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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 05:32 PM
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Thumbs up Vishnu Cam Gear Install

Please post any pointers you may have for installing Vishnu Cam Gears. Thanks!!!
Old Mar 27, 2006 | 05:43 PM
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D-I-double T-O !!!!!
Old Mar 27, 2006 | 05:55 PM
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I put mine in around 3 months ago. there are a couple of good threads on this, but I used the one here: http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php...3_6&tech_id=18
it worked really well, especially if you are doing cams at the same time. the biggest things that I learned are:
use plenty of long zipties, more is better in securing the timing belt and the gears.
the camgear bolts are a ***** to get off. get a good 6-point socket, preferrably in 1/2 inch and a good breaker bar. they "snap" real loud when they finally come loose. you will have to take the valve cover off to get a wrench on the cams to steady them.
I didn't buy the cambelt tension tool. purchased a 1meter stick of threaded rod, NOT from home depot, go to a real nuts and bolts store. put 3 nuts on the end and hack it off to a 14" piece. I took just over 15 minutes to release the tension. tightened a 1/4 turn and then let it sit for a couple minutes.

the biggest advice is do lots of research ahead of time and TAKE YOUR TIME....
remember, it's not a race..
Old Mar 27, 2006 | 06:06 PM
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If your gears have the tiny allen head bolts you might want change them to a hex head type bolt before you install them.

They wouldn't adjust once they were on my car; the allen heads started to strip and the only way to adjust them was to take them off.
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 09:40 AM
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Thanks guys!!!
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 09:47 AM
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Another thing I did just cause I'm paranoid is mark the point on the belt where the TDC tooth of the gear lines up with a paint pen. That way after you cut the tie wraps and put the new gear in you can line it back up without putting the valve cover back on.

I would also just go ahead and order 2 new bolts to attach the gear to the cams. They are cheap and good to have incase the others start to round off when removing them.
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by hotrod2448
Another thing I did just cause I'm paranoid is mark the point on the belt where the TDC tooth of the gear lines up with a paint pen. That way after you cut the tie wraps and put the new gear in you can line it back up without putting the valve cover back on.

I would also just go ahead and order 2 new bolts to attach the gear to the cams. They are cheap and good to have incase the others start to round off when removing them.
i have yet to do my gears (sitting in the basement waiting for good weather) but i had already had the idea about the timing belt and paint pen. just makes sense. glad to see i'm not alone. don't know why it hasn't been mentioned before.

as for the 2 new bolts, thats a good idea too. you don't happen to know the part number do you?
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 10:24 AM
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Not off hand I don't. Your local Mitsu dealer should be able to look it up. I just know it is damn near impossible to find one anywere on a Saturday evening or a Sunday.
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 10:24 AM
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Someone sticky this thread, please.
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 11:01 AM
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+1
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 01:41 PM
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On the allen bolts in the gears, I'm pretty sure that ARP makes some 10-32 bolts with a 12 point head on them and a much larger shoulder which should help clamping force. At the bare minimum I would go with socket head capscrews since button head do have a tendency to round out.

I also got some small spring clamps to clip on the belt and hold it up so there was no chance of the belt going slack and letting anything below the lower timing cover get out of time. I just clipped them on the belt so they pressed against the lower timing cover. That might be overkill but, I figured anything I could do to avoid having to retime the motor was worth it.
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by hotrod2448
On the allen bolts in the gears, I'm pretty sure that ARP makes some 10-32 bolts with a 12 point head on them and a much larger shoulder which should help clamping force. At the bare minimum I would go with socket head capscrews since button head do have a tendency to round out.

I also got some small spring clamps to clip on the belt and hold it up so there was no chance of the belt going slack and letting anything below the lower timing cover get out of time. I just clipped them on the belt so they pressed against the lower timing cover. That might be overkill but, I figured anything I could do to avoid having to retime the motor was worth it.
another good idea with the spring clamps to the lower cover. as for the adjusting bolts/screws. i plan to just add a dab of loctite and torque them properly. i don't see myself chanign the timing every other day
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 07:11 PM
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Be sure to use blue loctite. Red loctite on buttonhead bolts= stripped heads.
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by sandm
I didn't buy the cambelt tension tool. purchased a 1meter stick of threaded rod, NOT from home depot, go to a real nuts and bolts store. put 3 nuts on the end and hack it off to a 14" piece. I took just over 15 minutes to release the tension. tightened a 1/4 turn and then let it sit for a couple minutes.
Do you remember the rod diameter and thread pitch?
Old Mar 29, 2006 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by hotrod2448
Be sure to use blue loctite. Red loctite on buttonhead bolts= stripped heads.
why? too strong?



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