gear in you can line it back up without putting the valve cover back on.
I would also just go ahead and order 2 new bolts to attach the gear to the cams. They are cheap and good to have incase the others start to round off when removing them.
I would also just go ahead and order 2 new bolts to attach the gear to the cams. They are cheap and good to have incase the others start to round off when removing them.
Originally Posted by hotrod2448
Another thing I did just cause I'm paranoid is mark the point on the belt where the TDC tooth of the gear lines up with a paint pen. That way after you cut the tie wraps and put the new gear in you can line it back up without putting the valve cover back on.
I would also just go ahead and order 2 new bolts to attach the gear to the cams. They are cheap and good to have incase the others start to round off when removing them.
I would also just go ahead and order 2 new bolts to attach the gear to the cams. They are cheap and good to have incase the others start to round off when removing them.
as for the 2 new bolts, thats a good idea too. you don't happen to know the part number do you?
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On the allen bolts in the gears, I'm pretty sure that ARP makes some 10-32 bolts with a 12 point head on them and a much larger shoulder which should help clamping force. At the bare minimum I would go with socket head capscrews since button head do have a tendency to round out.
I also got some small spring clamps to clip on the belt and hold it up so there was no chance of the belt going slack and letting anything below the lower timing cover get out of time. I just clipped them on the belt so they pressed against the lower timing cover. That might be overkill but, I figured anything I could do to avoid having to retime the motor was worth it.
I also got some small spring clamps to clip on the belt and hold it up so there was no chance of the belt going slack and letting anything below the lower timing cover get out of time. I just clipped them on the belt so they pressed against the lower timing cover. That might be overkill but, I figured anything I could do to avoid having to retime the motor was worth it.
Originally Posted by hotrod2448
On the allen bolts in the gears, I'm pretty sure that ARP makes some 10-32 bolts with a 12 point head on them and a much larger shoulder which should help clamping force. At the bare minimum I would go with socket head capscrews since button head do have a tendency to round out.
I also got some small spring clamps to clip on the belt and hold it up so there was no chance of the belt going slack and letting anything below the lower timing cover get out of time. I just clipped them on the belt so they pressed against the lower timing cover. That might be overkill but, I figured anything I could do to avoid having to retime the motor was worth it.
I also got some small spring clamps to clip on the belt and hold it up so there was no chance of the belt going slack and letting anything below the lower timing cover get out of time. I just clipped them on the belt so they pressed against the lower timing cover. That might be overkill but, I figured anything I could do to avoid having to retime the motor was worth it.
Originally Posted by sandm
I didn't buy the cambelt tension tool. purchased a 1meter stick of threaded rod, NOT from home depot, go to a real nuts and bolts store. put 3 nuts on the end and hack it off to a 14" piece. I took just over 15 minutes to release the tension. tightened a 1/4 turn and then let it sit for a couple minutes.








